Exotics_Builder

Catching up on what was acquired over the last six weeks. Unpacked them at the new house. First kit acquisitions: Next, door prizes from club meetings and events: Finally, some Jimmy Flintstone resin that will complement some ideas I have:

John, if I recollect, they were sized for Detail Master ignition wiring. I'd have to dig some out of the boxes yet unpacked to do more dimensioning

Off the top of my head, Scale Motorsports https://www.scalemotorsport.com/displays.html Mirror base, rotating displays can be found in craft stores, but you need to elevate the model for a good view. An aftermarket seller used to have an elevated acrylic display stand that has angled mirror in it, but I haven't seen him advertise for several years

Revell only bought the stock, not the molds. I don't recollect who got possession (if anyone) of the molds

I have 6 of the ones in your photo unbuilt, plus several others such as the Stratos, Dino 246 GTS, 365 GTB coupe and spyder, BMW 635s, etc Away from the stash for 4 more days so can't photo

Another thing I have done to get a colored clear is use the base color mixed into a clear paint. You need to experiment with it for the amount of transparency, but might be worth considering

Might I suggest using SMS Clear Carbon Fiber over the base color as a start.

Did you search the forum? http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/111739-warped-hood/?tab=comments#comment-1598718

Revell did the best detailed Rally Stratos I've seen back in the late 70's. I'm 2000 miles away from my stash for 2 more weeks, so can't pull it off the shelf to photo. I do have a couple of the Fujimi kits, the "street" red car version and the one on the right in the two photos above.

Pretty much what I know on these. On the Roaster, Revell's agreement with Stacey David lapsed. But, it could resurrect in another form with tweaks?

Well, the technique came from armor, aircraft and train modelers, where a lot of matte or flat finishes are used. Since matte/flat paints are not smooth, the technique is to apply clear gloss, polish it, decal it and then apply semi-gloss or flat clear to suit the finish you want. In one case, there was a single small decal that I used Solvaset on it a couple of times to get it to nestle in. It was a relatively smooth surface (firewall)

Quite the case. I did the Fujimi 635 Schnitzer some years back. That had decals on top of decals. Even though the display case was not in direct sunlight and had a door, those decals started yellowing and a couple crinkled after a couple of years. After that, I always cleared.

True, but I clear over sponsors to protect them as some decals age worse than others. Also, most modern race cars use wraps, so, as you stated, depends on the look you're after. I have some decals (usually kit) are quite thick, which may also require adjusting your technique for look.

This applies for gloss finishes only. I usually decal between clear coats. That is, I will usually clear coat a base coat first, if it is a pearl or metallic. I will polish that coat out and then clean it before applying decals. If the base coat is non-pearl or metallic, I will not apply a clear yet but polish/clean it out. After applying decals, I will put a final clear coat for extra protection. I've had bad experiences over the years with aging decals on a model or handling that affects them. So, even though not prototypical, I take the extra step of clear coating over them. But, in clear coating over decals, one needs to be sure the clear does not attack the decals. I usually use Testor's Wet Look Clear or Tamiya TS13, decanted and airbrushed, with misted coats applied before a wet coat. Then final polishing and waxing. For flat/matte finishes, the technique is totally different to avoid silvering.

Looking great. As already queried, are side drafts in the future?

Same experience, about 24 years ago. Went on one model and never tried again

The 62, 63 and 64 SS Impalas had the engine turned aluminum (ETA) feature. And no model manufacturer has included anything to replicate. VRM was looking into doing ETA decals, but not yet and probably too large for this body trim. I was experimenting on doing a decal to mimic this a couple of years ago. But it is on the shelf until we complete our move. The approach I was looking at was using BMF as a base and a gray scale accent on clear decal sheet. I did not get to the point of reducing a prototype to see how it would look. In 1/25 scale, I fear they may appear as dots.

I wouldn't hold my breath on that one, sadly.

Model Factory Hiro does a multimedia Lusso, but at a steep price ($275):

Certainly looks more like a C6 than a 60's vintage Powerglide.

Of course, there are companies modifying LR's with LS engines, upgraded suspension and interiors

YEP!!!

Yes. Misshapen to say the least. But they corrected reasonably quickly and actually sent replacement bodies/hoods to those who already bought. But, one had to be careful for a few years after if picking one up at a swap meet.

Precisely what I was thinking. I wanted roofed versions more than Spyders. I am also thinking if I could use the Fujimi F12 with some work under the 812. The big thing there is how difficult to open the hood and the changes in the engine bay to reflect the differences. I did get some detail 812 engine bay photos at a recent Ferrari Expo

Well, so far, my wallet is safe. None of these bear any interest to me. Good for others, perhaps. Glad I have a large unbuilt stash and Alpha Models is doing some interesting modern Ferraris. Was hoping Aoshima would consider expanding out their Lambo "line" with an Urus (would be interesting)