Mike Kucaba

Here's another method to attach PE parts.Cut off and prep the part as you would normally,then attach it to clear decal film with Future,or any clear acryllic. Let dry and the apply the PE and decal film as you would a decal.Any decal film left on around the PE can be removed by using the different decal solvents. Disclaimer:I've yet to try this,but I know its been done,but I can't remember who gave the tip. Mike

Try to get a look at the custom parts that came with the original issue AMT '62 Bonneville.I see these every so often on ebay. I also saw in Collectible automobile design studies in clay that there was a '61 catalina with a split rear window similar to the Stingray.It even had the doors cut into the leading edge of the roof. Mike

Take the airbrush apart and look very closely at the inside of part #2 (the aircap) you will see several tiny holes around the edge. Look for raggedy edges around these holes,and with a small drill bit(but larger than the holes)chamfer these .This is the same problem I had with my first VL. This is a very good airbrush,and you shouldn't be having this trouble.If this doesn't work by all means send it back to Paasche. HTH Mike

I've not tried this,but aluminum armature wire(used for supporting sculptures) works well so I've read.Get it at Hobby Lobby, Michaels etc.

Well Dave, I personally don't like being shouted at,either in person,or on an internet forum. You can start practicing what your preaching by not responding with capital letters,a basic netiquette rule.

Neat Stuff Randy!! I will be copying that as soon as I get a place to build again,LOL. Seriously,I really dig the use of all those old Kustom parts in the original issues. And I see you really took the bull by the horns in cutting out all the floor pan on the orignals chassis. I think I'll look into using that '60 Starliner for that. Mike

The engine could have been from a Revell parts pack,but those headers look like the AMT double dragster kit. HTH

I can't vouch for how well they do in foiling,but I know I've seen an ad somewhere about #11 blades made from ceramic. They are super sharp & outlast steel blades 10:1 or better.

I've decanted 100's of spray cans usually because the spray nozzle did not work.I just rip the valve off the top of the can and when I hear a little hiss of air I toss a rag over the top and walk away for a bit.I use a pair of large side cutters to remove the valve.I worked for a number of years in an aerosol valve manufacturer and had to find a way to do this for the Q.C. department so they could check why valves were returned by the fillers.To get as much of the pressure as possible from the can shake it as normal and use a large c-clamp to hold the nozzle down while the can is upside down!!! Repeat this procedure many times as there is a lot of propellant in a aerosol can. The device Bob refers to is a saddle clamp valve and usually is applied to tap a water pipe for a ice maker in a fridge or a humidifier in a heating system.I haven't tried this yet but iy seems that it would work quite well. I just wish Tamiya & Testors would offer all their sprays in bottles so this would not be neccessary (for me).I believe that even the crummiest airbrush sprays better that any nozzle on a spray can,even Tamiya.

Two of the best come from either M.A.S. or Replicas & Miniatures. MAS are aluminum rims & hubs w/P.E for the spoke part.R&M's are the same,EXCEPT the rims & hubs are resin. Hi Guys: Help Please. I need some dragster front wheels and tires. Motorcycle style from the 60s. Anyone have some extras in their parts box they could spare? How about some good aftermarket supliers? Whats a good kit to purchase that might have some good ones? I bought the 22jr kit to get the 2 pair that come in that kit but ended up building the kit! I would also like to find some 12 spoke 60s gasser front wheels and tires. Thanks, Merk

Lately when I try to follow a thread my Imac locks up and I have to back up and leave that thread? Anyone else here using a Mac have that? Mike Kucaba

And after polishing the clear glass windshields try dipping the windshield ( or any clear plastic part) i Future and it will shine and it even fills in minute scratches. Mike Kucaba

I'm also a big fan of Tamiya Smoke.Some modelers don't like the gloss that it has,so when buying it,get two bottles and some Tamiya flat additive and dull it to your liking.Smoke as it comes from the bottle also has uses such as "toning down" the chrome on some parts(great on hubcaps).MTC.

I'm also a big fan of Tamiya Smoke.Some modelers don't like the gloss that it has,so when buying it,get two bottles and some Tamiya flat additive and dull it to your liking.Smoke as it comes from the bottle also has uses such as "toning down" the chrome on some parts(great on hubcaps).MTC.

Here's the item # for thr Harbor Freight dehydrator...94878.I punched this in and it came up Out of stock/discontinued,but they do that a lot.I'd call and ask CS to check using that number.HTH

Thses were at a store location locally to me.Maybe that's all they had I don't know.

Hi Dave, Brian posted a while ago that he was moving to Wyoming to attend the Wyoming tech school.I thought he was still going to be active with the flaming and painting,but I haven'tseen any recent posts anywhere.Sorry. that pic of SNOWBALL looks pretty good !!!

I'm in the Chicgago,IL area and the only place I can find it is at Michael's.They hide it pretty good so ask.I also get the same brand primer in white too.For the Kustomizers out there,or anyone needing a gray primer with a high solids Michael's also sell a primer under the name of Design Master.This stuff is THICK,so shake the can and make sure you heat the can well.I'm going to check out Car Quest in my area now also. You should'nt paint in a cold garage either.Weird things will happen eventually like cracking coatings etc. HTH

Thanks.I was wondering about that.Does anyone know if he sets up at the local shows in AZ/Phoenix area?I was going to have my brother check out the product line and pick up some stuff for me.

I've used DuPont Vari-prime for a while and I don't see why you should have any problems.It won't hurt the styrene and it was really made to work with metal.Did you use the Dupli-Color brand in the aerosol?

No complaints,Just wondering if anyone knows wha'happened.Had an inquiry on a message board I moderate. Thanks

I recently saw some dehydrators at a local Harbor Freight store.They looked identical to the Magic Chef brand that I have had for a few years.These have a heating element and a fan to circulate the air and have a vent at the top that you open & close to regulate the temp.Mine runs about 100 degrees F. with the vent open,and about 110 degrees F. with it closed.I usually run it for a few hours with the vent open after putting parts or a body in to allow the paint to gas out quickly.Airbrushed enamels,properly thinned,usually are hard enough to be polished out in about 8 hours,longer if from a aerosol.I don't bother putting lacquer painted parts in it as they dry pretty fast without any help.HTH

Time Machine Resin offers a boot with their '71 Challenger Pace Car.When I saw Jeff at Toledo in October he didn't have it available as a separate item.Maybe he does now. HTH

HMMMMM. That's a tough one lemmme see... AH!-HA 1. A full detail kit of the McQuay-Norris speedster 2.The Stout Scarab 3.Bucky Fullers Dymaxion!! jes kiddin',what ever the companies produce is OH TAY wit me.(I'll B&M after they are released) What I'd REALLY like to see is the model companies stop putting scribed in markings under the hoods that ghost thru after painting. sink marks in frames(I'm aware of draft angles in injection molding.Make the frmaes multi- piece so that's not an issue.) This is a good start.

I voted for the 612,but they are all neat and certainly diverse!!A helicopter?A Vespa scooter!! What/how is the IMSA Goodwrench Corvette coming,I was hoping you had figured out a masking technique.