Exotics_Builder

Looking forward to wheels and tires. Your castings are high quality! Thanks

The interior is just about done. I need to touch up the seat belt webbing a bit and keep the dust off. For the interior, I used the basic Revell parts and then scratch made some vinyl floor mats using a pattern I found on the web and then printing on my color LaserJet. I used cloth bandage tape for the seatbelt webbing, painted flat black. Model Car Garage GM seat belt latching was used. Revell does not provide any wood grain for the console or dash center area. In researching, this appears to have been a base option. I decided to spice it up with wood graining. I had a Fujimi wood grain decal close enough to the burl effect, so applied it. I also added Microscale silver decal lines to the console edges to reflect what the 1:1 cars have. Originally I was using Meridian Turquoise, but it looked too dark to me. Since I had a paint blurp on the hood, I decided to strip the color and go to Mayfair Maize. Need to finish off the exterior, plumb the engine and assemble. Should be ready in time for the August 3 GTR Summer Meltdown.

I've been to their offices a couple of times. Revell, here, is just corporate offices. including design teams. There is no manufacturing here. They do have a storage area where they have some kits. This is where they go for customer service parts they send out to us. The hobby shops around here that are left do not carry a lot of detail stuff either. As Harry said, there is no knock your socks off place left.

If you are staying in Elk Grove, there is Des Plaines Hobbies in Des Plaines. Main focus is trains, but they do carry car plastic and have a large paint selection. There is also a shop in Mundelein. The closest Hobbytown to Elk Grove is the one in Schaumburg. I haven't been to the Saint Charles one, but other CRAS in Miniature members speak highly of it. There also is one in Northbrook that has a big auto model section. There is also America's best train shop in Itasca, but I haven't been by there in years.

A black hole over Iowa. That's about right

Super. I have two cans left. I do decant it though and airbrush it.

I am in the same boat also. In addition getting ready to move. When I look at the stash I have acquired and my build rate (even allowing for retirement), I made the decision to hold back what I buy to what I really would treasure to build. Even culling out the the stash I have over 400 unbuilt kits (I know a piker to many). But I have also have a rash of HO stuff still sitting in the boxes and a layout only drafted on the computer. I have previous issues of a lot of stuff being reissued, so no desire to increase shelf space. So I have been cherry picking the interesting stuff (like the Tamiya LaFerrari) and adding some aftermarket sets (like MCG PE and Aoshima wheels). If a lot of us do this (and have been blessed to amass a stash) or wind up hoarding our dollars, that makes it more difficult to have large sells of any release, new or reissue. When I interviewed Revell folks a couple of years ago, a couple of really big sellers were the 49 Merc custom, Snap Ferrari Enzo, and snap Camaro (Concept one if I recollect). I think a lot of the reasons mentioned for price creep have already been stated in this thread and contribute to some degree. Remember, the model manufacturer gets the wholesale (adjusted by any volume discounts). They would have to cover: R&D Design Administrative Tooling Manufacturing Licensing Distribution and shipping Advertising Taxes Customer Service Goodwill and promotions Profit etc. The retailer then marks up. I would submit Hobby Lobby and Michaels are still making some profit with the discount coupons. A LHS would have a different pricing model than a franchise (like Hobbytown USA) or a chain (like Hobby Lobby). I'm also sure that there are segments where price can be inflated because of subject. For example is an IPhone really worth the several hundred dollar price? If you think so you buy, else you seek alternatives. When I talk to folks who are into military, aircraft or ships, they sort of chuckle on pricing as they have been hit much harder. Same with trains, particularly certain scales. I guess the only time we really have to worry about pricing is if Gordon Gekko becomes chairman and CEO of a model company

Nice job. I love the HRE wheels as well, even though they are the wrong lug pattern. Hoping there will be aftermarket wheel sets for the LaFerrari as a couple were done for the Enzo.

Yes it is still around. New president in place. Meetings still the 3rd Saturday of the month in Bensenville. In the Northwest suburbs you also have GTR and CARS in Miniature. GTR is more focused on exotics/racing but accepts all modeling. CARS is slightly larger and more generally automotive focused. They respectively meet the 1st and 2nd Saturdays of the month in Crystal Lake. I am a member of all three, so can answer any further questions. Thanks,

http://s150.photobucket.com/user/exotics_builder/library/2014-06-18%20Car%20Show%20Pix

While visiting extended family that retired to Mountain Home Arkansas, the local paper announced a town festival in (of all places) a town named Gassville. Included was a car show. It wasn't large, an organizer said some people backed out because of the rain threat (four hours after we left, there were heavy downpours although the severe weather was further south). Anyway, here is the link to the photo album: http://s150.photobucket.com/user/exotics_builder/library/2014-06-07%20Gassville%20Car%20Show

This way to the album:

Chuck is right on. I went downstairs and checked. The engine is what I think was called the modular V-8 in 4.6 liter version from Mustang Cobras (I am not well versed in Ford engines). It has a manual transmission that looks like a Tremec

As replied, it does not. There are the Testor and Fujimi variants that can still be had.

Based on your photo, you're looking for a 365 Daytona, not a modern Ferrari. To get what you want, you'd need the engine, drive train and chassis. That's a good part of any kit. I suspect you would need to get a whole kit, not just the parts you need. Good Luck!

You're right on. The 612 would be a better choice given the longer wheelbase.

As stated above. But, if you are adapting to American "iron", you'll need to consider adapting the transaxle (which are almost always independent rear) to a solid axle or add a full independent suspension as well. The Revell Ferrari California (8-cylinder engine) or 599 GTB (12 cylinder) would be good starting points if you want a modern engine. If you want to be more period focused, the 365 GTB would be a good choice. Beware that a lot of front engine exotic kits with transaxles have simplified suspensions since they have enclosed bottoms for aerodynamic purposes. I think it would be helpful to detail out a little more about what you are trying to accomplish.

http://s150.photobucket.com/user/exotics_builder/library/2014-05-03%20Super%20Car%20Saturday

It is a Euro-spec car. So, if you are building a non-US version, it is pretty dead-on. The only noticeable inaccuracy is the wheel ribs are too flat to the edge. They should be a bit concave. But, in reality, most people won't notice. For US spec, I filled in the side "dot" lights and altered the front turn signals. There are a few more touches that I will refer to on the next build update. The KA PE set gives you the side marker lamps and some other pieces that will help detail it. I think you can still get it. Do NOT go for the Acu-Stion version as there is very little useable.

This is being done as part of GTR Modelers’ 2014 theme of Pony Cars. I decided to do something a bit different and do a Pontiac Firebird (based on the Revell kit). Instead of the V8, I elected to make it an OHC six Sprint. To do that, I got Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland OHC Pontiac Six that is based on the MPC engine. Norm includes a predrilled distributor as well. I have just started on the engine and painted it with Testor’s Pontiac Engine Blue: I chose Scale Finishes OEM Pontiac color Meridian Turquoise for something a little different. The body needed only minor cleanup, but I did add additional ledge area for the rear panel to ensure it glued well. Upon test assembly, it did not appear the chassis could be put in with the rear panel already glued in place. So I decided to play it safe. For the hood, I got a flat Firebird hood from Scale Equipment Limited. I cleaned it up and added the kit tachometer to it. Here’s the painted body pre-polishing: I am still debating whether to clear coat first or just polish out the color coat. I usually clear coat to add extra protection to the finish (assuming the paint is not a base coat/clear coat option). The hood has some dirt specs in that will require some additional work. I have the chassis about 80% complete, still needing to get any changes the engine might require and then assemble. I am not getting carried away on super-detailing here or the engine, as time and circumstances don’t permit. The interior is pretty much as provided in the Revell kit. I went for a black interior and used the kit instrument decals and some painting to get this far. One thing Revell does not include is the wood trim on the dash and console. Doing some research, the Firebird could be had without the wood trim, but I wasn’t able to clarify what trim levels and most cars I’ve seen had the trim. So I dug out some Fujimi wood trim decals that most closely matched the real car, made templates and applied them. I also applied the polished trim on the console sides. Given that most cars of this area had vinyl floor mats, I found a photo online, made floor pan templates, adapted the photos using CorelDraw and printed on my Color Laserjet. Need to keep moving on this as there are about eight more weeks to get this ready.

I bought this when the EM series first came out in the late 1980’s. I started on it in 2000 with some work on the body and then put it back in the stash. Last year I decided to resurrect it and finish it for the Ferrari Expo 2014. Well, some things interfered and I’m still working on it. On the body, I cleaned it up and did the minor conversion to make it a US spec car. I wound up getting a KA models PE set for this, and, of all wonders, it includes PE side marker lights. I applied Tamiya Chrome Yellow because I didn’t want to open a new bottle of Cobra Colors Giallo Modena. Up to this point the body is thus: The engine is mostly assembled. For those who have never done a Fujimi EM Series kit, the exhaust headers on this were individual and were a bear to assemble and mount. I wired the distributor and mounted to the chassis. Still more to do, but this is so far: The interior is pretty much assembled. I still need to add some backing to the door pockets. I detailed out the dash and did seat belts. I decided to keep the seats stock rather than craft up Daytona seats. The dash is a suede material. I found most options used for seats or carpeting was not giving the right look. So I painted the dash semi-gloss black. I then trimmed the bristles of a ¼ inch brush to about 3/8 inch long. I first stippled on flat black paint and then lightly stippled on some NATO Black (a very dark grey). The effect looks pretty good, but future efforts will improve my technique here. I also made floor well templates and crafted up some floor mats using CorelDraw and printing on my Color Laserjet. Next steps are to clear the body; assemble the engine compartment; assemble the front compartment; assemble the trunk area; finish the wheels/tires and put it all together.

Got my Meng Ford F350 kit. Didn't think another photo was needed.

Or use a 1/24th motor in a 1/25 kit.

It might help to get a little more info. Is this a static rocket? That is one that is for display only? If yes, are you looking at a customized scheme or building a NASA/military rocket? Or are you doing one that is to launch, such as an Estes? There are likely different answers based on intent.