mr moto

The engine has the block, heads and water pump from Revell's Parts Pack Cadillac with the starter and fuel pump moved to the opposite side and there are parts from '59 Cad, Chevy 396, Avanti 289, Parts Pack 283, and the air cleaner is just all kinds of bits and pieces - some of it actually glows in the dark! A real Frankenstein. I didn't know there had ever been a resin (or styrene) Packard V-8! The PE grill is from Model Car Garage: http://modelcargarag...5&idproduct=377

Indeed you do but it will be a while before it's finished. It's a '56 and loosely (and I do mean loosely) based on the R&R resin kit. A lot of stuff has to be scratch built or completely redone. Here's some teaser shots of the Packard 352 Sky Power in progress:

That sounds just like what I do and it works every time. However, I recommend hitting your super glue with a drop of accelerator. It's amazing how long that tiny puddle of glue takes to harden on its own.

Good question but that's the way it's always been. A few kits include side windows but the great majority don't. The up side is that those are usually fairly easy to build from scratch using clear sheet styrene or acetate.

The theme at our club's contest this year was "Worst Ever" and I thought it would be fun to do a twist on the theme. Before you ask where I got the kit ... it's not a kit. It was a coin bank and I outfitted it with wheels, tires, headlights, tailights, mirrors, etc. from the parts box.

I would go for the side feed. I have a gravity feed Iwata and a side feed Grex and it's like Stasch said. The top feed is simple to use and it's great for detail work. I reach for it first if I'm applying Alclad or painting small parts or hard to reach areas BUT if I'm going to paint a body, it's the Grex side feed, hands down. It comes with a several cups of various sizes and a 1 ounce bottle so it's very adaptable and you can paint a body without worrying about running out of paint in the middle of the job. The trigger action also allows a smoother more comfortable hand motion for doing smooth, shiny paint jobs IMHO. So I'm real glad that I have the Iwata but if I was only going to have one airbrush I'd go for the Grex TS3.

I'm sorry but I checked acronymfinder.com, and Bare Metal Foil doesn't appear on their list so it must mean something else. Bad M#^*!#%?)(#%**# is on the list and therefore must be considered to be more correct.http://www.acronymfinder.com/BMF.html

What he said right there!!! At one time or another I'll use just about any glue or filler under the sun. Right now my favorite filler for most things is straight super glue! But the bottom line is that there's more to those questions than can be discussed in this space and they get rehashed on a regular basis. If you find a club, the members will be glad to discuss any question you have for as long as it takes and in the exact situations you're facing. The boards (like especially this one!) are great sources also and a lot of different people who know a lot of different things will get to see your questions. Of course, number 3 is the most important. HAVE FUN! Use any kind of glue you want if you feel like it! They're only plastic models! And, WELCOME BACK! I took years off, too, and the learning curve was steep for a while but you'll be amazed at how soon you're on top of it!

Building a paint booth isn't voodoo - it can be done perfectly safely - but I have to agree with the above poster. If you have to ask how connect the cord then either seek some expert help (and make sure it's really expert) or purchase a professionally made paint booth (simpler solution). I'm saying this as someone who has built two spray booths and never had a problem but I'm a mechanical engineer by profession and have a good electrical background also. Know when you know something and when you don't know!

Modelhaus also sells a '61 Fury resin kit. I haven't seen it but I have to think that the quality would be excellent.

I add my vote for Harry's round headlight version! 100% better and even manages to suggest the old VW bus a little bit. Is VW listening in? I think this consumer focus group is telling them that they messed up!

Excellent! Really has "the look". P.S. - Don't forget to trim the windshield wiper motor off the top of the firewall.

Does that mean that we can have an Auto ID Quiz for the rest of this week??

My workroom has vinyl tile flooring from Home Depot similar what's at this link: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=202191231&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&MERCH=REC-_-product-2-_-202191235-_-202191231-_-N&locStoreNum=577 Can't beat it! Looks great, easy to clean and doesn't eat small parts. The cost is reasonable and the city's paying anyway.

I think it looks cool both ways! Great job!

Life imitates art imitating life? These guys have a similar idea using an F-104. http://www.landspeed.com/ Great concept and an excellent build!

Thoughts and prayers comin' yer way, Ed! Hang in there and keep us posted on the progress I'm sure you'll be making.

That looks great!! I'm imagining that you don't have to have all the blades in it and that you can vary the size of the spacers. If that's the case It would be very useful. A little pricey.

You did a beautiful job!! I have nothing but admiration for guys who will even attempt a 1/87th kit like that, let alone do a great job. Don't ask me to try it!

That depends on the class that they're entered in. Turismo Producion uses original engines. Turismo Mayor is a lot more wide open and the winning Studebakers are running what amounts to a NASCAR small block Chevy. They've been known to top 190 mph during the event on public roads that aren't even closed!

Sweet and clean! Beautiful work.

That is a model, right? Just thought I'd check! That's about the most believable weathering I've ever seen!

WOW! Way too pretty to race but if you're like me you'll do it anyway! Great job.

I agree that's it's too fuzzy for stock carpet but it's just about right for some 1960's custom cars. I think they used yak fur!

Ain't that the truth!!