southpier

or jeweler's saw http://www.micromark.com/jewelers-saw,6747.html

good in theory, but if the track is dissimilar front/ rear, won't that make too much toe to either front or rear wheels?

ditto; good link to Scale Finishes

the original car is less "solid" for lack of a better term. it doesn't even have a floorboard for crying out loud! so there's less to be black if that makes sense. but it does look like the child o' bug - and that was what you were trying to accomplish, yes?

AMT Styline kits for $1.49 - Trophy kits for $1.19 - Double kits for $2.00 - Revell Parts Packs for 49 - 69 cents - Testor's jar paints for 10 cents - and if you had birthday or Christmas money - Pactra spray paint for 69 cents. annual subscription to Rod & Custom was $3.00. Auto World was the mecca for all things detail including Ulrich mini-men @ 2 for 69 cents, chenille upholstery kits, too, and the ubiquitous "Auto-Cutter" for a whopping $4.95.

i cannot even imagine what it would be like to drive that.

true that. i use Lexan if i need a polycarbonate material.

JB is great stuff. i like to clean both surfaces with a swab dipped in denatured alcohol first.

without noting your prejudice to any of the materials mentioned, you could use 3/8" or 1/2" Gatorfoam http://gatorfoamboard.com/ it's harder to cut than wood or plexiglass, and may well need an edge treatment, but you did want another suggestion ....

and the tutorial on Model A mechanical brakes will be appearing . . . ?

1/25 = 1 divided by 25 = .040 = 1" in scale scale 1" x 3 = .120" scale 1" x 4 = .160" conversion tables from the www: http://www.hamuniverse.com/antfrac.html .120" - < 1/8" or < 3.1750 mm .160" - < 5/32" or < 3.9688 mm some math guru could figure the exact conversion, but i model to 12" scale. if i can't see the discrepancy from 12" away, paint it!

never heard of Whipple before - http://www.whipplesuperchargers.com/product.asp?ProdID=1177 really like the CL wheels, too. very nice. how do you retail?

i've forever wanted a Cox chassis & wheels in 1/25. i think there was a Cheetah & Chapparel - maybe some others. i'd find something to do with it. there is a commercial track about 25 miles from here.

anyone have a rattle can brand & color that comes reasonably close to the early Dow anodizing colors? i've seen Dow #7 & #17 which looks good. some information here : http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=235753 & http://www.tagnite.com/dow17_coating/ . thanks

this is the clearest picture i could find: http://www.303rdbg.com/u-1342.jpg

buy as many magazines as you can when at shows and somebody is selling them for 50 cents each. go through them and cut out anything you like. put them in a notebook or box, and refer to them often.

good proportions

shoehorn that sucker in there!

maybe some help here, too: http://straightlinemodeler.org/ http://vintagedragmodelsinc.proboards.com/index.cgi http://z8.invisionfree.com/Scale_Racing_Lobby/index.php?showforum=19

and "form follows function" http://janmichl.com/eng.fff-hai.html

isn't there like a gazillion 1/32 scale slot car companies? or do you need a static model chassis? i'm more confused than ever

so what should we talk about? Tom, i don't know what happened, but i take it from one of the above posts it was not a good thing.

i've had good luck with Ford research on the http://fordbarn.com/ forum. this kind of stuff abounds http://www.bilderload.com/daten/img0048VMOQS.jpg (yeah, i know it's a Chevy)

why not just make it from styrene?

i've used the Hush Puppy brush regime