johnbuzzed

I will be getting the '65; now, I'm wondering what else you guys might have in the works...

That looks like a go-kart!

You're 14 and have built just two "glue bombs"? Do yourself a favor- get your basic Revell or Monogram kit and paint at Wal Mart, even if the paint is not to your liking. You might be able to get other supplies, such as an x-acto type knife, glues and sanding sticks there, too- or maybe at an Ace hardware store, if there's one nearby. Then, take those basic building needs and build a box-stock model, following the instructions and taking your time. Use what tools you get or already have correctly, clean your brushes well after you paint and take your time with the rattle can. Do your best to build a non glue-bomb. We can and will answer any questions that you have along the way. Get a couple of easy, basic kits under your belt first. Keep it simple-don't look to add aftermarket parts right away. There are plenty of adult modelers with a lot of experience who have problems with that stuff, trying to compensate for poor basic building skills. Starting out with the more exotic, imported kits and parts might not be the best thing to do- they ain't cheap and things can be a bit particular. Plus, ordering on-line creates shipping and handling fees, which can add up. And while you might not have a great selection of hobby shops, etc, near your home, nor a lot of $$$, there are ways to get places and get some $$$. Chores and yardwork might lead to an allowance. Save every bit of spare pocket change that you can. Sometimes it doesn't hurt to just ask your parents "Please"? It didn't always work for me, but there were times when it did.

Still watching, patiently waiting...

The correct term would probably be "over-privileged", but the point is moot. We are pretty much all "adult" modelers here and we do have the privilege of airing our grievances regarding the products of the manufacturers whom we support. Granted, the subject in question might be just a "test shot", but flaws have been noticed and the manufacturer has been called on them. And, it seems as though a rep of the manufacturer acknowledges the situation; we can hope that the flaws that can be corrected will be corrected. I'm sure we all applaud and appreciate that. It is not unreasonable for consumers of any goods to expect a quality product from a quality manufacturer. It is good customer relations for a manufacturer to acknowledge customer feedback and act accordingly. And, if I choose to get my panties in a bunch, foam at the mouth, go punch a wall or ignore this situation- so what? Does my reaction matter so much to anyone that they must tell me so?

If I were to fold a sheet of looseleaf paper a few times, does that make it a scale model of a F-105 Thunderchief?

There is a difference between a "buildable" kit and a kit with inaccuracies, although the causes for such problems might be the same. Many, if not most of us here do have the abilities to correct flaws in kits, but some flaws are of the "WTF" kind. There are no excuses on the manufacturer's part for those types of flaws. I've been building since 1960 and I don't want to have to overcome built-in obstacles such as a poor-fitting interior (but I will, because I have to), much less fix incorrect body contours or dimensions. Maybe it comes with age and as I realize that I possibly have more kits in my stash than I'll be able to build, especially as I will acquire more kits; why the heck should I spend time correcting what the manufacturer should have already done? The technology is there, as is the availability of accurate reference material and the actual kit subjects. Come on- you can't find a vintage Ford pickup to get correct measurements? I realize that we are not dealing with rocket science, but that's the point- it shouldn't be so difficult for any manufacturer to produce an accurate replica of a given subject. I realize that no one is forcing me or any of us to buy any particular kit, of course, but no one is forcing the manufacturers to produce second-quality merchandise. Why is it considered "good enough"?

It does look good with the Cragars... now I'm gonna check my S&M kit.

Better yet, pass those build instructions along to that person who wants the model built. Let him or her build a "replica" of their own vehicle; they can have all the more pride in their ride.

I think that part of the problem is that most of the general, non-model-building public don't, can't or won't understand the amount of time, effort, research, etc, that many of us put into even the most basic box-stock build, just to get it to meet our personal standards when it sits on the shelf. I remember going to a 1:1 car show and watching some bozo pick up my '37 Ford ( he owned one, so he felt privileged...) and ask if the cost was about $5.00. Funny thing is, none of the models that any one of us had on display was offered for sale in any way. I wanted to snap off his arm and beat him with it, but I remained quite calm and explained my version of the meaning of life, as it regards model cars, to him, and what value I might assign that model. I got a low-key, stunned "Oh", and he walked away. Probably thought the silly man and his toys model cars was crazy. I might be, but while I might not know the dollar value of what an artist puts into his or her work, I can understand and respect the value of the completed work in the artist's mind.

I'll be following this, Mike; at the very least, to see how your color choice looks! I have the same in mind for my '68.

That's a nice build, Roger- but, did the Cragars come with the kit? I have one on my shelf and it's been so long since I last looked at it...

Mike, the kit I used is the "Millennium" edition, from 1999-2000?. The body molding is a little weak in some areas, particularly around the window trim. I'm going to be scribing that for BMF and that's not something that I'm looking forward to. Also, the right rocker panel suffered from a problem in molding that might be called a "short shot"- it was incomplete and wavy. I fixed that with a strip of Evergreen styrene.

A "guy I know"? I would politely inform that guy that he would have to supply the kits and paints, interior and exterior, and charge him a flat fee for a basic, box-stock build. Anything extra would be... extra $$$. Personally, I don't offer my building services to anyone for $$$. This is a hobby and not an occupation; I don't want it to turn into "work" with obligations to anyone but myself to enter a contest. If I decide to give a model as a gift, then it's a gift to a good friend or relative for a good reason.

If I remember correctly, the Cutlass Supreme was one of the best selling cars of the early '80's. There seemed to be maroon on maroon boxes with vinyl roofs and velour upholstery all over Long Island. One doesn't see too many now.

That's looking good, Safak. You got me considering the use of Alclad now...

Bookie, I sent you a PM.

One of our club members builds some phenomenal models, pretty much box stock but with basic wiring, ultra-clean BMF, decals and gorgeous paint. It's contest-quality work, without a doubt, but his rate of building is scary. Whatever stash he has must be really small.

Tim- would you be able to do such a comparison via pictures? Figure out what angles, what distance, lighting, etc. you both should use to keep things similar, then post the results?

Don't worry, Michael. You'll catch up to the rest of us one day, then wonder why you did...

Looks good. Are you a member of the LIARS club?

Nice and clean. I'd be happy to have that on my shelf.

Thanks to all of you. I'll post more as I go. Mike, I went with the pinion snubber because it was/is the hot setup for Mopars for so many years. There is one on my '67 Charger (in "under glass"); that one is scratchbuilt, too. James460, I never really cared for the really jacked-up look and that's what I think of when I think "Hijackers"- so, I chose Koni yellow (I think that's correct) instead. I have a boatload of reference material on my phone and I want to keep this as realistic as possible; I don't want the finished model to look like I just threw a bunch of aftermarket detail stuff at it. I'm just about at the point where "good enough" isn't. Heck, this is the third Hemi I've cut up to use with the Torqueflite- I goofed on the first two. The headers are soaking in Purple Power right now because the flat white is too bright, and I just realized that I goofed on the rear brake lines... but the project goes on!!!

Some updates... still a lotta work ahead. You can see the bump-stops on the frame rails and the fabricated pinion snubber. ">http:// Some mechanical stuff. The white styrene pieces with the pins are the voltage regulator and ballast resistor. The safety loop was fabricated from styrene, as were the shocks. I still have some touching up to do. [ ">http:// Those silver pac-man like things are dust shields for the front discs. ">http:// The hood insulation pad is construction paper; fasteners were simulated using a pencil where needed. The Pentastar front plate was a gift from a friend who passed long ago (Jerry Lotz). It's engraved aluminum. ">http:// The headliner in place. It, too, is construction paper; the seams were simulated with a pencil. ">http://[url=http://s889.photobucket.com/user/jbuzz710/media/1968%20Road%20Runner/CAM00529.jpg.html][/ URL] Anything in white on the instrument panel is styrene stock, but the pedals are from my parts box. I have to adjust the fit of the gas pedal to have it "hinge" on the floor. The front seat backs were cut apart and can be gently "positioned" a bit; the seat belts are also from construction paper and they will slip into the gap between the seat backs and bottom cushions in the front and back. The steering wheel is from a Johan '68 Chrysler 300.

I'll be watching this one, too.