Mike Kucaba

Even though I have had minimal trouble with their sprays,lately I have had some bubbling up as if the propellant gassed out after the paint "skinned over"? I don't think I'm the only one that has a problem with these sprays either. Along these lines,whenever I decant it,it sprays as well as any of the automotive lacquers I have used.

It's a 1939 ORWHAT with body by Foney & Flashy!! <G> "jes kiddin'. I think it's a fictitious custom.

My two German Shepherds.But I don't know to put them on here.

Whatever compressor you get,consider adding a 5 or 10 gallon storage tank. This will keep the on/off cycling time down on the compressor motor.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=35062 This one?

I use DuPont Vari-prime. There are other factors that cause ghosting.e.g. solvent glues,crummy styrene, and the lacquer primer itself.Other solutions I've heard of are B-I-N pigmented shellac(white) and a coat of Future,and a coat of liquid glue(like Tenax).

One thing that I've done with metallics is to add some clear to the color on the last few coats,or better still,add some color to some clear.then spray away.If some junk gets in the paint you'll be able to sand without damaging the metallic effect. I do this with airbrushing,I don't think it can be done with aerosols.

I would look for a set of headers that have the same port layout as the Olds engine in that model.

Where were they shipped from?

Regardless of the tape used,always shoot AWAY from the edge,and shoot a coat of clear to seal the edge first.

The paint came out very nice. Another option on the hood stripe would be to polish out all the paint. Lay down the stripe decal and clear over that,then mask off for the black. That could have been the flat black and you would be done. HTH

It depends on the car,but whatever,the clear plastic is much more brittle that regular styrene so be careful when you do cut it.Use a fine blade saw and go slow.You may have to make some templates too.

Man! You must have really wanted a '58 wagon BAD.< > Lots of work,but the results are fantastic.

Hi Bernard, Where did you get the wheels on this build? THX

I've been using the match grade BB's for several years.They come in a box that looks like a milk carton and have a zinc coating that seems to keep metal from flaking off. I've even used them in acrylics.

I would think that you need to order a variety of sizes.I don't think you could plumb the entire car with one size?

Me Too! Where did that frame come from? I've got a box full of those vettes and there's only so many ways to build them.

Steve, I couldn't have said it better myself!! Thanks for doing the math <G>

Thanks for the kudos. The kustom front end was easy as it's a styline part from the '50 Ford conv't. The rear end and fins are mine though. and a big thanks to JF for the chopped resin body to get the ball rolling. I do think a small sectioning job would've help the bulkiness.

Can;t much more Mainstream than that! Nice build.

Niko, Please slow on this build. This is an old tool and wasn't molded very well,especially the frame. Also,looking at the front view of the motor,it appears to my eyes that heads(not the valve covers) are on upside down.

>valve covers are not from 426 Hemi<??? Was this a sealed kit? If it was,those valve covers should be 426 hemi. Maybe you saw a different (aftermarket) set while doing research.

It is one of the nicer FE rails.My advice.... glue the body halves together and cut the cowl away as a separate piece.See Pics of other rails of that time period.

Didn't Polar Lights kit this car a few years ago? I know it's discontinued,but.... Just askin'.......

This was a resin item from F&F . Got it off ebay. I've done some mods to get it this far.I believe it's to replicate the Kustom Royal Emperor.I've redone the rear wheel well flares,added the R&M headlite bezels,opened up the tailite area, etc. etc.also not pictured some repair was required to the bumpers and grilles.It's close,but no cigar (yet).