Mike Kucaba

Yeah! I think your right about that.I thought about mentioning personal problems,but felt there would be more on this later. I believe that what's important for the model building community is what will/has happened to all the assets. Just the metal cast detail items is a loss. I hope Tony can get thru whatever and either bring it back,or sell it to someone.

Makes me wonder if K&S tubing could be convinced that a line of Hexagonal small tubing would be an asset to their business.I remember calling and asking about 7/64" diameter tubing and they sent me 12 feet of it cut into 12" lengths. Not outrageously priced either. That IS an ingenious way of doing that Mark.

Mini-Exotics was bought out by R&D Unique years ago. Some years AFTER that,the original owner(s) of R&D sold to one of their employees the whole business. A few years later that person closed the business down.

"I wonder what the folks at Reher-Morrison were thinking?!" Contingency money?

It is a real nice kit. It has an extremely nice modern street rod chassis,but attachment points are vague.The engine is okay and has great modern GM looking OD automatic. I thought it was a replica of a Boyd car built for some tire company.

That sounds like Scott Colmer. He has done some nice work over the years and I remember that '53 LSR vette well. Wonder if he finished it.

The most important thing to remember about an airbrush is to USE IT!! If you just give it a cursory try and have failures and put it away you will never master it. #2 get a dual action one. get some spare parts with it too like extra needles for sure you will damage one first time you disassemble it.(been there,I ain't no saint). Practice,practice, Try different paint types. Put a fan by an open window,and then a box around or near it to put the subject in.You'll need to get some light in there,but you'll figure that out. There really isn't that much overspray with an AB,nothing like aerosols. good luck!!

THANK YOU!! (as a 3-M company retiree)

Well? I think there is a place called Google that should yield many sources. Some suggestions would be to type in Plastruct & Evergreen. I think they may have online service.If you have no LHS that stocks it that's about it.

I have 3 of these Bats and the only color I recall the Bat 5 being in was a graphite. I used Light Graphite by Tamiya . There were 3 Bats 5-7-&9.7 was done in a metallic blue (light) and 9 was a silver. I also ran across a Bat 11? recently. And in diecast I've seen one offered in red with numbers,but I don't know if thats for real or some fantasy.

Yo each his /her own and whatever floats yer boat,but the B/J auction,some of the attendees & the items brought for auction, remind me of an old song. "Fools Rush In" ?

I've worked all the different shifts and found the afternoon shift the most relaxing and the best for just getting things done.Now get back to those models,Don :lol

It's not so much the tape,but the whole process. Lay down the masking material as best as you can,shoot a thin coat of clear,and shoot away from the tape edge. I've done clean multi color paint edges using whatever was available way before Tamiya tape and all the newer ones were out.

YES! recently a bottle of it held -up a convenience store in New York Sorry,just couldn't resist.

Are these pics in Hemmings about current cars,restored cars, pics from the past or what? If they are current could it be that the hemi part is just a badge or some paint? Could it be that the SS/E is for EXHIBITION. If historical,the hemi Darts of yore ran SS/A or SS/B.Is There a pic of the engines in the car? How about maybe Hemmings (or whoever) pulled photos from their files? :lol:

The Dick Landy dart kit by Revell is an SS/EA . Landy and S&M ran several cars starting in '67 as per the Performance clinics.

I'm looking to replace the steering column on my '60 Starliner custom.Who makes 'em.

He would do best to try and get just the Lacquer sprays by Testor's. The Custom lacquer line where some of the colors mimic actual desired 1:1 factory colors like Grabber Green etc. and the one coat line with some really nice colors like Revving Red & Inca Gold. If he gets the enamels(solvent based) he should also keep some dehydrators in stock. I'm sure that there will be plenty of opinions about Testor's vs Tamiya sprays. IMHO BOTH company's missed the mark by not offering their sprays in bottles,considering both offer airbrushes.

I've seen shoelaces use as hose load.

Thanks,I kinda figured that I couldn't see it,but others could. As for PM'ing myself, why not? I talk to myself all the time.

How do I get that little symbol (avatar) by my avatar for PM's ? I looked all thru settings and I didn't see anything that would activate it. I'm flummoxed

OKAY! Whose compiling this stuff so we can put it into a F.A.Q. Maybe Greg can print it in the magazine? I'll throw in as a basic need: Steel Wool: several grades are nice but 0000 is my goto in prepping bodies & etc. Hate that seam on an exhaust pipe,cut off a little piece and wrap it around.A couple of strokes and that piece is smooth. :lol:

You might be able to find something in that AS line of Tamiya sprays. I know what you mean about the thick,glossy stuff. I don't know how modeler's use the engine enamels meant for 1:1 cars. I just look for something close that I can use in an airbrush.

You can shape bondo fairly easily if you catch it just as it's kicking. Believe it or not ,but in the foot care section of most large stores is a callus tool for feet that works just like the surform(cheese grater) that is used on the 1:1. It's smaller though and just right sized for model work. And even after Bondo hardens, it's no match for a 36 grit flap wheel in a drill.