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This is awesome! What material did you use for the 5 point harness' belts?

Thanks Dusty! I'm looking for something a bit more affordable. I found these on Amazon. With the exception of one they have a temperature control. Is it important to have an adjustable temperature control? Is there any other feature(s) I need to look for? https://www.amazon.com/Chefman-Food-Dehydrator-Transparent-Temperature/dp/B08RHF6WH1/ref=sr_1_17_sspa?crid=3KPGEKX8BOBY&keywords=food+dehydrator&qid=1639261728&sprefix=food+d%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-17-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyRFVTN1ZLVTdFRFEwJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTk4NDU4MllMR05EVDRDQ1JIMyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTM5NzI4MUdTN01BMEs1WkMwRiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= https://www.amazon.com/Elite-Gourmet-Dehydrator-BPA-Free-Stackable/dp/B08BSQZ2LS/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3KPGEKX8BOBY&keywords=food+dehydrator&qid=1639261728&sprefix=food+d%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-4 https://www.amazon.com/Dehydrator-Professional-Circulations-NutriChef-PKFD12/dp/B00VHLXAQC/ref=sr_1_20?crid=3KPGEKX8BOBY&keywords=food%2Bdehydrator&qid=1639261969&sprefix=food%2Bd%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-20&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Countertop-Dehydrator-Adjustable-RHFD-15001/dp/B018UR4XJI/ref=sr_1_30?crid=3KPGEKX8BOBY&keywords=food%2Bdehydrator&qid=1639261969&sprefix=food%2Bd%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-30&th=1

I've been testing some new clear. It's 1K acrylic urethane clear from Duplicolor and KBS Coatings. They both claim about 48 hours for total cure and will dry rock hard. However I found that not to be the case. The Duplicolor does get rock hard after a couple of months. So far the KBS Coatings clear isn't rock hard yet after a few weeks. Will a dehydrator help to cure 1K acrylic urethane? Neither of these use a hardener so they cure by evaporation. The room I have the bodies in is a bit cold so maybe that's slowing the cure time. Can anyone recommend a decent dehydrator that doesn't cost too much?

Thanks Gerry. I ordered the window cranks from The Model Car Garage. I'll make the small handles from styrene rod but I'm still not sure what to do with some of the parts.

Can anyone who uses photo etch(PE) interior door window cranks post pictures with them installed? I'd like to see how they look and go together.

I just added a tiny drop of Testors Aircraft Interior Black to the Testors Insignia Red and it looks almost 100% on. I was hoping for something straight out of the bottle but this mixture works for me. Thanks everyone for the suggestions.

It looks close in this picture.

That's why I'm looking for something close in a hobby acrylic. I have Testors Insignia Red acrylic but it's a bit too red.

Have you used Vallejo Model Air 71.084 Fire Red or compared it to Portola Red?

Is there an acrylic hobby paint that matches Portola Red interior color?

The color looks great! What type of clear did you use?

Here's a small update. I got a set of resin Weld Drag Lites from M.A.D. Modeling. I drilled holes for the alternate bolt pattern and added the center caps. I'll add the small screws around the perimeter of the rear wheels that hold the drag radials in place and possibly the valve stems.

Beautiful job on this Tom and great attention to detail! The big tires in the rear look awesome.

Thanks Carl! Everyone Have a Happy Thanksgiving!

The lower corners of the rear window frame are rounded on the '64 kit. They should be squared off. I squared them and also scribed the lines that separate the rear deck filler panel from the quarter panels. The last picture shows the lower corners of the rear window as round. Unfortunately I forgot to take more pictures of the rear of the body before I squared off the corners and scribed the rear deck filler panel separation lines. This is the best picture I have showing that.

I cut the clear windows out so they can be installed as 2 separate windows. I never liked how they look inside when they are connected. I added some styrene to the lower corners of the windshield frame to round them some more and re-scribed the frame. The lower corners out of box aren't rounded enough. The kit is missing some seam lines below the windshield frame that separate the fenders and windshield valance. I scribed these in. It shows in some of my previous pictures but I hadn't pointed this out. The last picture shows how the lower corners of the windshield frame looked and has no seam lines out of box.

Thanks! I'm having fun with this build. It's a real nice car and I want to capture the feel of it.

I appreciate that Mike!

Thanks Mike! I just measured the height of the scoop and it's exactly the height it should be. The 1:1 scoop is 4.5 inches high. I made the scoop 4.6 mm high. It's hard to tell in the pictures. The picture I posted of my friend's car is making the scoop look a bit higher.

Thanks David! Thanks for the advice about using the wire. If the styrene doesn't work I'll use wire.

To make the crease in the hood I cut small triangular shapes into a piece of photo etch with a small file. I used .5mm x .5mm strip styrene placed on a cutting mat and ran the photo etch triangular cut shape(2nd from the left) over it to get the shape of the crease. Then glued the crease onto the hood.

Thanks Chaz! My friend is taking the HD floor mats out so I won't be including them.

Thanks Walt! I applied some Plastruct Plastic Weld which sets faster than thin cement on the seat and held the half round rod(s) in place until they stuck. I used mostly 1 mm half round and some 1.5 mm for the wider pleats. It's easier to glue it to the curved areas with a thicker cement.

I added a picture of the engine in the original post. I forgot to add it when I first posted.

Thanks guys! My friend did a great job building his 442. He even painted the hood, fenders and trunk lid himself. He's a real talented guy.