crowe-t

Awesome Scott!

I recently got paint from Matt and they are the best spraying and smoothest paints I ever used. Matt's customer service is second to none.

The Revell Beretta Pro Street is a nice kit. Most of it is based on the Dobbertin J-2000. I have a Dobbertin J-2000 and it's very accurate to Dobbertin's car. Revell did an amazing job on it BITD.

Does anyone, other than Slixx, make decals for drag slicks and front tires? Thanks, Mike.

I tested spraying Gravity Colors lacquer paint today with my Iwata Eclipse airbrush. It's the best paint I've ever used. It levels out and is completely flat, as smooth as glass. It was almost hard to believe how good it sprays. It's incredible paint.

Were they still running distributors with MSD boxes in the late 80's and early 90's?

Does anyone know if the Pro Stock cars in the 1980's ran magnetos or distributors?

Thanks John!

Does anyone have an e-mail address for Little Motor Kar Company?

Thanks Peter!

Is Little Motor Kar Company still in business?

Thanks guys! hopefully I'll get some paint on the body this coming week. I'll post more pictures soon. Mike.

I got the body almost ready for paint. The sides of the front fenders were not cooperating. Since I tapered the doors the fenders had to be narrowed so the plastic got thin. I had backed them with sheet styrene but I couldn't get them straight. No matter how much I sanded them, with a sanding stick, they remained wavy. I was originally making the 'lip' that overhangs along the top of the fenders by shaping putty. That wasn't working out so well. After trying to make this work for the last couple of weeks I decided to attack this from another angle, so to speak. I cut the outer fenders off of what remained of the Jo-Han '64 Deville's body(blue plastic). I cut out the outer fenders from the ambulance and inserted the Jo-Han Fenders. I re-shaped the sides to blend in with the ambulance body and extended the 'lip' with some .4 mm styrene strips. This worked so much better than shaping putty and the Jo-Han outer fenders' plastic was thick enough to re-shape and they are nice and straight now. The rear door pillars are now installed, the door is re-scribed and the door handle was removed and moved inward a bit. I also added the crease towards the bottom of the rear door. I added the side moldings, moldings around the high-top and the other various details including the crosses on the rear pillars. The gas cap door is also added in the back next to the rear door. In the interior I sanded down the pattern on the front seats and added some raised seams and removed the cell phone from the transmission tunnel. The Jo-Han steering wheel is mounted on the Ecto-1's steering column but won't be glued into till it's painted. I modified the rear attendants seats. They were molded in as one piece and had no details. I separated the tops from the bottoms and used corrugated styrene sheet to simulate a ribbed pattern on the seats. I taped the rears seat's top on for these pictures. It'll be glued in after it's painted. I also added some other details such as the air vent with a piece of HO scale open grate platform from Tichy Train Group. The cabinet is scratch built using some reference pictures of one from a 1963 Superior ambulance. I started to make an oxygen tank to go in the top of the cabinet but it still needs some work. i have to add the air vent to the driver's side quarter panel and I can start prepping the body for paint. I wanted to show these pictures of the body before it was fully in primer. Thanks for looking in and all comments welcome. Mike. IMG_7826 by Michael Scarola, on Flickr IMG_7830 by Michael Scarola, on Flickr IMG_7834 by Michael Scarola, on Flickr IMG_7852 by Michael Scarola, on Flickr IMG_7848 by Michael Scarola, on Flickr IMG_7849 by Michael Scarola, on Flickr IMG_7846 by Michael Scarola, on Flickr IMG_7847 by Michael Scarola, on Flickr

I just received an MPC Dyno Don Pro Stock Pinto kit and it came with a set of Perry's Resin replacement Dyno Don P/S Pinto decals. Has anyone used these decals from Perry's Resin? Are they any good or should I just buy a set of the Dyno Don Pro Stock Pinto decals from Slixx?

Dave, if these pictures were taken outside it could easily be mistaken for a real car! The level of detailing is amazing. Thanks for posting these pictures. Mike.

Thanks Chuck! Dyno Don's Pinto looks like a regular red in most pictures but does at times look to have an orange tint. I have a feeling it was painted either Poppy Red/Calypso Coral or Bright Red. So far I'm leaning towards Bright Red.

Here's another picture of one of Dyno Don's Pinto's. The color looks red. Isn't Poppy Red more of an orange color?

It's been awhile since I posted this thread. I'll finally be getting around to this project. If anyone has anything new to add regarding the 'red' color please post.

Dave, did you ever finish this one?

Scott, this is a fantastic build! I just read through all your posts and am in awe of all the details you are adding. Seeing all these details that are so accurate at this scale is beyond impressive. Everything from the stance, framework, suspension, the open doors... is perfect! I'll be watching this one till the end. Mike.

Thanks Nick and Steve! Steve, The '61 Buick looks incredible! What type of paint is that on the Buick? Is it MCW paint? Someone had said that the foil under tape method works best under enamels. I'll be using MCW lacquer paint. Mike.

I'm currently working on a 1964 Cadillac Ambulance. I'm using the hood from a Jo-Han 1964 Cadillac Deville. What's a good method for detailing the 'Cadillac & V shaped' emblems on the front of the hood? Is BMF the best way to go after it's painted. These emblems are very small.

Very nice!

Flashpoint's 68 Camaros and 68 Firebird were nice. I wouldn't mind building one of those.

Does anyone know what year NHRA Pro Stock cars started using Fuel Cells instead of the regular gas tank?