Mike Kucaba

That turned out nice. I'm curious why you didn't strip the paint from the base model first though.

This link http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=37016&st=0&p=380678&fromsearch=1&#entry380678 shows the start of this and here's where its at now.

Okay,Here's another WIP. A sectioned '57 Ford.I took out about a 3/16 bite from the side of this. One thing I learned about doing a model with opening doors... Cut the doors AFTER you have the body sections back together!! Comments & Criticism welcome (with payment in U.S. dollars) I tossed in the last (early) photo with a DeSoto grille bumper to get some ideas.

Hey don't be so hard on yourself.I am a practicing member of the group in my signature!

I've been doing a series of sectioning cars lately,probably because I'm bored and recently got a new type saw that just devours plastic. I also cut a '57 Ford,but I think I took out too much(pics later). The top on the '56 is stock height and the focus of this series is to concentrate on the sectioning,and to leave the car mostly stock. This may be hard or impossible to do in models. Thanks for the comments.

Most manufacturers of RTV recommend a Sulphur- free non- hardening oil-based clay.At least the ones I used. Some artsy types who do figure sculpting an such like gaming pieces use all kinds of materials for the master. As long as it won't inhibit the RTV cure,or can be sealed to prevent it, it's pretty wide open. I've read about Bondo being used even for a mold master.

Neat little car.Did it ever become available in the U.S? AND nice organizer.Any manufacturer name molded into it? Where did you get it.

An overlooked vehicle for rodding for sure, If more looked like this,we'd all be Kroosing in one! Very nice build.

I started sectioning some models and here's the latest WIP. The front and rear roll pans are from the kit,and the doors still open.

Start by checking out the videos on You Tube,alumilite, and Smooth-on. Googling silicone rubber mold making and resin casting. Then ask lots of questions here.

Nice work. Any details about the jig itself? What are the brass looking items I see?

I think the chassis is incorrect for a 1960.It should be an X-frame,and the body does look like resin. This one looks even rougher than an R&R piece!! Try a damp rag with Lacquer on the inside of the body and see what happens to the resin.

"the strap attachments are leftover PE pieces from I-don't-remember-where..." Do they have a web-site? Nice build & very convincing weathering. I think I'll just build mine mostly stock.

I have a part-time job parking cars at the garage for the Arizona Diamondbacks baseball team.... sometimes at the end of the night I find some sealed cans of beer that someone didn't want in their car,so they toss them out.

Ok I like this a lot and will incorporate (steal) these ideas in mine. Another item that looks good on this body is a split rear window like from the '39/'37 sedan. Also You should make up several sets of those headlites for all your friends here on the board.

I (we) need details !! How was it to build? I finally bought one and went over the kit parts and decided not to build it until I get a proper work space. I'd like to try replacing some of the tubing and soldering it. That's an exceptional build!!

Definitely HOK is worth the price,but please buy some quality thinner for it and not the stuff from hardware/home centers. Use that to clean the airbrush however. My thinner of choice is PPG DTL 105 It evaporates very slow and causes the paint to flow out really nice.

Mine would be one with opening doors,hood and trunk and let's throw in the glovebox too.an incredibly detailed engine,hinges that work and look like real thing in scale. Let's also make this out of brass including a frame with working suspension.steering,and and and....... what's that nurse? ... oh it's time for my medication? Oh well Okay.

The tire name on the box being illegible is possibly because of the copyright fees. Can't help you on what brand it is,but Firestone,Goodyear and Dunlop were big in sports car racing then.

Hi Vince,I'm not claiming to have come up with that idea,it's just one of those things that I read somewhere sometime. No tax break either!

I'd fill them in.In fact it couldn't hurt to clean the metal thoroughly and scuff it with a scotch pad,then prime it. This would give a reasonably smooth surface for the mold rubber to form to.

I'd take 'em solid rather than not at all,but hollow would be best. How about vac-forming these? Your work in progress looks great by the way. (we need a "thumbs up" emoticon)

I've found that ammonia will strip Testor's and most other acrylic paints of the water based type. Also,ammonia is the recommended stripper for Future. It's stated right on the label on the bottle.

You can also use caulking backer rod (foam used when gap is too big for caulking by itself) It's like round foam rope,and comes in several diameters. Used it in the Revell slicks from their 1/16th scale fuelers and F/C.

That looks great! What was the outcome of getting your Tony Nancy wedge cast in resin? Hope that went well.I was looking to buy a few of those!