Mike Kucaba

The seller can bid against the buyer? Please explain.

It is a car people overlook in rodding,and I think R&R does that in resin. Check at Star models.

I don't know,but to confuse the subject more I have a set of HURST wheels.They have the raised H like the top one and the spokes similar to the bottom one. These came from an IMC '48 Ford kit.

It's real,and I think it's a clone or restoration of an early Kustom.

Join the casting list on Yahoo groups. I've been on it for years and you learn so much from casters that do it for a living. Get some proper equipment like a pressure pot and maybe a vacuum chamber. You'll find sources for these on google.

YOU CUT UP TWO ENTEX JAGS TO DO THAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!?????????? FANTASTIC!!!!!!!!! :D :D

"I think these arguments over cars are dumb. There are many good and many bad cars from each country and brand. If you like a certain car then you like a certain car. I get really angry when some people try to tell me that the car I like is not as good as the car they like... I'm not a violent person but sometimes I just wanna slap a dumb person." This guy sums it up for me. :(

Here's a link for one on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320707225223&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_500wt_1156 seems that it would come out a little cheaper?

Looks like it held up well for 30 years!! The tailite treatment works well on this too.

Depends what you'll pay for it. The Mini-craft kit is an older re-issue of the kit that was released by Entex many years ago,which was made by a Japan company. The Italeri kit of the same car is more detailed,but both build up nicely. I don't know if either one has any body shape issues or some other flaws.

It sounds (or reads) to me that you want to make a bulkhead? You could use one of those contour devices. They have fine diameter wires and you push this against the object where you want a shape.One side gives a positive and one gives a negative.

And to add to that,I don't think a t-bird in 1962 would have anything but an automatic.

You should polish out the glass first and reduce the size (depth) of the scratch. Be careful polishing clear plastic as it is real brittle. You usually dip the part in future and wick off excess with a papertowel then set aside to dry.Sometimes it's hard to get a place hold the part so you may have to use a brush to apply .

Aw c'mon Mark! That'll buff right out. :D

Best tip I got when participating here is to sign in and just click on "view new content"

Here's a link of a really nice cutaway drawing of a Chapparal.Hope this works? http://www.shorey.net/Auto/Miscellaneous%20Pictures/Chaparral%20%20Cutaway.jpg

I plan on getting a Tamiya stand soon,however I did not see a method that I have used sometimes. I super glue a length of plastic sprue inside the body,and when dry and secure I use a very long hemostat clamp on the sprue which holds the body. I haven't lost a body yet and this method can also be used on other components also. I gotta give credit to Leon Tefft for this .

My thoughts about Tamiya primers and the Tamiya company are thus: Having been involved in the aerosol packaging industry some years ago,Tamiya should consider packaging their sprays like the Japanese auto companies handled the "made in America" lobby. That is,ship all the components involved in their paints and sprays and get a few contract packagers to do the filling,labeling etc. I'd bet an airbrush that most of the supply problems would go away.

I was recently at Home Depot and saw that the Valspar line is being heavily promoted.They have a primer that I decided to give a try.I primed (white) several spoons and let dry overnight and then sprayed with Valspar black lacquer,Tamiya mica red, and a can of seafoam green from a company that sells on ebay called Ohio Valley Nitro,they market large spray cans of lacquer for refinishing guitars. I flooded all the sprays on the Valspar primer and the only one that crazed was the Nitro. I used another spoon and applied the Nitro in light sprays like you would if doing a model and it was okay. That concluded this test.Now i'll have to see how the primer does over a model in regards to covering detail etc.This paint was les than $4.00 a can.

Check ebay. I just paid for 5 pounds of the stuff (magic scuplt) for about $10 per pound,shipped.

Have you seen her lately?

Go to google and input dupont centari and see if the instructions come up.

I do that,and wash & prepare my salads (ala Kramer) Saves on water!

Man,you two are good! I have trouble remembering yesterday!

That should work. You really don't have to de-air large amounts of RTV anyway. I saw a vacuum chamber made from a large pickle jar a few years ago.