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crowe-t

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Everything posted by crowe-t

  1. I have a model with orange plastic parts that I'll be painting with lacquer. I don't want the orange to bleed through. I'm hoping this stuff will prevent bleeding.
  2. Is Duplicolor Primer Sealer (DAP 1699) good for stopping colored plastic from bleeding through lacquer? Does it spray on smooth?
  3. Which roll bar are you going too use? Bigfoot 1 did have a roll bar that looks like the chrome roll bar in the USA-1 kit at some point.
  4. The USA-1 kit has 2 roll bars? The chrome one and the one from the original Bigfoot kit? What are you doing for the front bumper?
  5. Excellent job on this! I like the color combination.
  6. Great job so far! Are the suspension parts from an AMT 4x4 or Bigfoot kit?
  7. This is beautiful and the paint is incredible!
  8. Since my last post I got some work done and unfortunately had to strip and re-paint the body. I had problems polishing the clear. The tail light panel is painted with Alsa Easy Chrome. I sprayed it heavier to look like aluminum. I painted Tamiya X-27 acrylic clear red in the tail lights and will use the optional custom clear red tail light lenses that came in the '64 442 kit. The fuel lines are connected to the fuel cell and the battery cables are done. The battery in my friend's 442 is in the trunk. The black wire is for the battery. I made the coiled wire for the micro switch on the steering wheel and added the line lock switch to the shifter. As I stripped the body I noticed it had started to crack along the driver's side rocker panel. I added some styrene strips on the back sides to strengthen them. The body and stripes are painted. I used MicroScale 1/64" black pinstripe decals along side the wide painted stripes. I'll be using Duplicolor Perfect Match Protective Clear Coat Finish on this. I already sprayed some over the stripes to apply the pinstripe decals.
  9. Thanks Mike. I'm still plugging away. I had to strip the paint off the body. I'll be painting it this week. Other than that almost everything else is finished.
  10. What brand of clear did you use?
  11. Thanks for the kind words! I'm not building an exact replica. This kit has its limits. I should be up to painting the body in another week or 2.
  12. Thanks Rooster!
  13. It's not a traditional engine compartment. It's for a Pro Street Beretta and is all flat areas. Nothing complex. I tried using Alclad Polished Aluminum but the Alclad Gloss Black (Enamel)Base wasn't laying down smooth so I stripped it. I then tried spraying it black and spraying Alclad Aqua Gloss Clear but I can't get the Aqua Gloss to lay down smooth on larger areas like this. I was using the Aqua Gloss as a base for Alsa Easy Chrome which doesn't work over enamel. This has been fighting me. I had tried AK Xtreme Chrome on something else and the best I got it to look is like silver paint. I've used Alclad Chrome and Polished Aluminum on other stuff and it looks great. The same with the Alsa Easy Chrome. I'm toying with the idea of using BMF instead.
  14. The firewall looks great! Is it BMF Chrome or Aluminum?
  15. Can you post some pictures?
  16. Has anyone used Bare Metal Foil on large areas? I typically use BMF on window trim and small areas. I'm considering using it in an engine compartment to make it look like polished aluminum.
  17. Tom and Carl thanks for the nice words.
  18. I painted the front inner fender wells black and also painted the grill black. I painted some Tamiya Clear orange on the front turn signal lenses in the front bumper. I have a Photo Etch piece with OLDSMOBILE lettering that'll be glued in between the headlights as well as a Photo Etch 442 emblem for the grill. The front grill/bumper is a resin part from Model Car World. I sent it to Little Motor Kar Company for the chrome plating. Dale did a great job chroming the resin. I sprayed Tamiya Gold Leaf on the oil pan and proportioning valve. Then I followed with a 50/50 mix of Tamiya Clear Yellow and Clear orange sprayed over it for a gold anodized look. In person they look a bit deeper and a touch more orange than the picture is showing. The headers are painted with Alsa Easy Chrome over Alclad Aqua Gloss Clear. The base color is gray primer. The wheels are painted Alclad Polished Aluminum over Alclad Gloss Black Base. The anodized fittings and fuel pump were done with Tamiya Clear Red and Clear Blue. I used Alclad White Aluminum on the intake manifold.
  19. Mike and David, I appreciate it. I've been taking my time with it. This coming week I'll work on the Bare Metal Foil, emblems and start putting it together.
  20. It's been a few weeks since my last update. I got some more work done. I painted the exhaust system. I first painted it with Alsa Easy Chrome. I then sprayed Alclad Aqua Gloss over the Easy Chrome and sprayed Tamiya Acrylic Clear Yellow over it to give it the color of straw. The main part of the exhaust in the car is stainless and it turned the color of straw. I then polished the Tamiya Clear Yellow a bit with Meguiars Scratch-X to blend it in so it doesn't look like candy paint. The silver parts of the exhaust and the mufflers are painted Alclad Aluminum. I placed the fuel cell and rear framing on for the pictures. It all has to be glued in place. I painted the engine, bell housing and transmission. The engine is Tamiya Acrylic Gold Leaf with some XF-64 Red Brown added to darken it a bit. The bell housing is Tamiya Acrylic Flat Red and the Transmission and heads are Alclad White Aluminum with a dark wash over it. I took some mock up pictures to get an idea how it sits.
  21. Which glue is a better bond for PLA parts, CA or Epoxy?
  22. These wheels look great! What technique do you use for spraying the enamel and chrome paint in the deep dish wheels. I tend to get a bumpy texture spraying deep dish wheels.
  23. I did some more work on the interior. I attached the photo etch door handles and window rollers I got from The Model Car Garage. The small Oldsmobile symbols on the door panels are PE keychains in the 1966 and 1972 Oldsmobile 442 PE sets from The Model Car Garage. The fire extinguisher is mounted on the roll bar as well as a roll bar pad on the horizontal bar behind the front seats. I got the roll bar padding from Pro Tech. I glued in the boxes on the transmission tunnel and the MSD box under the dash board. The 5 point harnesses from Futurattraction are now assembled and installed and the roll bar and seats are glued in. I attached a picture of one of the front seats showing the harness from my friend's 442.
  24. When using Alclad Gloss Black Base ALC-305 does it need to go over primer or can it be sprayed straight on the bare surface? I'm going to spray some resin wheels with Alclad Polished Aluminum.
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