mr moto

Ahh, the perfect finishing touch . . . seatbelts slammed in the door!

I second that! The resin casting was only the beginning of that project!

I use "Legos" for my mold boxes also and haven't really had the leakage problem but here's a tip. Real Legos can get very pricy. I went to the bargain section of Toy's R Us and found an off-brand for about $5 a bucket and they work just fine. Pays to shop around! Anyway, they save you the trouble of always building a special mold box the right size for the latest parts that you're casting.

Getting started is not that difficult. Ultimately, the biggest investment is just the learning curve that you have to go through. Now I use a pressure pot (I think about $75 at Harbor Freight) and it has definitely improved the quality of my cast parts but I worked without it for a couple years and it's not needed before you're comfortable with the basics. I recommend using Smooth-On's Oomoo silicone because it's a simple 1:1 mix by volume - no fancy scales needed. I like the Oomoo 30 but it comes in different formulas with different setting times and hardnesses - your pick. Their Smooth-Cast 305 is my resin of choice and it gives you a lot more working time than Alumilite. That's especially nice when you're in the early learning phase. The actual use of resin and silicone isn't so hard to learn. The real learning is the mold construction. I should put up some kind of tutorial I guess. There's probably lots of different ways to do it and mine might not be the best but the process seems to go real smoothly now and when I started I was REALLY clueless. Believe me, if I learned it you can too!

Also, don't expect much strength at that thickness. It won't be as strong as .010" sheet styrene. It will be very delicate and easily damaged.

I'd love to have one of those. It's just so hard to keep clowns from borrowing it!

WOW!!! I never even knew that a kit or promo of that car ever existed. Great build!

That's a great looking car!! Now, where's the model?? Seriously, that's a real looking build if I ever saw one and the '57 Ford is one of my favorite cars and kits.

Great job! It really has the right "period" look.

Thanks for the tip! I've been needing some of that stuff. We used to call it 'Yak fur' !

Great work!! I built one some years back but nowhere near as good as that. How did you do the angel hair interior? All the KOOL Kustoms had to have it back in the day!

Ringo? Now that's OBSCURE!!

I've done two of them. Here's a stock one: And here's a custom with a Revell Parts Pak Caddy engine:

The picture looks like it was taken at a salvage yard. That might offer a clue! I think they were spicing up another dull day at the junkyard.

The error on the "Demon" is that it says '57 Ford. The illustration shows a '56. The actual model is a lump of blue plastic.

Does he have a bar in there, too?!!

Looks great!! Especially for a first attempt at a car. It's easy to see you already had some talent and experience to work with! And, yes, the old Photobucket wasn't that great but the new one is WAY worse.

Wow! Great thread and a great looking build. I have an old Aurora kit (blue plastic version) of this car that I've been preparing to build so I'll study this with great interest. I think my solution for dealing with Aurora's horrible wire wheels will to be to replace them with a resin set of Minilites - not factory correct but the sort of thing a trendy owner might have done in the 60's.

Question: Here's a good-looking pickup. What is it? Answer: That's a good looking pickup! What do I win?

I like your point of view! Just think if we didn't have them at all!

When model kits cost $2 you could buy a new 1:1 car for $2,000. Now model kits cost $20 and new cars cost $20,000. It's all about the zeroes!

Sure, no problem! I spent more than that on breakfast!

That's a great job! It has a very convincingly real appearance. The paint looks perfectly smooth and glossy but not overly shiny and show car looking. It looks a real Sprite that you might have seen on the street back in their day.

That's fabulous! I hope I can acquire a little of your skill by following this thread but don't hold your breath, anybody!

I'd try to Google up some reference material and find out which trans the real car used. If that doesn't work, my best guess would be that since it's a Ford the standard would probably be the faster choice. Mopars usually ran better with automatics.