crowe-t

The color looks great! What type of clear did you use?

Here's a small update. I got a set of resin Weld Drag Lites from M.A.D. Modeling. I drilled holes for the alternate bolt pattern and added the center caps. I'll add the small screws around the perimeter of the rear wheels that hold the drag radials in place and possibly the valve stems.

Beautiful job on this Tom and great attention to detail! The big tires in the rear look awesome.

Thanks Carl! Everyone Have a Happy Thanksgiving!

The lower corners of the rear window frame are rounded on the '64 kit. They should be squared off. I squared them and also scribed the lines that separate the rear deck filler panel from the quarter panels. The last picture shows the lower corners of the rear window as round. Unfortunately I forgot to take more pictures of the rear of the body before I squared off the corners and scribed the rear deck filler panel separation lines. This is the best picture I have showing that.

I cut the clear windows out so they can be installed as 2 separate windows. I never liked how they look inside when they are connected. I added some styrene to the lower corners of the windshield frame to round them some more and re-scribed the frame. The lower corners out of box aren't rounded enough. The kit is missing some seam lines below the windshield frame that separate the fenders and windshield valance. I scribed these in. It shows in some of my previous pictures but I hadn't pointed this out. The last picture shows how the lower corners of the windshield frame looked and has no seam lines out of box.

Thanks! I'm having fun with this build. It's a real nice car and I want to capture the feel of it.

I appreciate that Mike!

Thanks Mike! I just measured the height of the scoop and it's exactly the height it should be. The 1:1 scoop is 4.5 inches high. I made the scoop 4.6 mm high. It's hard to tell in the pictures. The picture I posted of my friend's car is making the scoop look a bit higher.

Thanks David! Thanks for the advice about using the wire. If the styrene doesn't work I'll use wire.

To make the crease in the hood I cut small triangular shapes into a piece of photo etch with a small file. I used .5mm x .5mm strip styrene placed on a cutting mat and ran the photo etch triangular cut shape(2nd from the left) over it to get the shape of the crease. Then glued the crease onto the hood.

Thanks Chaz! My friend is taking the HD floor mats out so I won't be including them.

Thanks Walt! I applied some Plastruct Plastic Weld which sets faster than thin cement on the seat and held the half round rod(s) in place until they stuck. I used mostly 1 mm half round and some 1.5 mm for the wider pleats. It's easier to glue it to the curved areas with a thicker cement.

I added a picture of the engine in the original post. I forgot to add it when I first posted.

Thanks guys! My friend did a great job building his 442. He even painted the hood, fenders and trunk lid himself. He's a real talented guy.

Since the '67 kit has the inner front wheel wells attached to the body I had to cut them out and install them in the '64. They are much nicer than the ones attached to the '64 chassis. The '64 chassis has the exhaust, drive shaft and rear end all molded in. It's one part of the kit Round 2 should have re-tooled. I attached a picture with the hood scoop laid on the hood and a resin grill/bumper from MCW. I bought the front grill/bumper, rear bumper and tail light panel from MCW. These parts are more accurate than the ones in the R&R Resins kit. The '67 rear end has the sway bar molded in which doesn't look realist so I started removing it. I'll make a new one with styrene rod. Today I finished the hood scoop. I glued styrene to the front of the hood to re-shape it. It just needs some putty and sanding. I also added the straps on the fuel cell. Thanks for looking in. I'll post more updates soon.

I had a set of front seats from a Revell '85 Olds 442 that I'm using. I modified the seats to match the seats in my friend's 1:1 442. The '85 Olds seats already had a similar shape so it was the easiest way for me to make them. I removed all the details on the '67 kit's rear seat and used half round rods to simulate the look of a '65 rear seat. I had to leave a few pleats out but at this scale it won't be noticeable. The ends of the quarter panels are re-shaped to resemble a '65.

I'm building a '65 Olds 442 for my friend. It's going to be a model of his car. I attached some pictures of his car, including the interior, engine and undercarriage. My friend sent me an R&R Resins '65 Olds 442 and a Lindberg '67 Olds 442 to start with. The resin kit from R&R Resins isn't that great. The body is warped and the details aren't that accurate. I was considering buying a MCW(Model Car World) '65 Olds 442 but by luck Round 2 just released the AMT '64 Olds 442 Hardtop kit so I decided to use that instead of the resin body. The '67 442's chassis, interior, engine... are all much better than the parts that come in the '64 kit so I'm modifying them to fit the AMT '64 body. The 1:1 car has a custom frame and fuel cell. Before the AMT '64 kit arrived I started working on the '67 kit's parts. I cut the gas tank and rear area out of the '67 chassis and scratch built the fuel cell and surrounding frame and started making the hood scoop. The hood is a fiberglass one with a 4 inch cowl scoop from VFN Fiberglass. I'll post more pictures in the next post. I'm not sure how many I can put in a single post.

My hardtop has about the same gaps as your convertible. I looked at the body and it doesn't appear to be spread apart at the bottom. I'll be using a chassis from a Lindberg '67 Olds 442 kit so I'll just work with it to make it fit. I just wanted to make sure the body was OK.

I just bought this AMT '64 Olds Cutlass Hardtop kit. I test fit the chassis and there is a space on either side where it should meet the body. Is this normal for this kit or is the bottom of the body(at the rockers) spread too far apart?

Tim, Thanks for posting this picture. This definitely helps.

Do you have a close up picture of the dash board decal?

Has anyone used or tried KBC Diamond Finish Clear on a model body? It's a 1K Urethane. https://www.kbs-coatings.com/diamondfinish-clear.html

I use a Canon myself. I don't have a cell phone. The pictures you posted above look amazing.

Thanks for the heads up on the Alsa Corp Easy Chrome. Do you have any pictures of a car that you built with chrome parts on it sprayed with the Easy Chrome? I know you posted pictures above of the two bumpers but I'd like to see what it looks like on a car if you have any.