mr moto

That depends on the spark plug gap that you're using!

I'd like to see the return of the AMT/MPC 1965 Coronet. The body is so much better than the Polar Lights version of several years ago.

12 volts is still 12 volts in 1/25 scale. However, in order to get the amperage right you have to use 1/25 scale electrons!

Very cool! Definitely shows some outside the box thinking.

Johan was capable of making some of the best kits ever like the "Gold Cup" series of classic cars and the Chrysler Turbine Car. Their early annuals (pre-1964) were lacking in detail compared to their competition at AMT, etc. but, just like the competitors, they were really un-assembled promos and the basic tooling was intended to make promos not kits. All that really matters in the promo market is the body and the Johan bodies were always crisp, sharp and well proportioned. As someone who was there back in the day (referred to as a "geezer"), I remember that when the annuals came out in 1964 Johan suddenly blew away AMT for detailed and authentic options especially the racing parts. The 1964 Plymouth annual built a pretty realistic Richard Petty stocker with full roll cage, stripped interior and Nascar style air cleaner or as a Golden Commando super stock. AMT had never offered anything like that. The '64 Dodge could be built as the Ramchargers super stock. It's hard to see what a big step that was from a modern point of view. The hobby has really come a long way! Anyway, the Johan kits are what they are. Some are excellent and some are simplified. It just reflects the state of the hobby at the time. P.S. Don't blame the "real" Johan for some of the incorrect parts in the USA Oldies releases. They were done correctly when they were first issued!

The mule team kit is currently available along with a package of actual borax ore to fill it with! http://www.muleteamkits.com/ I saw one of those built several years ago at a contest and it took "Best of Show". There's also an automotive connection to it. The real mule team wagons were built by Studebaker.

That looks about 1,000% better than the original Monkeemobile! Excellent work and a great eye for styling!

He gets a refill from the chicks that are always in the back seat of '63 Imperials, of course!

I didn't know that a Stutz had ever been done in 1/25 scale! I'd love to see that reissued and some other 1/25 cars of that era tooled up.

That's really hard to answer because I also haven't used enamel color coats in a long time! Try Model Master Ultra Gloss Clearcoat - meaning test it on your enamel first before jumping in. I think it's safe over enamel (Testors says "special formula won't craze or soften styrene" so it's mild by lacquer standards) and it lays down a super smooth, super glossy finish. I actually stuck my finger in a test coat and it didn't show when the finish dried!

Enamel clearcoat can give a "warm glow" if you use it over red, orange, yellow spectrum colors that can actually be kind of attractive. It can really make 'em "pop". I've also gotten a good looking result over black. It will make lighter blues look kind of greenish and, of course, it looks yellow over white. I haven't used any enamel clear coat in years because there are so many good clear coat options now.

That little filler bottle is the best thing that ever happened to Touch-n-Flow! You don't need to use it for loading the TnF if you don't want to use it for that and you don't fill the little bottle with cement and squirt it into the TnF. Here are some options: 1. You can fill your TnF the old fashioned. That means that you put the glass end into the cement bottle for a few seconds and let the cement rise up into the TnF. When you're finished insert the little squeeze bottle into the glass end of the TnF and use air pressure to force the remaining cement back into the bottle. That way your TnF stays nice and clean. 2. You can put the needle end of your TnF into the cement, squeeze the fill bottle and hold it squeezed, then insert it as far as it will go into the glass end of the TnF, let go of the "squeeze" and it will draw cement into the TnF. Repeat several times if you want more cement in it. When finished, clean it out as above. 3. This is the really great part! In the past, I had two TnF's get so clogged that I couldn't use them but I saved them anyway. Now all my TnF's work again. Whenever it gets clogged place it needle down in the cement for a minute or so to help dissolve any residue in the tip and then use the squeeze bottle to blow air through it with the tip still in the cement. Blow several times until you see a strong stream of air bubbles coming out of it. It will work just like new! I used to think the TnF was a frustrating "necessary evil". Now it always works great.

That's a great build of a long time favorite of mine! Your color selection is right on. Just a little educational footnote - not taking anything away from the build - that's actually an Imperial Crown and the Crown Imperial was a very different car. I can't imagine how that could be confusing! Crown Imperials were stretch limos that Chrysler had made in Italy by Ghia to be the "ultimate limousine" in their words. Here's a 1963 Crown Imperial:

This is a fabulous build but Revell is messin' with you. 12 volt batteries always have 6 caps - not 5.

That's a great build of a great car! I recently visited the Auburn-Cord-Duesenberg Museum. Words can't describe it!

The '49 Stude didn't have a bulletnose. Bulletnose years were 1950 and 1951. So let's see a kit of a '50 Stude!!

I've done that and it works but I wish I had used metal! The plastic ones are so delicate that you'll probably break them twice before the model is finished. BTW, BRILLIANT tutorial!! That's what I'll do in the future.

If the chassis was designed to work with 1/24 and 1/32, does that mean that there will be a line of 1/32 cars in the future?

Here's a link to EJ's chassis kits. I like them because they're similar to vintage slot cars that I'm familiar with but there are actually plenty of sources out there for more modern style stuff also. Spend a little time with Google and you'll find some more. http://www.ejshobbies.com/slot+car+chassis.htm

This is INSANE!! When do we get to hear it run?

That sounds like the bottom line to me. Modelhaus stuff is always top quality.

There's actually a bunch of them, Jonathan, including a club in Lafayette. Their website doesn't seem to be working right now so here's a link to the Baton Rouge club: http://www.brscalemodelers.com/ You can use the "Contact Us" link to get more info than I have right now. And here's the Lake Charles club: http://www.ipmsswamp.com/ There's a contest coming up in Covington on Sep. 15 and there will be one in Lafayette in November. I don't have the date right now but I can get more info and contacts for you. I hope to be able to meet you at one of the contests! Here you go. Just found this. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/IPMSAcadiana/?tab=s It should get you in touch with the Lafayette group. There are seven clubs in Louisiana.

That's a great looking build and the 4200 is probably a better choice for that style of truck than the 4300 is anyway.

That's a beauty! Great work.

I said it's real but this one better turn out to be a model or else Harry is slipping!