crowe-t

Excellent start! Keep it going. Vega's made great drag cars. What tube chassis are you using?

I needed to paint a body to test some new clear. I have a few Revell Beretta Pro Street kits so I decided to build one. It was supposed to be an out of box build but I got a little carried away. lol The Revell Beretta body is basically a stock Beretta. I enlarged the rear wheel openings 5 mm so it would look like a Pro Street car and I extended the hood and fenders back towards the windshield and removed the hood scoop. The blower is from a 68 Corvette kit. The rear end was goofy since there is no suspension so I took a spare 9 inch rear's housing and scratch build a 4 link and wheelie bars. The wheelie bars are more of a Pro Mod design but due to the small diameter styrene rods(1.2 mm) the cage design gives it strength. I also didn't have any 1.6 mm styrene rods so I made due. I thought it needed a rear wing so I made one from some sheet styrene. I'm holding it in place in the picture with a pair of tweezers. This kit has a Lenco which isn't too realistic for a Pro Street car so I ordered a resin Turbo 400 for it. This is about all the modifications I'm doing on this one except I might make the rear quarter windows a bit larger. The quarter window frames on this kit are too wide and make the windows too small. Here's some progress pictures.

Here's a small update. I scratch built the rear speaker that goes on the package tray and made the cutouts in the front seat bottoms for the harness belts. I started modifying a set of Small Block Chevy headers to fit the Olds 455. I picked up a couple of resin Small Block Chevy intake manifolds from Ron Coon Resins and used one to modify the stock 455 manifold. I filed down the top of the stock manifold and glued on the center section of the resin part. The picture is making it look rougher than it is. Thanks for looking in and all comments are welcome.

Can a PVA glue such as Micro Krystal Clear or Testors Clear Parts cement be used to attach photo etch emblems to a painted/polished body or is clear enamel or acrylic paint better?

Here's a fire extinguisher and MSB box I made. I put the fire extinguisher mounts on the roll bar.

Here's some more work I did today. I added the raised details and bolts to the rear end cover. The details look better in person. They are very small and hard to photograph. I made the 2 boxes between the seats and put the 'chrome' base of the shifter boot on the floor. The shifter is temporarily glued in for the picture. The picture without the dash shows the gas pedal. I added the emergency brake release lever under the dash.

Thanks Rusty!

Here's some work I did on the heads to make them look like Edelbrock heads. I started scratch building the valve covers and modified the sump on the oil pan to make it resemble a Milodon pan. I have to scribe the lines in the sump but since a good portion of the front of the pan is hidden under the cross member I won't have to re-shape that area. I scratch built the rear coil overs. I installed 1mm round brass rods on the rear end and the tops of the shocks to make installation easier after it's all painted. I also started adding the details to the rear end cover. I added some styrene to smooth out the side tanks on the stock radiator. I'll add some small bolts in the holes of the valve covers. Thanks for looking in.

Lacquer actually never fully cures. After about 1 - 3 months it's more stable and hardens. The 1K acrylic urethane takes more time but when it fully hardens it's like a rock. I'll run the dehydrator again and see what happens.

The clear lacquer is Gunze Mr Super Clear. I've been using it for a few years. I usually wait 1 - 3 months to polish it since lacquer continually reduces down over time. The urethane is from KBS Coatings and one from Duplicolor. I had sprayed the Dulpicolor 1K urethane on a body about 6 months ago and it's rock hard. I sprayed the Duplicolor on another part a few weeks ago and was hoping the dehydrator would cure it faster. I'm most surprised that the lacquer is still a bit soft after the 10 hours in the dehydrator.

I bought an Ivation 6 tray food dehydrator. I put some parts in with 1K urethane clear and also parts with clear lacquer for 10 hours at 113 degrees. Nothing cured. Some of the parts were painted a few weeks ago and the clear was still not fully cured. The dehydrator did nothing. I thought it was going to make a difference. I'm just going to return it.

Here's more progress on the roll bar. I had to extend the package tray but that will all be cleaned up. A few more details and the interior will be done.

Here's a small update. I started building the roll bar. I'm using 2 mm rods. I also started adding the pedals and the gauges on the dash board.

Has anyone used this dehydrator from Ivation? Someone on Facebook recommended it. https://www.amazon.com/Ivation-Digital-Electric-Dehydrator-Vegetables/dp/B017KSBYHC/ref=dp_prsubs_3?pd_rd_i=B017KSBYHC&psc=1 I was also looking at the Micro Make Dr Drybooth from Micro Mark but it's $169 and seems to be basically a food dehydrator.

Here's their response: "We have a minimum charge for small parts processed separately of $35.00ea or $65.00 for a 6x8in rack/tree." I'm going to get the Alsa Corp Easy Chrome kit. I can chrome many parts with it. I only have 2 bumpers to chrome now and it'll cost $70. That's crazy.

Can you post a picture of your results?

I just sent them an e-mail asking it they chrome plate resin parts. I'll post what they say.

I added the screws around the perimeter of the rear wheels that hold the tires in place. The interior is now glued together. The rear seat gave me problems. The back of the seat initially sat too straight up and down. I had to pull the seat out and file the back and bottom to angle it. It now sits the way it should. The steering wheel was slightly too far to the right by about a mm so I filled in the hole on the dash board and drilled a new hole. I also slightly widened the rear arm rests and added speakers to the front kick panels.

Hey thanks!

Thanks Stephen!

I did some work on the interior's door panels. I used 1 mm and 1.5 mm Evergreen half round rods for the pleats. I also scratch built a steering column. I started making a new package tray. The stance is just about right. My friend sent me measurements. He measured from the rims to the fender/quarter panel wheel openings. I just have to move the rear end slightly forward.

Thanks! I appreciate the picture.

I got the material from Pro Tech so I now know it looks realistic seeing it in your car. What glue do you use to attach the material to the photo etch harness hardware?

Have you used it yet?

This is awesome! What material did you use for the 5 point harness' belts?