Mike Kucaba

It isn't/wasn't" just" about the spelling. It was more about attitude.

I decided to glue the trunk shut and smooth it over,maybe I'll just scribe in some lines later.I just couldn't figure out how to hinge it with all the bodywork on the inside.

Either separate the wing in the center spar,and deal with each side separately, or do what was said in the reply above.As far as a filler,I've been real pleased with 30 minute epoxy mixed with microballons.If you were to flow it in very carefully,you might not need to sand at all.There seems to be no right or wrong mix with this stuff either.The more microballoons you add,the thicker it gets.

Here's a '60 ford just started.So far,only the roof is done. Maybe It's roofs' used two to get this effect.

Would someone in authority PLEASE ban this Jimmy jerk!! His arrogance AND ignorance is not commensurate with the spirit of this group.

Truth be told,when I saw that in my copy of the mag,the same thought ran thru my mind...

And after the 1/72nd I believe there is one in 1/16 or 1/8. Hasegawa maybe?

Man! You really hacked up a RARE kit.... Looks great!!!!!!! (Due to cutbacks and energy concerns,the Light At The End Of The Tunnel,will be turned off.)

>I personally prefer the ones where it's just a couple of pics of wheels under an unpainted body shell and then you never see another update...< Yeah,and they've already picked the color!

Greenstuff was also the name of a lacquer based spot putty used in the late 60's and maybe thru the 70's. It was made by R-M paints.

Way to go Jon!! I was having trouble reading this guy's message.Yet Another example of the failure of public education.

A picture of what you want to do would be very helpful,and possibly get more responses.

>Is it practical to airbrush in doors in a room that contains computers and other electronic equipment and which is part of the general living space in a house.< Yes, I'm sure a lot of the people on this board do this routinely. >Or is there still too much overspray and residual odor? Do you need a spray booth to get around this?< Yes & yes >2) Compressors – A quick look over at Harbor Freight revealed some very tempting compressors for surprisingly cheap money. They seem to come in two flavors, with or without a tank.< With tank. My choice and what I use. > Is paying for a tank a waste of money?< Not IMHO >But I don't think painting model cars means lengthy periods of time airbrushing.< That's what you think<G> It opens up all kinds of opportunity for creative paint work The biggest difference between a hobby type compressor or one developed for airbrushing VS. the small & big units is NOISE. Iwata and a few others make compressors for airbrushing that are hard to tell they are running. Hope this helps

I believe they are all PE,including the belt material.There is another version by a company that I can't recall the name of that makes a belt set entirely of resin(flexible) but I only saw them in 1/32 scale.

This is why I MISS Cover Shot Models.They had those harnesses already assembled.

... and there are plenty of books on the subject too.Get a little background on the subject,then ask some specific questions on tasks you are having problems with.

I've always thought that a person could make a "cottage industry" career,by assembling cottage industry stuff<G>

I think there were some in PE kits for older fuelers and F/C,but didn't those straps give way to entire blankets eventually?

Hey that's great! My fav is a glass of Chianti or Burgandy and some classical music. Steadies the old hands just fine.

There is also a couple additives for acrylics that you can find at Hobby Lobby & Michael's. There is a flow enhancer & a retarder. Mine are made by Liquitex, but there are other brands too.

Cool discussion.... and then he said " what about curbside" or "slammer".... <G>

I suggest the "sniff"test.If you can detect an odor of solvent,it has not fully cured and you run a risk of the clear coat drying sooner than the base. This is why so many modelers either avoid enamels in spray cans,or use an airbrush to apply them. They may also have a dehydrator to speed the curing of this paint type.

Heh-Heh Like smelly old socks Hey?<g>

You should NOT use Tamiya Lacquer over the testor's enamel.You'll have to clear with Testor's enamel clear,Or they do have an enamel safe clear Lacquer,I checked and this is what you want.It does come in a aerosol.Still I'd test on something other than your model.Light coats here would be advisable. http://www.ehobbies.com/tes1961.html

No,The only mixing I did was to dump the 1 Oz. bottle of paint into the 2 oz bottle and add 1oz of the urethane reducer pictured in the background.The paint is the Valspar/HOK stuff that was out a few years back that I never got to try,and seemed to be a real headache the way it was introduced and (lack of) marketing. They were pulled by the manufacturer.Anyway, I think the two biggest problems were they were airbrush only,and no one knew what reducer was to be used.These are enamels by the way.