crowe-t

I'm doing what I can to make the chassis more realistic for drag racing/Pro Street. It's what it is. Revell was trying to maximize profits by re-using this chassis in the Beretta and Corvette kits. It would have been better if I used another chassis but I wasn't planning on doing all this and I started having fun with this one and kept making changes. Once it's in the body it should be convincing as a Pro Street chassis.

Thanks Mike! It's slowly coming together.

Hey thanks! No, they don't have the Simpson parachutes in stock yet.

Here's a small update. I fit the steering column in. The dash board still needs some tweaking but it's basically done.

Thanks JC!

I've been working on some details. I made the tow tabs for the front bumper, the license plate holders, and the kill switch for the rear tail panel. I also made the remote breathers under the hood and a couple of other details. The radiator is done. I started making the power steering pump, Hurst line lock and the spacer plate that goes under the carburetor. The carburetor is from Ron Coon Resins.

I removed the two 1.6 mm styrene rods that I added that support the tubing that the coil overs attach to and made new ones that now attach to diagonal bars on the firewall. I like how it looks this way instead of how I had them going down to the chassis. The firewall now has a piece of 1 mm sheet styrene on it to smooth it out and strengthen it. I made an MSD 6AL-2 box and a Hurst Line lock.

Thanks Chris!

This is awesome! What kit did you use?

This came out great! What paint/color did you use on the body?

Thanks Anton!

They don't have any of the Simpson chutes in stock. I'll wait and see if they get some more soon. I like the Simpson ones too.

Can you just take a rough measurement of the length and width of one of the parachutes? Or hold a ruler up and take a picture?

That's OK. I'm glad I was able to find the link. What does each individual parachute measure?

How will not having the Methyl Isobutyl Ketone affect the curing? Will it keep it from getting hard?

How has the Duplicolor Paint Shop Clear worked out over time? Does it hold it's shine? Does it keep reducing down? I found that the hobby clear lacquers tend to reduce down for a very long time but that could be lacquer in general.

The parachutes look real. I'd like one for my Pro Street Beretta. Is the parachute maybe from Scale Concepts? I found this on Teds Modeling Marketplace. https://www.tedsmodelingmarketplace.com/parachute-kit-complete-1-25/ What paint/color will you be using on the Nova?

The Green Stuff World Chrome is very nice and for me it seems to be a bit more forgiving than Alclad when spraying. It still doesn't look like real chrome but more like polished aluminum.

After a few days I got back to working on this build. I got rid of the Chevy symbol and re-shaped the tin under the hood. The cutout around the engine was straight so I angled it and added side pieces that go down into the engine compartment. I also added two 1.6 mm styrene rods that support the tubing that the coil overs attach to. I'm not sure I like the angle of the two new rods which I might move. So far I'm keeping the radiator at the angle. I kind of like how it looks angled.

Hey Ron, I appreciate it.

Thanks for the picture. I suppose the Tamiya LP Smoke is the same as the spray can lacquer Smoke. Have you tried Tamiya LP Smoke or is the spray can lacquer Smoke better?

It's looking real good. What rear end is in it? Where did you get the Remove Before Flight parachute tags?

The paint on the body is incredible! Are both the Tamiya Smoke and LP Clear red on the inside of the clear lens? Did you use Tamiya X-19 Acrylic Smoke or Tamiya Smoke in the spray can? Do you have any other pictures showing the tail lights closer?

The black on the inside isn't totally opaque?

Either isoproryl alcohol or Windex will remove the Tamiya Acrylic colors. I also have a broken clear tail light part I can test on.