Steven Zimmerman

I have the same issue,Rob. I probably have 50 Revell kits on the shelf that are on the 'list' and an equal amount of R/M kits that are not....Also,I'm puzzled as to why the Willys kit is not on the list.......

I've had some experience at this; here's my 'take' on master building..... Most resin casters return your master to you after they make the mold,and use one of the early castings as a master'back up' in case of mold failure,wear out,etc. Masters do deteriorate due to body work breakdown,stress during the molding process,etc whereas a resin master doesn't (if properly stored and cared for. If you are constructing a master for a specific caster,you need to communicate with him as to how EXACTLY he wants it done,as to final finish,what color primer (Yes,this can be important) smoothness,any undercuts that may need to be incorporated into the master,finish of the INSIDE of the master,reinforcement of weak spots such as window frames and hood openings,and a myriad of other things (I'm sure I've forgotten some ). Some casters buy masters,but many pay in product return (! master done,in return for copies of the finished product back,etc )Discussion of ALL of this is a VERY IMPORTANT PART of the process....(If you're casting an item for yourself,most of this doesn't matter). One other important thing you need to discuss with the caster is 'turn around' time (length of time after he receives your finished master until you get the finished product back)......Best of luck, Steve Zimmerman aka the'Z'man

Many of us listen to music when we build, and a lot of that is 'rock' music. Rock (or rock n roll) and automobiles have been intertwined since the fifties and has played an integral part in many of our lives. John Lennon is a Rock Icon, and I think this post was appropriate here.. By the way,who can forget John Lennon's psychedelic Rolls Royce ?....Rock on,John Lennon

That would SURE LOOK GOOD with some shiny paint (hint hint)

The answer to Bob's question is no. If you're getting what appears to be ghosting on a RESIN piece,it could be possibly two things. (1) You haven't actually sanded off all of the trim,and primering accents this. Or (2)There is 'ghosting 'left in the master before it was cast,due to a number of causes. BTW,the Tenax trick works great on plastic,but has no effect on resin. Steve Zimmerman aka the'Z'man

Terry was a pretty darned good model builder,in his time(Hint,Hint.....NUDGE NUDGE)....Are ya listenin,TK ?.......the'Z'man

Helpful hint from a long time resin builder....As reccommended by most resin casters; soak the resin in Bleche-White BEFORE you sand;that way you eliminate the possibility of grinding release agent into the surface and helping forstall possible paint adherence problems'down the line'........'Z'

TK and I go back a long time. He is a stand up guy,and I'm glad to see him taking MAS and making a go of it. MAS fills a BIG gap in the model aftermarket. I've used MAS 'stuff' on every model i've built for the last 16 years. MAS trim rings (IMHO) are the best on the market.I'm probably one of the few people on this forum that know what 'fotk' means (GRIN).......theZman

I like the Revell kit better,because the windshield frame is molded integrally with the body,while the AMT kit has the windshield frame molded right on to the glass. I realize this is just personal preference,but I think it's easier to assemble this way, and also easier to paint. Also,I think the R/M headlights are a little less 'fiddly' to assemble,and look more realistic. On the other hand,the AMT tires are about the best set of big n littles on the market,IMHO ( also found in the Wagonrod and Phantom Vickie kits ) and I buy them every chance I get...Steve Zimmerman aka the'Z'man

I just recieved a rack of 29 parts from Chrome Tech that were a mixture of primed resin; unprimed resin; primed plastic,and unprimed plastic parts,and ran the gamut from small Chevy rallye wheel caps to Chevelle bumpers and it was some of the best looking plating I have ever seen . I reccommend Chrome Tech highly.........'Z'

....AWEsome.....just awesome !I really am impressed/and LIKE/ this build............'Z'

I like this; you do some really nice work. Do you need the wheel center,or the little center 'cap'?PM me ifyou don't hear from Terry in a day or two......Steve Zimmerman

I'll be there,at the RMR table. Unfortunately,I won't have my Toledo project done due to 85% PLUS humidity here since last friday....not conducive for shooting lacquer......I blew a whole week's vacation to finish this project,and spent most of it watching it rain. I have a large dehumidifier in the basement,but it can't keep up with it,removing about 4 gallons of water out of the air a day......signed,BUMMED in Meadville....

Kit source for the glass is mentioned in the first post,go back and read it. I'd tell you what it says,but i'm sure some of you in here will tell me its too long,too short,too wide,too narrow,too curved,too flat, etc. Ya know,if somebody put pics of their FINISHED MODEL on here and you dissed it like you did this resin piece (which somebody /not me/ worked VERY HARD to make) there would be cries of outrage!Wassamatta you! No,its not perfect,I knew that when I saw the master,but its work able....To those critics, I say.....buy one,fixit,have it cast,then watch the sharks have a feeding frenzy.........Steve Zimmerman

Mike,have the caster do the hood with the 'filled' parts first,THEN take one of the resin copies and mold your scoop to it,and have it cast also..(beentheredonethat) IMHO,both would be a desireable(read-sellable) item for a resin caster to offer.....'Z'

Harry,do you really think 'bailed' is the word you wanted to use? Maybeyou want to re evaluate that.........

Rather than adjust the frame,it might be easier to just move the wheelwell; or lengthen it towards the front of the car....can't tell for sure with a full 'side' pic of the ca'r ...'Z'(Notice....I said "MIGHT"...)

The AMT 'new' 57 Chevy Street Machine has a really nice big block in it,with a fairly accurate high rise manifold and Holley carb. The only drawback (to me) is the lack of aftermarket type headers,but the cast iron stock type manifolds that come with it are pretty good looking....

Oh,Come ON fellas,I think that (so far) this has been an itelligent,relatively calm thread....I see no'Drama Queen' stuff here,and if you do,it's because you're (IMHO) LOOKING for it ! (grin),..........Relax !

I use super glue on my resin,and I build a lot of it. I probably go through 1 or 2 tubes a week,and have been using it for about 20 years. It has its positive and negative points;its easy to use,dries fast,can be 'instant' with accelerator,sands easily,and doesn't react to paint. Yes,it can be messy,and it sticks to your skin instantly(that's what it was developed for) clogs the applicator if you're not careful.It's cheap,and available EVERYWHERE. I use both the gel and the'runny stuff' but I like the thin stuff the best,because of its capillary properties,and i've even used it as body filler. I've tried every brand available in this area-they're all about the same. My wife won't go near the stuff, but she collects ceramic hummingbird figurines(several hundred);we have cats,suffice it to say the stuff works very well when repairing these(about once a month ....for years....)........'Z'

Sedan deliveries/panel deliveries were usually (but not always) of a two door configuration. Some Suburbans had 3 doors(two on one side,one on the other. There were many variations on the rear door/doors....

The first thing that popped into my mind was that 'U S ARMY' commercial... BE....ALL that you can BE ! I'm NOT puttin anybody down here,but my motto is EXCEED your limitations!

Dyechem (not sure of the spelling)...I go through a bottle every two or three weeks at work......'Z'