crowe-t

Beautiful job! The paint shines like glass. What color is it painted? Can you post pictures of the chassis and interior?

Thanks!

David, You did a beautiful job on Drag-U-La! What 'gold' paint/color did you use on the body? What paint/color did you use on the frame? Mike.

Ron, The body looks real cool! Get a can of Filler primer and shoot a few heavy coats on and start sanding with 320 or 400 grit paper. You will have to repeat this over a few times. I talked with some guys on the TDR facebook page and they said using superglue is harder and details will get lost. A high build filler primer is easier to use. You actually don't need to clean the White Strong & Flexible(nylon). Tim who runs TDR said you only have to clean the Frosted Ultra Detail material. Don't bother sanding it until you apply the primer. The nylon doesn't take well to sanding.

This is such an impressive build!

Beautiful job Paul! Lee Shepherd is my all time favorite Pro Stock Driver.

Really nice paint job!

Thanks for letting me know!

I need to install a plastic DC Power jack in a model. I picked up Plastic Surgery CA that's formulated for dissimilar plastics to glue it in and I would like to pack either Aves Epoxy Sculpt or JB Weld around the jack for reinforcement. What's a stronger bond? Aves Epoxy Sculpt or JB Weld?

Dave, Thanks for all these great pictures! These definitely help. Mike.

Ron, The TDR 2013 Pro Stock Camaro I posted above is the 1st 3D printed body I got. The White Strong & Flexible(WSF) material does have a grainy surface. This attached picture shows the grain. I am using Duplicolor Filler primer on the body. If you also got the WSF material you don't have to clean it. Just spray on high build filler primer and sand. Don't even bother sanding the body first, just spray the primer on and after it cures sand the primer. I am using 400 grit paper and wet sanding. This procedure(priming and sanding) will have to be done a few times depending on how much grain is on the body. As long as you follow the body lines while sanding the details will stay. The 3D printed WSF bodies aren't as easy to work with as a styrene body but after you start priming and sanding you'll see it start smoothing out. My 2013 Pro Stock Camaro is just about all smoothed out and looks good. I'll take more pictures over the weekend and post some.

It's 3d printed White Strong & Flexible nylon.

Thanks!

I recently got a body from TDR! I got the 2013 Pro Stock Camaro in White Strong & Flexible material. It has a grainy surface so I'm using Duplicolor Filler primer to smooth it out. It takes some priming and sanding a few times but smooths out nicely. The picture in primer is almost done. I still have to finish sanding and maybe another coat or so of primer.

Erica's car had the hood scoop. I'm building Bo Butner's car as it appears now and showed the pictures to give Alan an idea.

I'd like the front end to be able to go on and off but I'd still like it to look accurate.

Thanks Bill and Scott! Scott, I like your idea of pinning the front end before it's cut off. Everything on your Fairmont seems to line up nicely this way. I have a 1/24 3D printed 2013 Pro Stock Camaro body from TDR Innovations that I'll be building as Bo Butner's current Pro Stock Camaro. I'll most likely not make the doors open but since the modern Pro Stocks don't have a removable hood I think making the front end removable to see the motor is a good idea. The 3D printed body is in the White Strong & Flexible material and is quite strong. As soon as I finish smoothing out the body I'll start attaching it to a 1/24 Revell Firebird Pro Stock Chassis.

Thanks Scott! I still have to work out a few things. I'll start a thread then.

Thanks Henry! It's a little further on now and is smoothing out nicely. Once a couple of coats of high build filler primer is sprayed on and it's sanded it already starts smoothing out. It's a bit more work but definitely worth it. This Pro Stock Camaro from TDR is real nice and accurate looking.

I posted this here since it's more of a drag car feature. For a 1/25-1/24 scale build what's a good way to make a front end clip removable? Where is best to attach it? Any tips, advice or pictures will be appreciated.

Comp Resins makes a 2012 Pro Stock Camaro in 1/25 scale but it won't be accurate to Erica Enders 2015 Camaro. http://www.compresins.com/site/751597/product/CR-5025 TDR Innovations makes a 2013 Pro Stock Camaro that is far more accurate to Erica's 2015 Camaro. It's available in a variety of scales. https://sites.google.com/site/tdrhtmllearn/home/body-shop/all-tdr-drag-racing-bodies/2013-pro-stock-camaro I'm currently working on a build of Bo Butner's Pro Stock Camaro that he's driving this season. I'm using the Revell/Monogram 1/24 Firebird Pro Stock kit for the chassis, engine... I recently got a TDR Innovations 3D printed 2013 Pro Stock Camaro body in 1/24 scale which is the same wheelbase as the 1/24 Firebird Pro Stock chassis. It's printed in White, Strong & Flexible and does have a sand like texture. The FUD material would have been too brittle for a body and cost twice as much so I got the WSF material. I picked up a can of Duplicolor Filler Primer and started applying some coats and wet sanding with 400 grit sandpaper. After 2 sandings it's almost all smooth. Another couple of coats of primer and one more time sanding should smooth it all out. I also removed the hood scoop and filled in the opening with sheet styrene and some Squadron white putty. It's actually a bit further along than the picture(in primer) I posted but it should give you an idea.

Is it OK to use a dehydrator if the body has body work(i.e. - modifications, added plastic, putty...) The reason I ask is I once tried using a hair dryer on a part that had putty and some plastic added and an impression of the puttied area came through the paint layers.

Scott, I'll keep a look out on your web site. However I still need the Weld Delta 1 rears. I should be able to get the set of 4 from Micro Nitro but if I can't I'll contact you.

Thanks guys! After I posted this I found the name of the front wheels. The Pro Track wheels are close but not spindle mount. JDS makes fronts but the wheels are about 2 mm too large in diameter. 3D Model Specialties makes the Delta 1 that are 3D printed. The new owner of Micro Nitro has been posting and said he's getting up to speed and to send him a PM to let him know what is needed. They have the Weld Delta 1 and Aluma Star fronts offered as a set and are made for regular models. If he can't make them then I'll get the Delta 1's from 3D Model Specialties(Shapeways) and I'll have to make the JDS wheels work.

Thanks guys! I'll do some more detail painting on the motor but it's not as important on this build. I had to do a touch up on the body's clear coat so it'll be a few more days till I can finish polishing it.