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Robert at Chrometech said to sprat Testors Wet Look Clear on the modified bumper. In my experience Wet Look Clear or any clear lacquer does not lay down glass smooth out of the spray can.

I have a part I modified and will have chrome plated. I'll polish it with micromesh cloths and plastic polish. I was told to spray Testors Wet Look Clear on it. In the past when I used Testors Wet Look Clear on a car body I had to polish out the slight orange peel. Will spraying a small part not have any orange peel? Is it necessary to spray a clear lacquer over the part before sending it to be chrome plated? Has anyone had modified parts chrome plated?

Excellent job Al!

I found this stuff from Bob Smith Industries. It's odorless CA. I contacted them and they said it works on clear acrylic, clear acetate and clear styrene and won't fog them. http://www.bsi-inc.com/hardware/super_gold_plus.html

I tried priming with Tamiya Fine Surface Primer and it adheres very well to the resin. Since it's formulated for plastic models it seems to adhere better to resin too.

What's a good primer for resin parts? I tried some Duplicolor Filler Primer but it didn't adhere too well. It could have been some mold release on the resin. I'm thinking Tamiya Fime Surface Primer will work better on the resin.

I have Surehold Plastic Surgery Super Glue. Ir works on most plastic including acrylic. It might be too brittle like most CA glue and fog the clear acrylic. I can tape over the acrylic which should protect it from the vapor as it's curing.

I only have a small space to work with and there is only a small amount of flex to the resin to pull the rod out. I have to glue one side at a time. I can't fully remove the rod to roughen it. The rod is rounded and a bit rough where it gets inserted into the resin. I found this Loctite Epoxy online. It says it's for all all types of plastic(PVC, polycarbonate, acrylic, ABS, FRP, Nylon, Mylar, Delrin, phenolic, aluminum and stainless steel). I'm thinking this will work better than regular epoxy.

I was thinking the same thing. Super Glue will most likely fog the clear rod.

I'm working on a Sci-Fi project. It's a resin laser pistol from the 1980's TV show V. This is made from a mold of a screen used prop. I sprayed a couple of light coats of Duplicolor Filler primer on and it didn't stick too well. It could have been some mold release still on the resin. I used a toothbrush and some 91% Isopropyl Alcohol to remove the primer. The clear acrylic rod at the top came loose from the resin. It doesn't go too far into the resin so I can get glue inside. What glue works on acrylic? I also need something that'll stick to the resin.

It does look lighter.

Is anyone familiar with Tamiya TS-66 UN Gray? Is it lighter than TS-48 Gunship Gray?

The Gunship Gray is about the color I'm looking for.

I think I'm going to try the Tamiya TS-48 Gunship Gray.

I'd like to use a lacquer. I do have Duplicolor Sandable Gray primer which is the color I need. I was concerned it wouldn't be that durable even with clear coat. I'll have to test it. Tamiya TS-48 Gunship Gray might work too.

Does anyone know off hand of a solid (NOT Metallic) Dark Charcoal Gray Automotive Paint? Possibly a paint code? I need this for a project.

Thanks guys for the help with this. This is the 1st time I'm using HOK Kandy paint. Gerry, I'm trying to achieve a medium reddish-brown color. I can't really reduce the Root Beer too much or it will turn red. The Root Beer really makes the color dark. I think it's just the scale of the model. Root Beer on a 1:1 car outside in daylight will look lighter than a 1/25 scale model indoors. I did try a mix today using Goldmine Pearl instead of Copper Pearl and it's right in the ballpark of where I want the color. I have to look at it again tomorrow. If only the sun would come out I could get a better looks at the color. Steve, I like your idea of using more thinner. The extra clear will just make more work.

The Easy Off with the yellow cap seems to be the correct one to use to remove paint. I have the Jeep bodies soaking in the Super Clean and the Tamiya Fine White Primer is loosening a bit. I've had to scrape the paint with a toothpick to scrape off the primer but it's taking a lot of time. Will the Easy Off work faster and loosen the paint/primer more?

I'm trying to do a mix of House Of Kolor Kandy Root Beer, Tangerine and Copper. I'm keeping it more on the brown side but it looks very dark. If I add clear to the mix will it lighten the color?

I picked up the real Super Clean and I have the Monogram Jeep bodies soaking in it. How long should they soak before the Tamiya Fine White primer will start coming off?

If you can find a picture from inside looking towards the rear showing the spare tire support cross beams that would really help.

Dan, This is a great picture! Do you have one from the opposite angle showing where the spare tire attaches?

I haven't seen a 3rd Generation Econoline in a while. If anyone owns one and can post some pictures that'll be great.

I'll pick some Super Clean up. What about the oven cleaner or brake fluid? Should I try one of those or stay away from them?

I have 2 Monogram Jeep bodies with Tamiya Fine White Primer from the spray can, that I've been soaking in 91% Isopropyl Alcohol for about a week or so. At one point I put them in a tub of Clean Rite Purple Power but the Purple Power didn't remove anything. Will Super clean be effective on removing the Tamiya Fine White Primer? Should I try Oven Cleaner or Brake fluid or just pick up some real Super Clean? A friend said the oven cleaner and brake fluid both tend to dry out the plastic.