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Exotics_Builder

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Everything posted by Exotics_Builder

  1. And he was not referring to the two builds, Ford truck and Caddy. Just the Revell's first Foose pre-decorated model glue kits, complete with Foose-created paint schemes, wheel designs and special Foose renderings used only on the Revell box art part of the announcement.
  2. No. The pre-painted are simple builds with less parts. But still glue. It is possible they could be snap, but he referenced these: http://www.revell.com/model-kits/cars/85-4358.html#.VaaLuDDJDIU
  3. From what we heard at our last club meeting, the delay was due to coordinating the release with Foose. The Revell person who attended our club meeting was not involved in the survey and didn't have vote specifics, but said he was told the Ford, Caddy and Imposter were the high vote getters, but didn't know more than that. On the Foose collection, they will be in the pre-painted series similar to the Camaro ZL1 and upcoming C7. Given the Foose popularity, it is hoped this will get more people into modeling and get them to eventually try more detailed models. Also, for those of us who look forward to models such as the Model A and others, sales from these help funding for other endeavors.
  4. I passed the spare engine on to a friend in Quebec. It also is a nice engine with an automatic instead of manual. That makes it more useful for a lot of options, as I see it.
  5. This event seems to have a lot of repeat vehicles. So I only went for ones that I don't recollect seeing or get better photos of others. http://s150.photobucket.com/user/exotics_builder/library/2015-07-10%20Rolling%20Meadows%20Cruise%20Night
  6. I have almost always used Tamiya primer, but sometimes Plastikote. I admit to being a coward based on experience with Testor's previous enamel primers. Even thought they told me a few years back at IHOBBY that they corrected the problem in the primers, I just won't touch them.
  7. Dzuz fasteners? There are PE sets for them, including ones that separate (since they are spring controlled, not easy to have working ).
  8. Yes, but I wouldn't try to fit them in too many times, they are fragile. T2M makes an interesting set that I am looking into getting that may be better.
  9. Calling it just about done. It just needs a couple of clean up tweaks, including adding the heater hoses and figuring out how to reinstall the rear view mirror which fell out. This is my first MOPAR and is for the GTR Model Club 2015 theme, 100 years of Dodge. Since I am not even close to being knowledgeable on this car, I did the usual research channels, including the internet. However, several knowledgeable people contributed to getting as close as possible to the real car. These include Jim Brooks, Dave Greene, John Walczak, Bill Goldbach and Billy Mayberry. The model is based on Revell’s Hemi Dart kit in 1/25 scale. Allowing two build options, the kit did not provide all the interior and engine bay options to fully replicate a 68. The body in my kit had a slight warp that I could not fully work out, even after some Dremel grinding and heat finessing. The Hemi Cross Ram manifold was two heights, instead of flat across and needed adjustment. I wasn’t excited about the rear valence and bumper pieces, as I could not get a tight enough fit. And it was a royal pain to get the chassis mated to the body/interior because of the width of the Hemi Engine. I basically used the Revell kit, including decals, and added: A few decals from the Revell 68 Firebird drag racer as I did not use them when I built a stock kit; Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland Shapes set to fit the hole made in excluding the heater; Competition Resins Dodge A100 seats and drilled brackets for the correct racing seats; Model Car Garage: Stewart Warner Tach for the steering column mounted version; Seat belt hardware; Mesh screen; Wire Looms; and Exterior Door Locks RB Motion Hemi plug boots; B-N-L Resin dip stick; Detail Master Hood Pin set; and Morgan Automotive Detail 8 cylinder distributor. The interior needed to be further gutted to reflect the race car, so I shaved the window cranks and rear armrests. I added the seat belt front window openers including both upper and lower snaps. I used Evergreen strip to blank out the radio and heater, then detailed and added the Competition Resin Seats. Note, on the real car, only the driver side had seat belts, and they were lap belts only. Shots of the interior before placing in the body: In the engine bay: Removed the heater motor head and replaced with the circular piece from R&MofM; Added brackets for the rear hood pins; Added the front and rear hood pins from Detail Master (yes they can actually function but are fragile and SO TINY); Used Evergreen strip for the aluminum master cylinder offset plate and cut off the vacuum booster from the kit piece; Used wire to simulate the tube and rubber pieces of the brake lines in the engine bay; and Added a voltage regulator and wiring and other details. On the engine: Assembled the kit version and corrected the intake manifold; Used carbs from the parts box that were more detailed than the kit supplied; Cut off the kit distributor cap and replaced with the MAD cap and wires (I kept the distributor base because it has the drive for the mechanical tach; Drilled out the plug boot points on the valve covers and with the RB Motion boots and then wired the engine; Ran fuel lines and linkage to the carbs; De-chromed and drilled out the carb velocity stacks and added mesh screen and locking nuts; and Added the B-N-L resin dip stick, but it is almost invisible because of the engine width. Body mods were very minor. I used R&MofM pieces to cover the wiper mount points (No wipers on the race car which also means don’t add the wiper motor the kit provides). I crafted a cover plate for where the side view mirror would be. Here is the (almost) finished model:
  10. YES! YES! YES!! I do have the Italeri 250 GTB and a resin Lusso, but a Tamiya version would be SUPER!!
  11. Jonathon hit it right on the head. And, yes, many of us have had to deal with deformed bodies stuffed into US boxes. Revell explained that if they can fit in a US box, it can be done much cheaper. If a bigger box is needed, price goes up and could negate the benefit. About three years ago, when RoG was looking at reissuing Italeri's Ferrari 250GT, I brought US Revell my 250GT from the "stash" so they could determine if they could US box it (I live only 11 miles from their HQ). The answer was no because of how the sprue trees were structured. But it became moot when RoG and Italeri didn't work out a deal and the reissue faded away.
  12. I think it is a great idea. I have adapted wheels to different mounts, but I'd rather spend the time elsewhere. And, yes, you can get Fujimi/Aoshima and Tamiya adapters, but it would be nice to not have to deal with those and also eliminate Revell of Germany's odd wheel setup.
  13. This is the last WIP update as I am starting the final assembly. Engine mounted to chassis. I oversized the wing nuts on the carburetors to accentuate them,
  14. HLJ seems to be slipping on new stuff lately. I wish Hobby Search offered a Private Warehouse option as well. I suspect you're into the Porsches. I am not. But it is nice that this type of kit is being produced.
  15. Already out in Europe. I THINK the Porsche is September in Europe and, perhaps, November here (in RoG box).
  16. http://s150.photobucket.com/user/exotics_builder/library/2015-06-28%20Car%20Shows
  17. I asked and they are considering it. Not this year though. They got enough to catch up on.
  18. Would have been nice, but it sounds like they are coming soon.
  19. The Porsche 918 contained parts for both the street and race version. Each kit will be unique and will initially be in the RoG box only. Revell USA is looking at boxing the street in a USA box, but not yet definitive. In the picture with the wheels tree, the upper set is the street and lower set the race. Again, each kit is unique and will be race or street.
  20. I have included here since it relates to model information, not the club meeting. Revell stopped by our GTR Model Car Club meeting last night and brought some built ups and test shots. Sadly, I only had my cell phone camera so I don’t have the greatest pictures. Brought to our meeting were built ups of the Starsky and Hutch Ford and BMW I8. A test shot sample of the Porsche 918 was also brought. The BMW I8 looked pretty good, and has engine detail (for what it is). The doors can be posed open or closed. Apparently it will come to the USA only in the Revell of Germany box. The Starsky and Hutch built up is not the box art model. The delay has apparently been with the Chinese partner on correcting issues. The built up does not have the fixed rear side glass, but it is supposedly included.
  21. THANK YOU both! I have a Lindberg kit and it will likely be sacrificed to the 56.
  22. I am not really knowledgeable on Fords (or Mopars either). The AMT 56 Ford chassis leaves much to be desired given its age. Would the current Revell 57 Ford chassis be correct for a 56? If so, has anyone tried to fit with the AMT 56? Thanks,
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