Exotics_Builder

Did you search the forum? http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/111739-warped-hood/?tab=comments#comment-1598718

Revell did the best detailed Rally Stratos I've seen back in the late 70's. I'm 2000 miles away from my stash for 2 more weeks, so can't pull it off the shelf to photo. I do have a couple of the Fujimi kits, the "street" red car version and the one on the right in the two photos above.

Pretty much what I know on these. On the Roaster, Revell's agreement with Stacey David lapsed. But, it could resurrect in another form with tweaks?

Well, the technique came from armor, aircraft and train modelers, where a lot of matte or flat finishes are used. Since matte/flat paints are not smooth, the technique is to apply clear gloss, polish it, decal it and then apply semi-gloss or flat clear to suit the finish you want. In one case, there was a single small decal that I used Solvaset on it a couple of times to get it to nestle in. It was a relatively smooth surface (firewall)

Quite the case. I did the Fujimi 635 Schnitzer some years back. That had decals on top of decals. Even though the display case was not in direct sunlight and had a door, those decals started yellowing and a couple crinkled after a couple of years. After that, I always cleared.

True, but I clear over sponsors to protect them as some decals age worse than others. Also, most modern race cars use wraps, so, as you stated, depends on the look you're after. I have some decals (usually kit) are quite thick, which may also require adjusting your technique for look.

This applies for gloss finishes only. I usually decal between clear coats. That is, I will usually clear coat a base coat first, if it is a pearl or metallic. I will polish that coat out and then clean it before applying decals. If the base coat is non-pearl or metallic, I will not apply a clear yet but polish/clean it out. After applying decals, I will put a final clear coat for extra protection. I've had bad experiences over the years with aging decals on a model or handling that affects them. So, even though not prototypical, I take the extra step of clear coating over them. But, in clear coating over decals, one needs to be sure the clear does not attack the decals. I usually use Testor's Wet Look Clear or Tamiya TS13, decanted and airbrushed, with misted coats applied before a wet coat. Then final polishing and waxing. For flat/matte finishes, the technique is totally different to avoid silvering.

Looking great. As already queried, are side drafts in the future?

Same experience, about 24 years ago. Went on one model and never tried again

The 62, 63 and 64 SS Impalas had the engine turned aluminum (ETA) feature. And no model manufacturer has included anything to replicate. VRM was looking into doing ETA decals, but not yet and probably too large for this body trim. I was experimenting on doing a decal to mimic this a couple of years ago. But it is on the shelf until we complete our move. The approach I was looking at was using BMF as a base and a gray scale accent on clear decal sheet. I did not get to the point of reducing a prototype to see how it would look. In 1/25 scale, I fear they may appear as dots.

I wouldn't hold my breath on that one, sadly.

Model Factory Hiro does a multimedia Lusso, but at a steep price ($275):

Certainly looks more like a C6 than a 60's vintage Powerglide.

Of course, there are companies modifying LR's with LS engines, upgraded suspension and interiors

YEP!!!

Yes. Misshapen to say the least. But they corrected reasonably quickly and actually sent replacement bodies/hoods to those who already bought. But, one had to be careful for a few years after if picking one up at a swap meet.

Precisely what I was thinking. I wanted roofed versions more than Spyders. I am also thinking if I could use the Fujimi F12 with some work under the 812. The big thing there is how difficult to open the hood and the changes in the engine bay to reflect the differences. I did get some detail 812 engine bay photos at a recent Ferrari Expo

Well, so far, my wallet is safe. None of these bear any interest to me. Good for others, perhaps. Glad I have a large unbuilt stash and Alpha Models is doing some interesting modern Ferraris. Was hoping Aoshima would consider expanding out their Lambo "line" with an Urus (would be interesting)

I built the Italeri version over 20 years back, before a lot of goodies were available for it. The kit built well but had some corrections needed since it was based on their previously issued 250 GTO. There was a lot of the GTO DNA in it, particularly parts of the interior and the engine. I made the corrections using parts box items and scratch built a proper air cleaner. There were a few fitment issues, but overall a good kit

Was about a month and a half ago

Yes, it is. Tamiya also released the BMW 850 from RoG. Haven't seen either in years

I then copied your reduced image (which appears a bit blurred) and printed on same paper at high quality and got this. Photo quality paper would be better, but the bitmap image, on reduction, is also an impact. If I were doing this, I would likely consider a trace in CorelDraw to a Vector image.

I copied your image and reduced it to 3% (rough sizing, not accurate) and printed as gray scale on the old Laserjet and got this. CorelDraw is on the home computer in WA state. Did this test in 5 minutes. Not the best paper (also at home) and draft mode

No interest whatsoever. Other things on my plate once the "shop" reopens late May

X2