crowe-t

Which spray booth do you have?

It's been a while since I posted an update. I had to start over with a new body. The passenger side a-pillar kept breaking so it was easier to start over. I did my best to correct the side bulges on the fenders and quarter panels. I also applied the molding and the over laps for the vinyl top. I'll be using black textured paint from Model Car World for the vinyl top. The paint is Autumn Gold from Gravity Colors. It's a better color than I first used. The stripe decals are from Keith Marks. The body has clear sprayed on which I will polish soon. I researched the under side and found that the Atlanta built '70 Chevelles' had a medium greenish-gray primer followed by body color overspray and some undercoating in the transmission tunnel and in and behind the rear wheel wells. For the greenish-gray primer I used Tamiya Acrylic paints. I mixed 1 part XF-12 J.N. Grey, 1 part XF-19 Sky Grey and 2 parts XF-2 Flat White. It has a slight greenish tint under different lighting but mostly looks gray. I painted the gas tank with Alclad Dark Aluminum.

I'm looking at spray booths. It's easier for me to get one already built and the Pace Peacekeeper 24-Inch Mini-Plus is a good price. Is the Pace Peacekeeper 24-Inch Mini-Plus a good spray booth? Does it keep the odor(s) out when spraying lacquer?

I have Chevy Engine Red from Model Car World(MCW). Mike at MCW said he couldn't find a formula for Chevy Orange. He thought Chevy Orange was just the Chevy Red mixed differently. I'm sure there is an actual Chevy Orange especially since they sell it in spray cans for real engines.

So the Chevy engines in the 60's were the red-orange color and not orange? I always remember back in the day everyone I knew who had a mid to late 60's Chevy and rebuilt and painted a Chevy V8 used Chevy Orange. I guess they were wrong.

Incredible work RicK! I can't wait to see this one finished.

What did you do to modify the Daytona chassis' back half? Is the Daytona an MPC kit?

Should red oxide primer look brown or more red? Has anyone used Dupli-Color Sandable Red Oxide primer? Is it more red looking?

Made a great trade with Khils(Kevin).

Dull Cote seems like it won't look like vinyl. I agree Semi Gloss should look more correct.

Gunze makes Mr Super Clear Flat and Clear Semi Gloss. Would Semi Gloss clear be better for spraying over the interior metallic or be too shiny?

Does Testors Dull Cote get yellow over time. A while ago someone told me it can yellow. I mainly use Gunze Mr. Super Clear UV Cut Clear Gloss for car bodies. Mr. Super Clear also comes in a flat clear. Would that be the same as the Testors Dull Cote?

The paint I tried is base coat lacquer from Gravity Colors so it sort of needs a clear coat. I guess I can use it without the clear. I tried using Testors Acryl acrylic semi gloss clear but it has an almost cloudy appearance over the lacquer. I never used Testors Dull Cote but since it's lacquer it shouldn't have a cloudy appearance.

What paint did you use on this one? Is it lacquer? I really like how it looks. Is this one sprayed with Testors Dull Coat? Do you use the Testors Dull Coat in the spray can or the Dull Coat in the bottle for airbrushing? I never used Testors Dull Coat so I don't know if the spray can and the bottle are exactly the same stuff.

I need to paint an interior in a '68 Camaro in possibly a metallic paint. The body will be Grotto Blue and the interior is a metallic darker blue. A friend suggested I use Chevrolet LeMans Blue metallic for the interior. It seems to be a good match. However on the small sample I sprayed the metallic looks like it might be out of scale for an interior. I sprayed some Testors Acryl semi gloss on the LeMans Blue sample but it dulls the deep color. Has anyone who used a metallic paint on an interior have any suggestions for a clear coat? Since the LeMans Blue is lacquer basecoat maybe I should just use it with no clear. Would I be better off just using a non-metallic paint?

I was referring to where the firewall meets the floor. There is an open space in the middle.

When you build an AMT 1968 Camaro do you leave the transition between the lower firewall and floor alone or fill that in? The interior tub has part of the lower firewall and it's not finished off. I hope this all makes sense.

I found this site in the link below: https://www.chevydiy.com/how-to-paint-your-chevy-camaro-restoration-guide/ Here's a quote from this Camaro Restoration guide in the link with a picture. Is the gray they are referring to primer? It looks like semi-gloss black paint is in the transmission tunnel. The rear frame rails are misted with body color. Depending on what you are looking for a finished product, you can paint the underside of your car all one color or you can paint it semi-gloss black and gray with body- colored overspray on the sides to replicate the factory finish. The 1967, 1968, and 1969 models all had different finishes. (Photo courtesy Brian Henderson)

Did the rear inner wheel wells have black undercoating or were they the red oxide primer?

What color were the rear chassis rails?

Since a 1968 Camaro has a unibody back half would the rear chassis rails be painted the color of the floors(i.e. - primer with body color overspray) since they are part of the floors? I believe Chevrolet used red oxide and dark gray primer on the undercarriage. Can anyone confirm this?

Yeah that sounds good. I was looking for the dimensions of a real 1:1 Camaro but since MPC had accurate dimensions that'll work.

I already found your tutorial and made all the changes. I also re-scribed the bottoms of the 2 doors higher on the rocker panel. The bottom line is too low on the kit. I still have to add the marker light frames and fix the moulding on the top of the doors.

You are absolutely correct. I just changed my posting to 'RS'.

The seller just sent me these pictures of the grill in an AMT body. It looks like it fits well.