Mike Kucaba

There are all kinds of clear coatings on the market for a variety of uses. Years ago I was turned on to PPG DCA 468 Hi Performance clear and haven't looked back since. I thin this with usually PPG DTL 105 thinner.This is an acrylic lacquer product.

Very nicely done!

Check out DonJer products for different kinds of flocking. You can buy in bulk and I believe they sell flocking in different materials (rayon,nylon,etc) For big scale builders I would think the bulk buy would be a real bonus. Douglas & Sturgess is another seller of flocking in bulk. A fine screen to sift the flocking thru helps a heap,but it seems finding the right adhesive is the key.

There was a 125/24 MGA by Strombecker. I recently saw one on ebay.

Parts by Parks had them and I believe still do.

Oh Tay . I'll be there too. I'll have four or five large boxes of models.<G>

I got a buck three eighty in all my stuff.

The only 1/8th scale Camaro was made by Monogram and it is OOP and expensive.Some one on this forum has scratch built a 1969,but I don't think that's available for sale.

Basically, all plastic is resin and all resin is plastic... The difference is how they are used. Plastic,usually is used as a super heated liquid 400 degrees or higher,which is pushed into a mold at forces at or above 500 tons. The resin we talk about here is two chemicals mixed together and thru an exothermic reaction solidify in a (usually) silicone rubber mold and become a resin body ,hood or whatever the mold represents.

Are you keeping the PP warmish? PP and SC works best when warmish. If you just rinse off the bodies with water you can use DPD with out any problems,Just make sure the model is dry first.

Just beautiful and we really need to send e-mails to Terry over at M.A.S. to get the P.E. wire wheels for classics back in the catalog.

"On most of my models I spend any where from a couple of months to a few years of spare time working on them. A two dollar trophy is not going to make a bit of difference in my enjoyment of the hobby. " This sums it up for me. Well said

I have one sitting here that I also got off ebay. It has a body with engine compartment molded in,vacuum formed rear window,and an interior bucket with no seats,dash, or a hood. What typically is the donor for this? Also on this one the visors are molded in,the f&r facias are also. How do I tell if the engine compartment is correct? I remember reading about a build-up long ago that the battery placement being an issue year to year.

Cheapest I've seen are by Herb Deeks. He sells on ebay as Deeks models. They are the P.E. part meant to be used usually with the kits rims with the plastic "wire" part removed and only the rims and hubs used. Once you look for wire wheels with P.E spokes and aluminum rims the price jumps up. I bought some sets from Deeks and they were $18.00 a set.

Even if all this works,there still is a finite amount of paint and you'll eventually run-out.Better to start searching for a replacement now than later. http://www.greatmodels.com/~smartcart/cgi/display.cgi?item_num=FLO404055 http://www.greatmodels.com/~smartcart/cgi/display.cgi?item_num=FLO404064 http://www.greatmodels.com/~smartcart/cgi/display.cgi?item_num=FLO414131 http://www.greatmodels.com/~smartcart/cgi/display.cgi?item_num=FLO414255 Hope this helps.

Looks good. I could see someone scratch building a frame,interior and making a pesentable static model from this.Wouldn't be a bad start for a copy casting either.

And... If you'll re-read the original post,you'll see that he was looking for something to retard the drying. This medium is a thinner,no? Then it to would be an additive.Also I'm in Arizona and the temps now are over 100 F. I spray outside in my patio and if I didn't use a retarder,or the other additive, flo- aid,the paint would be drying on the airbrush. I will try the medium that you showed in another post as it is the same brand as some of the other acrylics I have.Maybe it's cheaper than Tamiya's.

And it definitely will get plenty of fresh air.

I'm sure that what ever you do to this interior will be fantastic,and I like the 4 bucket seat idea. The speaker you cut out though is really a fresh air duct that can be opened with a little rod on the 1:1

I didn't think this kit was all that rare,but everybodys grail is different. What did you pay for this IIMA? RTV rubber for the molds would be about $8-$12 a pound and the body and hood would be about 7-10 pounds,Then there is all the rest,glass,interior etc. Resin isn't all that much,but it still adds up. I think I have a couple of those kits still sealed.

I'd like to see plan drawings of frames in various scales so I could attempt a scratch built brass one.

I have a couple of sets in 1/8th scale. One set is from an aftermarket company whoose name escapes me at the moment,and another set from Bob Dudek. You don't mention what scale you need,but Bob could probably whip up a set for you in most any scale. If it's 1/24th R&D unique had some (non-working) and they show up on ebay from time to time.

That grille should have been on the real car originally.Nice re-use of an old part.How about some MV lenses to replace the headlites?

NIIICE!! I also like the teasers in the background!!

Chicago suburb Dundee/Wheeling Illinois ,Venture Hobbies.