crowe-t

I've used decals on a few cars that I sprayed clear over to seal them after they are applied. Has anyone used a double layer of decals on a body and then sprayed clear on? The reason I'm asking is I had some ALPS decals printed but I might have them laser printed. The laser printer can print white but it's a separate decal. The laser printed decals will look sharper but I'll have to apply the white decal and then the decal with the graphic.

It's been a few months since my last update. I finished painting and assembling the interior. It's painted with a mix of 2 parts Tamiya XF-59 Desert Yellow and 1 part Tamiya XF-2 Flat White. I just have to paint and install the car phone. I used Microscale black decal stripes on the seats. The body has been painted, clear coated and polished. I used Gravity Colors Anthracite Black with Gunze Mr. Super Clear. I installed the front turn signal lenses which are painted Tamiya X-26 Clear Orange on the insides. I put Bare Metal Foil in behind the lenses. The Corvette kit's windshield was a bit thick and stuck out too much. It gets installed from the outside and looked out of scale so I made a windshield out of clear acetate. The chassis, suspension, exhaust and engine parts will be painted next. Thanks for looking in.

Is the Papilio Clear Aerosol decal Fixative Spray basically the same as Microscale Liquid Decal Film? Is it OK to use on decals that are applied to a car body and then spray clear lacquer over them? https://www.papilio.com/spray clear flexible decal fixative.html?fbclid=IwAR0QFlZr1GtgxAt3ABTFc0BMQQ0zGHKokjnsLpK9nve2gmUASyrbkX8X2_g

Do you have any pictures of the windows you installed using this tape? I'd like to see how it looks on the side where the window attaches. The recess where the window attaches is very thin. About 1mm. Will this tape hold?

I tried gluing the acetate window in the frame but had to remove it. Glue seeped under the window and made a mess. I cleaned it off and will try again. The problem I'm having is the window goes in from the front, unlike most model cars where the window goes in from behind. The glue was looking a bit sloppy. Should I thin the glue with water? Maybe I should make a thin frame to go around the window to cover where the glue is?

I have Formula 560 Canopy glue. I believe it's a stronger bond than Micro Krystal Klear and Testors Clear Parts Cement. Since i already have it I'll give it a try.

Is Aleene's stronger than Micro Krystal Klear, Testors Clear Parts Cement & Formula 560 Canopy glue? Will Aleene's hold clear acetate?

Either of these will hold acetate? What type of glue is Mod Podge and Aleene's Tacky Glue?

I need to glue a window made from clear acetate in place. The problem is the clear window goes in from the outside so clear 5 minute epoxy might not be a good option since it eventually yellows. Will Micro Krystal Klear, Testors Clear Parts Cement or Formula 560 Canopy glue hold the Acetate in place?

Very nice job converting this into the Oldsmobile. Did you modify the Dobbertin rear end?

Has anyone tried making the undercarriage of a Corvette look like unpainted fiberglass using the technique described above?

I forgot to include a few things in my previous post. The steering wheel is from a Monogram 78 Corvette, the steering column and brake arm are scratch built. The rubber brake pedal is a photo etch part from The Model Car Garage 55 Chevy Photo Etch set. I'll be using the photo etch grill from the set too. I put in a belly pan behind the rear wheel tubs like the real car. The picture below of the chassis in white primer doesn't have the belly pan. The picture of the chassis painted orange has it.

Thanks for the compliment!

I've done some more work on this one. I finished the door panels and started painting the interior. The interior on the real car is vinyl with cloth on the door panels and the seats. I mixed 2 parts Tamiya Desert Yellow XF-59 with 1 part Flat White XF-2 for the vinyl and used Wooden Deck Tan XF-78 to represent the cloth. The cloth areas of the real cars' interior look a bit darker so the Wooden Deck Tan worked well. I had a fine sanding screen, used for sanding seams on sheetrock, that I used to spray on the Wooden Deck Tan. I sprayed some Testors Clear Acryl acrylic paint on the sanding screen to seal it so none of it would flake off onto the paint. I first sprayed the whole interior with the Desert Yellow/Flat White mixture and then sprayed the Wooden Deck tan through the sanding screen. After that I sprayed a very light coat of the Wooden Deck Tan over it so it doesn't look plaid. I think it helps it to look more like cloth using the sanding screen. I sprayed Testors Flat Clear Acryl on the interior. I still have to spray some Testors Semi Gloss on the vinyl areas. I also sprayed the orange on the chassis and body and painted the rear wheel tubs black. I'm waiting for a friend to make me the decal and license plate for the trunk lid. As soon as I get the artwork I'll have them printed and after they are applied I can spray the final clear on. Thanks for looking in.

Hi, Does anyone have a picture(s) of The Model Car Garage photo-etch Electric Fan and/or Detail Master photo-etch Electric Fan assembled? I'd like to see how these look assembled.

echoxrayniner - Will you be printing decals anytime soon? I contacted you about decals you were making for me and haven't heard back.

I really like how black looks with clear. After seeing all these great pictures I'm going to use a base coat/clear coat for the black car I'm painting.

The clear over the black doesn't make it look cloudy? Does it look richer?

You did a beautiful job! Do you have any pictures in daylight?

What paint and clear did you use?

A friend had said he thought black with clear looked a bit out of scale. I like how clear looks if it's not too thick. From what I see above in all these pictures clear over black looks great. I'm used to spraying base coat/clear coat lacquers. I think I'll use the clear.

Hey thanks guys for the nice words and the welcome! I'm glad to be back on this build. It's been too long and I'm really excited to get this one done. I'm still deciding whether to use gloss black lacquer or black base coat lacquer with clear lacquer for the body. I've been exclusively using base coat/clear coat on my other builds and I'm used to it so I'll most likely go that route.

It's been 7 years since I posted in this build thread. I didn't realize it was that long. I put this one down and haven't done any work on it until recently. Finally here's an update. I finished the body. All the emblems were removed, the fender flares are finished, the lower front pan is in and I scratch built the Alpha Romeo door handles that were on the Daytona. I removed the open scoop on the lower pan and put a slight raised piece in it's place. The front fender flares now wrap around the underside. I forgot to take before pictures of the lower pan. The headlight openings are all boxed in. I have a set of square headlights I got from a member here(MsDano85gt) back in 2013 that are from a Mustang kit I'll put inside after it's painted. I modified the dashboard, scratch built pedals and door panels. I doesn't show too well in the pictures but I scribed more horizontal lines in the seats and then put 1mm half round pieces, upside down, into the lines. These will have black decals applied to represent the stripes on the tan seats. I shortened the tonneau cover 5mm to match the width of the now shortened body. I also cut the tonneau cover behind the seats to see in the back. The interior of the Daytona on the show looked like this. I have a Momo steering wheel a member here(LokisTyro) sent back in 2013. I don't know what kit it's from. I made levers for the steering column with straight pins. I think they look a bit better than the molded in plastic ones. Under the hood of the McBurnie Daytonas there's flat box like pieces added to the tops of the inner wheel wells. Using reference pictures I added these in. The last picture shows the front bumpers and grill. The grill is now shortened. It's been a while since I worked on this and posted any updates. My first post explains the work I did to the body and interior to get it to fit right. I'll be working on the exhaust system and will post an update in a few days. Thanks for looking in!

I understand. I've read a few posts regarding black paint and some guys have said black looks better without clear. All my builds have clear over the color which I polish. I just wanted to get an idea of how black looks with clear. I like what I'm seeing in these pictures.

Thanks Roger and Eric for the pictures! They look great.