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Exotics_Builder

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    Gerry Paquette

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MCM Ohana

MCM Ohana (6/6)

  1. Modifications: 3D printed Diolex wheels were cleaned, primered, drilled for air valves, and sprayed with Revell Chrome. The air valves were added after drying. Tires were sourced from my parts bin. Missing body-to-chassis bolts were installed using a pattern, with holes drilled, and Calibre 35 resin bolts used. The engine was assembled with additional wiring. Subsequently, a Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland 4-cylinder hop-up kit with downdraft Weber carburetors, fuel lines, and linkages was installed. Replicas and Miniatures finned brake drums were fitted and adapted for the wheels. Drum brakes were chosen instead of disk brakes to better align with the period of the vehicle. Although I am not particularly satisfied with the straight rod simulating the drive axles (without boots), I decided to leave it as is. The dashboard was detailed with instrument decals, Wizard O trim rings, and clear coat to simulate plastic covers. Additionally, a control knob and key lock for ignition were added. Different front seats from the parts bin were installed along with Gofer Racing stock-type seat belt hardware for both the front and back. Paper adhesive bandage tape was applied to the lower body to simulate the rough fiberglass texture of the actual car. Created rear MANX and front Shield emblem decals from no royalty vector image file of logos. Painted Testors Flaming Orange covered with 2 coats Tamiya Pearl Clear and finished with Testor Wet Look Clear. Mr. Hobby Black Primer was daubed onto the lower body to add more texture to the paper tape.
  2. This is the Revell Escalade Ute. It may be a good alternative as well since on the truck chassis. But I'd need to research further
  3. I have a stack of LS's in my parts boxes. Would love to get close to replicate this one I saw at Car Show last year
  4. I do not yet know. I have a 3D print Duramax in the box or could use an LS. If I do curbside (easiest option by far) only the bottom half of the engine would be visible anyway. Here is the chassis/suspension the designer Andrey Bezrodny includes.
  5. When I get to it. I've gotten the 3D printed kit from Andy Lesiak. It is curbside and I'm not sure it will be worth the effort to put in an engine bay. But the chassis/suspension with these prints (not Andy's fault it is what the 3D designer did) is not prototypical. I would like to be a bit closer to the actual vehicle with my model. The quality of Andy's prints is exceptional.
  6. I intend to use as a base for a 2023 GMC 1500 Sierra Denali. Close, but needing work. The other kit I need to pull out and check is the Revell Escalade SUV (even though curbside).
  7. Well, I'd toss the engine as it is not, in my opinion, very good. But the basics appear to be there.
  8. Haven't checked this out in detail, but would not the AMT Cadillac Escalade Pickup be a better starting point? https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/6/0/0/1410600-63-instructions.pdf
  9. Just this one as far as I know. Sitting in the stash, unbuilt.
  10. Even though an MPC 69 Camaro (optional engine in some kits) and the 1969 Firebird, I got my engine a few years back from Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland. MCW Finishes appears to offer one. You might give it a try https://mcwfinishes.com/shop/ols/products/pontiac-ohc-6-cyl-motor-125-scale Here's mt Replica and Miniature version. The Model Car Garage PE Set has the Sprint hood script.
  11. Well, these are what are respectively in original 63 Bonneville Convertible, 64 Tempest Convertible, and 65 GTO. My 64 Grand Prix kit does not ave anything like that and my 65 Bonneville and Grand Prix Prestige kits do not as well
  12. Well, it may be as stated. But, I'm looking at a photo of an LS with a similar "bauble" and it looks more like the accumulator/dryer can for the A/C system
  13. Well, the set from the Coupster parts kit is on its it way to him. Spoke about my concerns. Hope it lasts.
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