JustBill

This is a old school looking build. The paint color kinda modernizes it. I love the little touch you put on the wheels. What wheels did you use? Very cool car! As fast as you built it, its very clean and classy. Great job!!

Welcome! New to the forum but what about the hobby? Got anything to share with us? Folks can be very helpful and kind here. They offer just about any kind of model subject you can think of. What you into?

Wanted to wish you a Happy Birthday!! You were one of the first to welcome me to the board and I thank you!!

PM Replied!!

I did these cars using the glue trick.... Also too, you might want to get whats called Solvaset. I would still clear the decal sheet like in the other method but with this stuff you won't need glue. Just put some of the Solvaset on the body where the decal will go, place your decal down, pat it dry and make sure its flat and straight, then put some Solvaset over top the decal and leave it alone!! The decal will do its own thing from there. The decal will get wrinkled up and look ruined. Just give it some time to dry and it will lay flat like its painted on. This stuff is awesome exspecialy for any curves and roof flaps and such. Its like the decal gets sucked onto the body!!

MAN!!! After looking at those pics your dealing with typical Monogram decal BS. Nothing will frustrate you more or turn a good build into ###### then having a bad decal job. At least for me anyway! I'm a fan of NASCAR nineties and its mostly all I build. This is the best your gona get with the kit decals. I've even had this problem with after market decals. The trick I explained up top is something that was taught to me and I'm just passing on the good word. The reason you want to clear coat them first is to keep them together while handling. These old decals are very brittle and will break apart or even sometimes shatter when they hit the water. However after you clear coat them it turn the sheet into one big decal! So that's why you have to cut the decal out as close to the print as possible. It also looks better too so you don't have all that clear decal paper around the image. Here is an example of the same thing I had to deal with before I learned the glue trick...

Thats a very clean looking build you got going! As far as the milkyness under the decals.... it may be "silvering" instead of milky. Could you post some pics?? Not much you can do with the decals that are on already. However, take the rest of the sheet and put a couple very light coats of testers clear coat on them. Let them dry over night. Then cut your next decal out of the sheet as close to the print as possible. Let it soak in some warm water til it loosens. Once it loosens, take some regular old white elmers glue that you used back in elementary school and put a dab on the body were the decal goes. Take a brush and dip it in the water and swirl the glue around on the body. You want to use the water on the brush to thin the glue. Place your decal on the body and work the glue and water out from behind the decal. I use my brush and paper towel to set the decal and remove excess glue. Don't worry if you don't get the glue out 100% cause it drys clear Just make sure the decal is flat and no wrinkles and is on straight. You don't have to worry about getting all the excess glue off the body right away either. Let it dry completely then you can go back later with a wet paper towel and wipe the body clean and it won't bother the decal. Hope this helps. Let us know if you have any other questions!!

What is it your looking for exactly? NASCAR, dirt cars? I'm assuming nascar considering the forum you posted in. Try Machined Aluminum Specialties Pro Tech Model Products Nascar Modeling FAQ These are some spots you can try out along with whats already been listed. Any other questions please feel free to ask!

Interior looks Great!! Nice job on an obscure build.

Very nice Jim. I really like the body color and the extra touches you put into it!

I had the pleasure of seeing this in person over the weekend. Its an absolute piece of art. Very well done my friend!!! You should be proud.

Some of you guys do some outstanding work! I'm in all! My contribution....... Cool thread!

Slightly green?? I bet that thing looks crazy out in the sun light. Look forward to seeing it finished and in person!!

Here's another opinion to maybe help. You can run any and all manufacture of cars on any analog track. You keep asking about digital. You are limited to what you can do with digital. When running digital you need a chip in the car to run on the track. When using analog you can run any car on any track at any time. However, you can start with a analog track and convert it to digital later if you want to do that. As far as Carrera vs. Scalextric, they are both smooth tracks. Really you should run silicone tires on your cars so you can get grip out of them. Even running cars with magnets the silicone tires will improve grip tremendously. Things to look at when dealing with Scalextric are that its a narrow track. That also means that the groove in the track is narrower and not as deep which means the cars guide doesn't sit in the track completely and the car comes off the track more. I've also seen where cars will get stuck in spots from the guide flag being too big for the groove. Also you can't run 1/24 scale cars on this track. Carrera track is wider which means wider deeper groove in the track and you can run 1/24 scale cars on it. The cars will run smoothly on this track. Both tracks have been know to have power issues. At times there will be dead spots were the car will slow and times you will have hot spots were the car will get a boost of voltage. The power isn't consistently going through the track. You can fix this depending on how involved you want to get with your setup. I myself, (while not having more money than brains ) have a 45ft. four lane NINCO track in my basement on 13x7ft table. I went with this track cause it doesn't have the power issues of the other tracks and its wide enough to run 1/24 scale. It is also a rougher track surface which means more grip. You can run the stock rubber tires that come with your cars. Its recommended that you don't use silicone tires. The silicone will build in the track and its almost impossible to get it out. I am no expert by any means. I have raced on commercial tracks and private leagues as well. We do all non-magnet racing. The cars are actually more realistic this way. Also too they do go slower which means when the car comes off your less likely to break something. Running without magnets also means the rear off the car will step out a lot more. We use weight and weigh the car down to give us more grip. The possibilities are endless and it is all up to what your looking for or how involved you want to get. Like its been said, this stuff is very addicting and you can get in trouble fast!! I hope I was of some help and have fun!!

Air brush compressors don't have tanks. They just pump air and don't store it. Lownslow, it sounds like something is wearing out. If you can take it apart and do a visual inspection of the compressor, you may find its just dirty and needs to be cleaned. You may find some wear on some components that need replaced. You can probably get the parts you need to repair it from the manufacture of the unit. If the parts are too expensive it may be time for a new one. I know there is some sort of oil in these units and there's no way to monitor the oil unless you take it apart. Could be something as simple as needing oil. IMO, your best bet is just to pull it apart and see what you see and go from there.

I'll say that while the tweezers and excato are crucial to building, my favorite tool would have to be the panel scriber. I know guys use the back of the excato blade but for me its the scriber. I use this around doors and trim so that when I paint I don't loose detail! I scribe these things and give it a black wash before painting my base color. Makes a huge difference in the cars appearance.

Thanks for the tip Rodger. I hadn't gotten that far yet. I will address the situation. I have a F150 myself and have been going off of it. My truck is a 96 and I'm thinking this kit is 94-95ish. Still pretty close. I originally bought the kit to build a replica of my truck however mine is a extended cab. After seeing Hugh's build I couldn't wait to build one and didn't want to go through the mods right now. Oh, but I will build mine! Oh yes, I will build mine! I cleared the body this afternoon. Its in the cooker right now at 125 degrees. I will pull it out later tonight and start polishing! Its Friday and modeling will happen!!!

Well..... You could sand off the rubber like stated earlier. Than cut the section of bumper out that's needed and still glue a strip behind it. Just trying to help. As far as going to the junk yard and pulling a bumper...... your opening a whole nother can of worms!! I've been down that road. Tryed to hand wrench a rear bumper off at a junk yard for my fathers truck. Needless to say, we left with out a bumper!

Here's the pics of the tailgate. While its not my best, nor a show piece, I'm pretty happy with it and think its salvageable. Pic after clear coat and before polishing. I added a little sneak peek of the engine as well And after polishing Not too hateful. Going to move forward!! I almost thought I had a twenty dollar mistake

Thanks for the comments and interest guys! The weathering was a blast and very easy to do. I highly recommend giving it a try. This was my first attempt at it. I learned that I didn't use enough salt and put the black paint down too heavy. Just some things to think about if your going to attempt this if you haven't already. I had some trouble getting the salt off cause of too much paint. I finished all base colors. However I ran into a problem. When pulled the tape off after painting the blue, the tape left its texture in the black paint. So I clear coated just the tailgate. It came out shiny it just looks like its orange peeled. Going to polish it and see how it turns out. If it smooths out I can carry on with the rest of the truck. If this doesn't work I'll have no choice but to send it to the awful strip tank. Here's pics of how it sits now Will let you know how it turns out.

Hey basher, I've been thinking about your front bumper situation. Here's how I think I would tackle this. Where the molding runs across the front, place a piece of tape at the top and bottom of the molding. Then take a miter saw, at the tape line on the top of the molding, and cut the top of the bumper off. Do the same at the bottom of the molding at the tape line. So your making two cuts. Your bumper will be in three pieces. With the molding cut out, take the top of the bumper and the bottom of the bumper and glue a strip of styreen at the back of them to join them together at the same distance apart as if the molding was there. That will give you that channel look. Then all you'll have to do is some putty and paint. Hope this helps. Like I said, this is how I would go about it. I hope you can follow what I'm trying to say. I can put some pics together if you want to help aid in my description.

I been chipping away at it. Gona add the final base coat tomorrow. Then all I'll have to do is clear and polish! Added BMF to badges and door/tail gate handles before painting the black. Weathered the chassis. Thats all the pics I have for now. Started the engine and interior as well. Will post pics when finished building.

This is one of my favorites from the 90's. I miss these cars. You have a very nice, neat, and clean way about your work. Your builds are very pleasing to the eye. Great job and thanks for sharing!!

Making some progress!!! Got it primered, wheels package picked out, and stance set. Now its starting to look like a truck!! Still have to glaze over some spots and smooth, and then............................ PAINT! We are picking up momentum!