Steven Zimmerman

........Black , 'cuz black doesn't show the 'Cheeseburgers in Paradise' stains.......................(ya had ta BE there)..GRIN

I say yes,here's what happened to me. I entered a local IPMS show many(14 or so) years ago,with what I thought was a pretty good model-65 Chevelle 2 door phantom delivery based on the old AMT 65 elky,all mods scratchbuilt by me,on a scratchbuilt/kitbashed frame,,paint polished to a nice smooth shine,etc etc....zilch,nada,no trophy,did not even place ,I figured "Oh well,so much for THAT".....Brought it back the next year SAME judges gave me first place,against better competition.....Why?....I asked the judge the same question....His answer? 'Well,Steve-this year we were smart enough to read the 3X5 cards you had listing all your modifications. I said "You didn't read them last year?"...."Naw",he said....we thought it came outta the box that way".................'Z'

I've done this countless times.....Due to the nature of my builds (lotsa chopped roofs,with flush fitting glass) ,I have to cut and bend glass to fit. I've started as low as 1000 grit,and worked my way through the polishing pads to 4000,and then go to the Novus. Make sure you support the glass ,either on your palm,fingers,or a piece of heavy foam rubber,or you will get stress cracks,and once those show up,your 'glass is trash (been there done that)....Bending clear plastic windows; now that's a whole 'nuther story.........theZman

Sharp looking build,btw.... This illustrates just how nice this kit is. It looks to me like the only items Randy added to the stock kit were wheels,tires,an air cleaner,and some skillfull detailing....Other than that,(from what I can see)....everything you see,comes in the box!I'm a kit bash builder; most of the stuff I do has parts from MANY other kits (lotta resin too ) and this kit is the closest i've ever come to building box stock....(Can't live with the wheels/tires,tho.......)......Steve Zimmerman aka the'Z'man....

Very nice,clean build!..I think the street machine version made a LOT of sense;it represented a 'back halved ' car,which was what a lot of 1/1 builders were doing at the time. The only thing I felt was 'off' was the lack of tube headers. BTW,I have about 15 of these in my stash,one of the best frames out there for 50's cars. Pretty much a drop in for trucks of that era too,and the wheelbase is easily adjustable,because the frame rails are parallel..........'Z'

What a coincidance...I was just looking at that mag this week end,and that'un jumped out at me....NICE job !

While the paint may not be what you wanted,that's STILL a pretty good lookin truck.

This is just plain BAD !..are you going with a chin spoiler?

WOW !......32 speeds?---must spend ALL DAY shifting(GRIN).Nice job,Mister Kren-cool color and wheel choice,and GREAT job on the wood grain.........'Z'

I did 1/1 custom painting for 30 years,and used just about every airbrush out there-single action and double action- I ended up using the double all the time for murals and fades,highlights,etc.....but when I paint plastic (or resin,which I do a LOT).....I always find myself coming back to my old Paasche single action. I found I could do everything I wanted to do with it; it was the 'best' tool for me. I think my point is -Use whatever works for ya,if you're satisfied with the results you're getting now.....why change ? I think some people search and search for the perfect 'miracle cure' solution,when the problem is in their technique-(If you don't know how to paint,or your technique is sloppy,a better/differant airbrush won't make you a better painter.'nuff said. BTW Tip for cleaning airbrush- Go to your auto supply store and buy a can of spray carb cleaner,and spray it through your brush when you're done;stick the nozzle (with that long thin red tube thingie in the paint oriface of your gun and spray while releasing air for about 10 secs....whambam,gun is clean as a whistle ! I used to disassemble my brushes after every paint session;Istill do but find there is no reason to that stuff dissolves ALL paint residue in the gun,and as far as I can tell,it doesn't deteriorate any intrenal parts (like that 'lil 'O' ring) ..... Works to clean any residue off the outside of the tool also..............

Boy,that'd make a neat pro touring 'stang.....

WE WANT MORE/ uh,we want more pics(GRIN).......

I agree it looks a little awkward,but I can see several ways to rectify this. (1) chop the top. (2) raise the rear deck,starting at the rear of the cab about 1/4/3/16" and gradually bringing it down to the original trunk about 2/3 of the way down. (3) cutting at the base of the cab under the rear window,extending to about 3/4 inch behind the side windows and vertically behind side windows to the horizontal part of the top and pulling the rear window area back at the bottom,increasing the rake of the rear window,and blending it in with a gentle radius wher this piece meets the rear deck.This would require small tringular filler pieces behind the side windows,and a rectangular piece below the rear window.... (4) a pie slice of the body starting from about the rear door line and gradually increasing to about a 1/4 -3/8 " through the hood/nose (5)............a combo of all 4(GRIN) Of course,you could shorten it through the front fenders also,something like the old Bantams....OR leave it like it is,its still NEET !

Sorry,that should have read'carve it away FROM the master and start over'....

The molds break down ,and are good for only so many castings,depending on how smooth the master was , how well the mold was made/thickness and quality of the rubber, how well the mold was designed/depth of undercuts, how easily casting pulls from mold, care caster uses in casting, how long he lets the casting set up, proper use of release agent,proper care and storage of the mold,and just plain LUCK....I've seen many castings on the market where it was obvious the mold was shot,and should have been thrown out.I've seen molds still good after 50/60 castings,others gone to pot after 10. As to Masters,some get sent back to the master builder and the first 'good' casting out of the mold is saved for future molds,some casters keep the master; this is generally an agreement between the masterbuilder and the caster.An interesting 'aside'...I've seen casters forget to put release agent on the rubber when making two part molds;They get this great big blob of rubber encasing the master and have to carve it away for the master and start over.

..............Oh man,that just looks so............'RIGHT"...............................

......You actually address him as ....MISTER Stillwagon.........?

Question on the paint....Did you use grey primer or black?..........'Z'

Race Motor Replicas offers a resin 'back halfed' tubbed frame for the R/M 69 Camaro. It will also fit the AMT 67/68 with a little 'finessing',also comes with a lowered front suspension,and a rear axle with trailing arms......'Z'

Welcome to your new job,Pat.....I take it the Elvis impersonater gig fell through? I promise not to blackmail you about your past Pennsylvania history....you know,when you/OOPS,nevahmiiiiind...........'Z'

I agree with Mister Yost here. I put way too much time and energy into my models to have some yay hoo pick them up at a contest -(I watched a judge nearly rip the door off a beautiful street rodded truck at the IPMS regionals in Cleveland last year,then when he DID get it open,he about wore out the hinges playing with the door)...... My stuff may not be the best on the table, but the LAST thing I want to do is have to repair something I have hundreds of hours in because it was mishandled by some one. I always display on a mirror with the model 'elevated' above that mirror There are some really nice and relatively cheap displays out there that break down flat and can easily be stored for travel........Another thing that drives me nuts--nearsighted people with ball caps on,looking closely at models on the contest table.....I don't know HOW many times I've seen somebody bump a model with their hat bill when they bend over to look at something jes' a 'lil closer.....

I use Novus also, and several differant Meguair's products.....Try not to use any soap that may have silicone in it.I wash my stuff in Wesley's Bleche-White........Steve Zimmerman aka the'Z'man

III

Kevin, obviously you've been sleeping in class....................nuff said.