Mike Kucaba

Well after polishing out the Light Gunmetal body of my Alfa BAT I took the plunge and shot some of the TAM clear on it this morning. It's hanging up to cure now in my 8X45 foot dehydrator (AKA My Patio). It does look good!

I'd suggest you check out TAP Plastics for their rtv that is really thin and needs no vacuuming. Also when you mix rubber for a mold,don't try and do it in one pour.You can mix small batches and do a print coat and watch out for any bubbles.There are many good resins,and I'd suggest finding a slower set one that you like,and get familiar with all the terms about durometer ,shore and etc.

Let's also not forget weaponry,and safe nuclear power.My guess is that the French auto industry is government funded.Also they did have a brief flirtation with automotive genius with the Citroen SM.

Well I found this. Nothing about the engine per se,but it must be Italian. Hey it's early and the nite is young. http://automotivetraveler.fotki.com/1959-fiat-682rn2-ba/

I seem to remember something about using Tamiya clear over Tamiya Lacquer paint.Do I wait several days? Clear right away? or give it the old sniff test.

I can't comment on the brand of primer you show.Maybe some Canadian folks know better.Some people swear by Krylon primer,but I don't use it. My goto primers are Plastikote sandable gray,Tamiya gray and white, and DuPont Vari-Prime. I also prime everything!! except maybe stuff that I will shoot with Alclad chrome if there hasn't been any putty work and the bare plastic is smooth.

If it's in an aerosol can,there is not much you can do with it now. Just make sure you warm the can as you would any aerosol.

Only one more * squirrel * to get rid of in this house!!

". to make her happy..." John, This is all you have to do to make a girl happy? Build a model car? I feel your pain<g> I hope she was ecstatic!! Fantastic build.

Hmmm.Almost 50% off? ask the manager if he'll go 60%!! I did that at an HL on 3, 1/16th Tony Nancy fuelers by Revell. The boxes were badly damaged but still sealed.We opened each one and there were parts broken(easy fixes to me) got them for $10 ea.

I use the typical plexi cases that mount to a wall. Got mine at the Toledo show several years ago and they were made by Carney plastics,but there a pretty much standard design offered by many.If you do go for them look locally to save on shipping. Most any case can be made virtually dustless by using a vinyl weather stripping product by 3M(shameless plug) or many others. It's a vinyl self adhesive strip that you apply to the inside edges.

UPDATE! Reply from Altered States. Got a reply from AS this morn and he states he does make an G-B-P body.My guess is you have to put that in the order form. Check magazines for reference as to the little bumps in the body(under the motor) on the GMP diecast.This is a relatively short wheelbased car so the Garlits Wynns Charger should be a good donor.

Well... I've bought 3 (the first one is ready for paint) and I'm STILL wondering how I'm going to foil the trim around those fins!I'd say the castings are top notch.Be aware that he is not able to supply the PE wire wheels & hubs.Every thing else is there though.AND I saw your Cunningham and that may be my next Fisher purchase.

Yeah, This is what happens when your looking for inspiration in old car magazines late at night.This was SUPPOSED to be an easy mod of Edsel station wagon taillights.

Well there is a G-B-P model in the gallery on the site. Maybe he made it at one time and GMP put the stop to that.The Body and injector scoop is identical to my GMP diecast. except the GMP model has a little bump on the right side below the motor. I sent a e-mail find out.I got mine off ebay a couple months ago,and I thought for sure it came in a bag with an Altered States hang tag.

I could've sworn I answered this before,but Altered states makes a body to do The G-B-P- rail. I'm not sure what chassis you'd use as I don't have any reference material unpacked.The Ramchargers kit may be one and the newly reissued Ivo car?

Here's a JF resin '49 Ford. This is what happens after working on Fisher's Alfa RomeoBAT

I have had models literally fall apart after soaking in Super Clean.May take weeks though.

Everything you've done here has been fabulous.I would only change your color choice and do a very dark met. blue like Midnight Blue.JMHO

If you are looking at 1/16th,check out what is there now,and has been there, like the 30's stuff from Minicraft and come up with a transkit for some of those.I.E. an art deco body for some of Entex's old classics. Just a thought.

Jon thank you so much for that.Those are the best pictures I have ever seen! It makes much more clearer the scribed lines that were on the resin kit originally. That would be great detail to open and hinge that panel to show off a gas tank.

It is a resin trans kit from Mini-Exotics. I've had it for quite some time.Ever since I saw the pic with the trunk swung down I've wanted to incorporate that feature into it.My best guess is that the Trunk swings down,and then the top panel goes up. The car was known as the SR-2 It was seen in red with some cones over the headlites and more recently in blue with regular lites.

I'd start with the '65 Bonneville kit.That at least gets that item out of the way, then see if Modelhaus offers the bumpers and such for 1966.

If the photo comes thru,Has anyone any photos of the trunk and seat panel open? along time ago I saw one where the trunk swings down.This is the closest I've come with the headrest parts fitting so well.

Yes I was, but by accident I figured out a way to get someone else to do it. By the way Thank you. <G> ( I guess doing any tutorials with pics is not gonna' happen soon)