Scale-Master

And now the front wing is done.. Had to repaint the Shell lettering after the decals cracked under the Tamiya clear. C/F is SMS. Goodyears are a pair I made.

Some of those Lindberg kits were old re-pops of 40 year old IMC kits (and that was some 10 years ago). Some were brand new tooling 10-15 years ago. You can't paint all of the Lindberg releases with the same "detail & quality" brush...

That is quite a friend you have there... I'm willing to bet that kit is someone's holy grail...

I had some paint issues that necessitated stripping some parts and sanding out others and repainting them. The rear wing end plates had to be stripped and I had to make replacement decals since they are not available from Tamiya now. The C/F decals are SMS. A few more days of cure time and maybe I can assemble the rear wing I started about a year and a half ago…

I would ask Galaxie again before contacting MicroScale. If it is as you say, there should be no problem getting replacements no matter how many kits you got that were missing decals. The printer (MicroScale) is not in the business of stocking product and should not be providing replacements in lieu of the the kit manufacturer (Galaxie). Just as you would not get any from the the decal artist (Scale-Master) who drew the sheet even though they may have some...

Wasn't part of the low sales of that Mustang due to them replicating a convertible with the hardtop up? It wasn't a true coupe. Other critiques were that the engine, while it looked good assembled, went together differently than traditional American V8 models, so it wasn't recieved well by the mainstream American car modelers. Could you imagine what the response would be if they did a NASCAR kit?

Pretty cool, but I'd rather have that Cheetah!

That is not a nice name to call a woman, especially your girl...

Yes, the C6 is all electric, with manual "escape" release latches so you can get out if the battery dies with you in the car. Even the exterior latch is actuated electrically by a button. Scary hunch... And yes, F78 14s were the "big" tire from the factory on my Vista Cruiser. 245/60R15 & 255/60R15 was a much needed improvement.

I have complete confidence in you being able to pull this off Phil. Whether the real car is competitive or not, it sure looks wicked and wild.

How did you deduce that is my house Dave? I just noticed you can see my late Golden Lab Rocky through the back side windows of the Vista Cruiser... I sure miss that dog. And thanks Sam, I "loaned them to it" from my Camaro for a while. It drove way better on the 15 inch Rally rims than the stock 14s with skinnys.

That is really cool! I like the attention to detail and how you got it all to fit in such a compact and believable package.

Incredibly beautifully clean! That is slick!

Two or three strands are from Detail-Master, but most of it is from my local electronics supply store... I'm always looking for fine wire...

If you want to remove all the paint, chemical strippers work great. Jasco brand is available at most hardware stores. Heed the warnings on the can, and don't use it on anything plastic. I understand there is an article regarding this exact subject in the current Model Cars Magazine...

High humidity effectively raises the compression, water does not compress. That can cause a higher load to trip the breaker. Sounds like you figured it out. Draining the tank is good advice.

You named the cat Lifesaver? Danno, I totally missed that... Sadly I even thought about it for a minute... At least I knew where the thread name came from. One of my favorite lines is "He hates these cans!"

I machined a set of intake horns from 6061 aluminum. Rear view mirror has been installed too… I see I have collected a good bit of dust settling into the fender crevasse from having it in the machine shop area during the making of the intake horns… Bent my turn indicator lever too!

I also have noticed that a significant percentage of these "professional defenders" don't really post much except as instigators or comedy relief players if you will. Not a whole lot in the way of actual building being shared. I realize it is not a rule to have to be a builder or to have to share what you build to be part of the group here. I am not trying to sir anything up, just pointing out an observation...

Uhhh, I have the reciepts for them Danno... Steal a 92 cent toy car? What am I missing?

Agreed. But there is something else I have noticed. What I see more often than the actual builder/thread starter lashing out or defending their work (while it does happen...) is people jumping in who are not directly involved with the model at hand, (other than the "critic") under the guise of "defending" the builder/thread starter, and causing causing much of the ruckus. (Can be defined as pot-stirrers.) Example: Someone asks a question or makes a legitimate comment about the model or subject at hand. Someone other than the builder/thread starter makes some retort insinuating the comment was (often incorrectly assessed to be) negative or uncalled for, and we're off. Many times the person that the original comment was offered/made to is not even involved in the resulting mess. If nobody "came to their defense", it is likely no flame war would erupt. If people, especially and primarily those not involved constructively in these conversations, could refrain from creating a false sense of animosity, I don't think we would have these problems. Can we get Harry's description inserted into that caveat about comments header? It makes it clear enough.

Exhaust system is installed. Thanks for the offer Mr. Taylor, but I went another route... The rims were narrowed, the offset was changed and the ride height was adjusted so it has some clearance. Has as much clearance in the front end as my real Z/28, I’m fine with it now. Good thing I used the really stiff springs…

The mufflers were machined from 7075 (for the stainless looking parts, better shine, and the brackets, stronger material for delicate parts), and 6061 for the rest. Wire and PE nuts were used for the hardware that holds the baffles and rear face in. The inlet side is offset to tuck the mufflers in close to the car.

Brandon, Maybe if you posted some of your work along with these offerings of "how to do it" other people could see what level of results your suggestions might yield? I am also curious if you are actually "practicing what you preach" or just compiling and parroting what you have heard or read elsewhere. Much of your info is incomplete and some is just plain bad advice. Offering advice should come from actual working knowledge of the subject(s) at hand. FWIW, I advise against those cheap brushes. Buy one or two good sable brushes and take care of them. Windsor Newton is a good and easy to find brand. You may have to go to an art supply store if your hobby shop does not carry a similar quality item. I build quite a bit and do a lot of hand painting and a $7.00 brush will last me for 6-8 months of prime use before being relegated to less detailed tasks...

Wow! I thought I could build fast. That is amazing!