Steven Zimmerman

I don't use the heat shrink tubing at all. I stretch two 'O' rings over a short piece of aluminium tubing and build up the rest of it with various other pieces of aluminium,to resemble the 'Shock Wave' airbags/shocks as seen in the car and truck mags........'Z'

Good tip ! If you can't find airplane tires,go to the hardware store and look for little rubber 'O' rings; gives you a similar look.......

I've seen this before somewhere,but I REALLY ENJOY seeing it again;this is a very nice build!....'Z'

Oops,thats 'resin'...So much fer me proof reading skills.....'Z'

Race motor Replicas sells a resi '55 Chevy 2 door sedan body based on the AMT version; with a chopped top,molded in bumpers,re shaped rear wheel wells,and 2 optional hoods - one with a cowl induction scoop and one with the '67 Chevelle SS power bulges molded in. The hoods are also widened to 'fit' the body (a big problem with some of the AMT 55 Chevies) The rear wheels have been opened up higer in the body,but are still similar in shape to the stock openings-they're actually the R/M 64 Chevy truck rear wheel well openings grafted onto the AMT body before casting. The side chrome spears on the front and rear fenders have been removed. The front and rear glass is also raked and the vent windows removed,this might help you out.....'Z'

I like what you did with the hood....great idea !..........'Z'

I try to build for an hour every night before I go to work,and 4 or 5 hours on saturday night,when a couple of modelling friends come over. We build while watching whatever lousy movie is on the sci- fi channel....'Z'

It will fit,with minor trimming.

I will have to get a couple sets of these myself; I like the coil over arrangement on this better than on the other Mopar. Matt,when you get the tubs cast,shoot us all a picture,eh ?..'Z'

Jimmy Flintstone offers a sedan delivery resin body for that kit; might be an easier'do' than all the slicin n dicin....'Z'(somebody else offers one also,but I don't remember who....)

George,they're correct. Duplicolor has phased out the smaller cans. BUT if you know the part# for the paint(on the can,if you have an empty one)it's probably still available on the internet. I needed a can of Dupicolor torch red,contacted Duplicolor,NO LONGER AVAILABLE- Did a Google search and found it on the internet for about what the auto parts stores used to sell it for,including shipping.....Good luck!......'Z'

I got some of his stuff this spring at a swap meet,and it's TOP NOTCH....'nuffsaid.....'Z'

The Flintstone body 'sorta' has a chopped top....it's designed to use the R/M 60 Impala glass and I believe the '1/1' sedan delivery had a taller windshield Art Anderson would know,I think. F&F used to cast one based on the old AMT 60 Elky,but I don't know if its available anymore. Although the Fintstone's roof is low,and the 'B' posts are slanted,and it wears the Impala trim and tail lights,it would be a good place to start.............the'Z'man

This is turning rather nicely!.....What wheels are you going to use?....'Z'

I use them to hold my hoods on. I drill 2 holes in the top of the firewall about .030 away from the fender and cowl,and imbed a magnet there attached with superglue(top of magnet should be slightly below/even with surface) I then do the same with the radiator support. I then grind small channels in the bottom of the hood directly over where the magnet would be when the hood is closed, being careful not to break through ,and then superglue small pieces of straight pin in the channell . Make sure all magnets/pins are at or below the surface,so you can sand the area smooth with no 'evidence' of the metals.I use magnets at each corner of the hood, because if you just do this at the front of back of the hood,the magnets are so strong they may 'pull' down on the back of the hood enough that you may have a gap where the hood meets the grille. I've had hoods that are slightly warped and have one corner stick up and strategically placed magnets will pull the hood into the correct position! If you place the imbedded pin pieces slightly towards the front of the car(.020) instead of directly over the magnet,it will pull the hood back against the cowl for a tight fit. WARNING....these are MAGNETS we're playin with....Don't try to superglue them in by applying the glue with anything metal,or lay the magnets on the modelling bench near anything metal.....Don't try to use metal tweezers.(DUH) It's possible you may have to shim the hood away from the body because the magnets pull it too close,leaving your hood setting lower then the fenders or cowl. If using the round flat magnets,you must have the flat surface towards the metal piece you want to 'attract',the magnet edges will not hold,and you will have done a lot of work for nothing(grin).....one plus,if you drop a magnet on the floor(and you WILL ) you can find them by waving a piece of metal(must be steel,not aluminium or copper) over the floor,and you will probably find you magnet. Another thing to remember ALL magnets have a 'positive' and a 'negative pole,so if you're using 2 magnets on separate pieces of your model to hold things together,make sure you get the placement right,or the pieces will REPELL each other I get my magnets from amazingmagnets.com - got a hundred for around 10 bucks...........'Z'

I saw the master for this today.....not quite ready to cast,but it looks pretty good so far.

A chopped 'phantom' 66 Nova 2 door wagon is also offered by RMR with the same cowl hood and frame as is offered with the aforementioned 66 chopped Nova; also has a tubbed interior...........'Z'

Also,Race Motor Replicas offers a resin 66 Nova with a chopped roof with the front and back glass 'raked,stretched rear wheel wells,and a cowl hood; and a tubbed frame with a lowered front 'Mustang II' type front suspension.

I've done several of these,each one lowered differantly. The first one,I removed the stock frame at the firewall and grafted in the front frame of an AMT Nascar kit,and trimmed the rear springs at the front spring perches and notched the rear crossmember where the springs attached. On the second one, I used the front frame from a R/M Willys street rod and 'Z'd the front right behind the suspension,and got rid of the leaf spring/rear axle assembly and used the 4 link from the same Willys kit. I had to notch the rear frame rails to get it as low as I wanted. The third one,I shortened a Testor's 'Chezoom' frame and used it,with another AMT Nascar kit frame grafted on from the firewall forward. I narrowed the Chezoom IRS to fit wider tires. Sorry,no pics 'cause I don't have any.............'Z'

Yep,you're correct......Guess my eyes aren't as good as they used to be...

Joe,I've used Tamiya X-SS (item 81522) clear acrylic paint and Poly Scale by Floquil waterbase non toxic clear(sorry,I.D.#s worn off of label), both with good results. I usually just put it on with a brush;it pretty much self levels. One tip,though....DON'T SHAKE THIS STUFF to mix;it turns to a foamy froth and takes an hour to settle down, and if you try to paint with it in this state,it goes on 'bubbly',and dries that way. If you put too much on,you can 'wick' it away with a dry brush,and you can 'work' it with the brush too for a smooth surface-it takes a longer time to set up than clear lacquer or enamel . The Polly S goes on with a whitish cast,but dries clear-this actually helps you visually by showing how well you've covered the surface you're painting,and any spots you missed are easy to touch up .........

I've had good luck putting acrylic or water based clear over Alclad,but haven't tried a wash over that,yet. I'm in the same boat,gotta find a wash that will work without affecting the chrome paint...........

A ragtop would be neat,too. Especially with a cut down windshield and an integral roll bar......'Z'

This is coming right along,I really like it so far.... I think it would look better with a lower rear spoiler coming off the tailgate and level with the top of the bed,the present wing looks like an afterthought,and just looks 'tacked on' (only my opinion,of course) A lower wing coming off the back of the truck would blend well with the rake of the rear window,and would visually lengthen and lower the 'look' of the truck. I think the wheels and the ride height both look great,and NOW you need to do another one just like this and make a 2 door WAGON outta it(GRIN).....'Z'

Darren, Ive tried that magnetic sheeting,but I've never had any luck with it; just isn't powerfull enough. I was buying those magnetic jewelry clasps at the craft stores and cutting them apart,until I found them online. They are relatively inexpensive,anout ten cents apiece at www.amazingmagnets.com for the size I use(app. .060 X.120).......