johnbuzzed

Definitely. No bout adoubt it.

This kit was a feature of a make and take in which my club participated back late last century. I remember it as, without a doubt, one of the most terrible kits that I have ever encountered in my life. I had one in my personal stash and gave up on it when it needed too much attention. I could think of more than a few other kits as a quick build, but that's just my opinion. IF I had to do it all over again, and add some detail, I would use the new Revell 'Cuda chassis- it is much nicer than the '83 vintage Ertl Challenger chassis. I'm gonna watch this build. Good luck with it.

Diesel exhaust, be it from a deuce and a half, a backhoe or a boat. Hot metal. Fried electronic components. Two-cycle exhaust, with the gas/oil mixture. Testors liquid cement. Testors small, square bottle enamels always bring me back to the early '60's...

Wow!!! How cool is that? Very nice!!

And a few more. The pictures were taken with my phone, so the quality might be a little poor. ">http:// ">http:// ">http:// ">http:// ">http://http://s889.photobucket.com/user/jbuzz710/media/Forty%20Ford/CAM00039.jpg.html'>

This is the Revell "Goodguys" issue from late '09. It's pretty much box stock with the exeecption of some flock, speaker grille decals, a photo-etched radio face and Pegasus wheels and tires. I have a can of Tamiya French or Brilliant Blue for the body. The grille area is marked out because I had originally planned to remove it and use a substitute, but things changed. As always, comments and critiques are welcome. http:// http:// http:// http:// http://

So, all those insects out there, such as the Japanese beetle, have to pay VW to use the scientific term "beetle"...? Where does this silly stuff end ?

Jeremy, remember that an incandescent bulb and an LED are two totally different things.

Well, it turns out I'll only have two Mustangs, but I'll see you at the show, Frank.

Not everyone has access to either of the two stores; some have both within a convenient distance. If it were up to me, I would use the coupon and shop locally. At least some of your cash will stay in your local area. Probably not so (in most cases) with e-bay.

I'll be there, with a (currently) non-building, childhood friend who is also from L.I. I'll have three Mustangs on the tables and be wearing a L.I.A.R.S. CLUB t-shirt.

That's cool. I'll be watching this build. I have an original MPC '73 Challenger that I got for Christmas in '72; being 17 at the time, I built it with the "gasser" option. I planned on rebuilding it with the AMT/Ertl Challenger chassis but I am considering their Duster chassis as it's a little more accurate.I will use the 340 from the same Duster kit (not the street machine version). It has the A/C setup. Hopefully, it will have more than just a passing resemblance to the real '73 that I had so loooong ago.

That is a really nice build. Very clean, just enough detail. I would be happy to have that on my shelf.

I'm not putting down anybody and I don't see how you can infer differently from my posts. I merely mentioned that I am biased against Chevies, and that I won't buy any particular kit just because it's popular. Who do you think that might that offend put down? Oddly enough, my first ride in a car was a Chevy. I would buy a blue and white '53 210(I think...) 4 door for my "stable" if I ever hit Lotto. I even have a picture of a similar car on my phone. Go figure.

I'm looking because it's a forum and I want to see reviews of this product. I want to know if Revell is doing any better, quality-wise, than they have with some of their other recent releases. Partially, to covertly express my opinion that, even though this might be another greatest-thing-since-sliced-bread (or, whatever contemporary comparison you choose) kit, I won't buy it. I fell into that trap some years back; fortunately, I was able to get rid of a majority of those kits, but life is short and I am at the point where I won't buy a kit unless it floats my boat (yes, I'll even buy a boat kit). And, finally- yes, to air my non-Chevy bias (strange as it might be to some, I do have some Chevies on my shelves, both kits and completed). It is a forum; I am opining. You, too, can do the same on any reviews you so choose, if it makes you feel better.

Another kit I won't be buying as I'm not into Chevies. So, there's one "extra" out there for someone.

How about the Meyers "Tow'd"? Not really a dune buggy, more of an off-roader, but if I remember correctly it had the Corvair engine- and it was molded in green.

Thanks for the pulley info. I'll be able to apply that one day...

Malibu, you`re right. That was my initial point.

Malibu, you`re right. That was my initial point.

You're better off with the Monogram kit.

Scott, they just had a tiny picture with the design already applied to valve covers; it kinda looked like carbon-fiber. Cliff, I'm not looking for info, I just thought this was an interesting crossover between "their" world and "our" world, and how sophisticated technical terms can make the simplest things seem so exotic. I think it would be neat to include the term "hydrographics" in a spec sheet about a model ("...and the hydrographics were from my stash.") I have another bit of text from the same issue that, when a few nouns are changed, applies to some builder's perceptions of many of the long-term projects that we see in the forum. I'll share that another time. Andy, I think what you're referring to is what Hank Borger called "swirladelic". Basically, it involved a container of water that was deep enough to submerge the body of a car model and at least two colors of spray paint. You paint the body with a base color and allow it to dry. Then, you immerse the body, which should be mounted on a wire hanger or something similar, rocker panels down (but there's another school of thought here). Spray the paint from the other can onto the surface of the water. It will float and make some interesting patterns. I don't remember how to judge when to do so, but at some point after spraying the paitn, you slowly raise the body and lift it out of the water. When that application dries, hit it with a coat of clear. Please keep in mind that I'm writing this from memory of an article that I first read about 44 years ago, so it might not be exactly correct.

"It's a multi-step process that can be applied to metal, plastic, glass and fiberglass. The surface is cleaned and prepped the same as it would be for paint. Then the desired pattern and the part are submerged in water, where the pattern adheres to the part. Once that pattern is rinsed and dried, it is clearcoated." This is an excerpt from a paragraph in Hot Rod Magazine, October 2014, about a process that they call "hydrographics". The article advises that it is also called "water-transfer printing" and "hydro printing". The designs can be applied "to just about any hard, non-porous surface". Except for submerging the part in water, it sounds a lot like applying decals. Life imitates art, imitates life...

On older cars: the door lock knob thing, that's located on the top surface if the interior door panel. Small thing, but it adds something. And, antennas. On older cars, a solid or telescopic stick -and I don't mean the way-out-of-scale chrome pieces that are included in many kits. On newer cars- well, they're hard to describe, but there they are, just above the rear window; some looking rather like little dorsal fins.

What else would one use a rollbar for?