mr moto

Just a note from my long experience with silicone tires. The grip is great but if you run silicones be sure that you're not ever going to want to run with conventional tires. After silicones have been used on a track for a significant amount of time they leave a thin coating of silicone and ONLY silicone tires will be able to bite on the track surface. That may not be a problem for you. Just something to think about.

That looks right! Great build!

Who says they didn't produce it! Well, almost. Check out this 1957 Premier. Factory show cars of that time were often about introducing the public to styling ideas that were already designed into future models but weren't on the street yet as a sort of marketing device for the new models.

I don't get it! I'm lucky if I can complete one mediocre build in a year but every time I turn around John has some incredible new model to show. How does he do it? Just fabulous work as always!

I think its cooool!! That's the kind of luxo-boat that Caddy needs to re-establish the idea that Caddy equals real luxury. They had lost that mojo for a number of years but are working back toward it. Something like that could seal the deal!

Are you gonna build a trailer to hold the gas tank? That's super cool!

I frequent classes 1,2 and 4. As far as class 3, I'm in total agreement with Aftashox that not many builders really qualify despite seeing a lot of claims of models being scratch built. Sure, I make some parts from scratch sometimes and I'm not afraid to tackle really SERIOUS modifications but Gerald Wingrove or Juha Ario and some others are real scratchbuilders and I'm not! I'm more of a part stealer and hacker.

Wow! Those are sweeeeeet! You really captured the look!

That's looking terrific! It's amazing what can be done with a really simple kit and then it ends up looking fabulous on a display shelf. Keep up the excellent work!

Is that a two-part? I only see the one tube. I've used a one-part Bondo glazing putty before and had shrinkage problems but that might not be the same thing.

I've had similar experience with Squadron. LONG after you use it you might discover one day that it has shrunk. In fairness, all the one part putties have some shrinkage. Right now my favorite "convential" one-part is Acryl Blue. It's a body shop type product that sets really fast - you can sand in 20 minutes or so - and doesn't seem to have much shrinkage. Maybe that's because most of the shrinkage occurs during the fast setting process. The other one-part that I'm using more and more is super glue. Sets fast (I keep the kicker handy) and doesn't shrink. I thought it might be hard to sand but that hasn't been the case. The main problem is that the lack of color makes it hard to judge your work until it's primed. The problem I have with two-part putties is getting a consistent mix. You have a giant tub of resin and a tiny tube of hardener and it's hard to get a consistent ratio. So sometimes it doesn't set right and sometimes it sets before you can use it. When the mix is right it's good. The directions usually say something about adding the contents of the tube of hardener to the contents of the tub of resin. Not much help! I plan to try Milliput because it's a 1 to 1 mix but right now I'm pretty happy with super glue.

The engine looks great! I'm no expert on Tatra engines but you've convinced me that it's just like the real thing.

That has got to be about the coolest project ever!! You've really captured the shape and that's saying something. The chassis is also looking great. Comrade, I nominate you for the Model Building Hero of the Republic Medal!

The R&R kits that I've personally dealt with have been pretty low quality but usable if you want to put in the work. I'm told that some of their stuff is better than what I've seen but it's a gamble. Anyway, they have an extensive line and sometimes their kit is the only one available of the subject. Resin Realm carries lots of R&R stuff - maybe the full line. http://www.resinrealm.net/

Kool idea! That looks great!

The engine has the block, heads and water pump from Revell's Parts Pack Cadillac with the starter and fuel pump moved to the opposite side and there are parts from '59 Cad, Chevy 396, Avanti 289, Parts Pack 283, and the air cleaner is just all kinds of bits and pieces - some of it actually glows in the dark! A real Frankenstein. I didn't know there had ever been a resin (or styrene) Packard V-8! The PE grill is from Model Car Garage: http://modelcargarag...5&idproduct=377

Indeed you do but it will be a while before it's finished. It's a '56 and loosely (and I do mean loosely) based on the R&R resin kit. A lot of stuff has to be scratch built or completely redone. Here's some teaser shots of the Packard 352 Sky Power in progress:

That sounds just like what I do and it works every time. However, I recommend hitting your super glue with a drop of accelerator. It's amazing how long that tiny puddle of glue takes to harden on its own.

Good question but that's the way it's always been. A few kits include side windows but the great majority don't. The up side is that those are usually fairly easy to build from scratch using clear sheet styrene or acetate.

The theme at our club's contest this year was "Worst Ever" and I thought it would be fun to do a twist on the theme. Before you ask where I got the kit ... it's not a kit. It was a coin bank and I outfitted it with wheels, tires, headlights, tailights, mirrors, etc. from the parts box.

I would go for the side feed. I have a gravity feed Iwata and a side feed Grex and it's like Stasch said. The top feed is simple to use and it's great for detail work. I reach for it first if I'm applying Alclad or painting small parts or hard to reach areas BUT if I'm going to paint a body, it's the Grex side feed, hands down. It comes with a several cups of various sizes and a 1 ounce bottle so it's very adaptable and you can paint a body without worrying about running out of paint in the middle of the job. The trigger action also allows a smoother more comfortable hand motion for doing smooth, shiny paint jobs IMHO. So I'm real glad that I have the Iwata but if I was only going to have one airbrush I'd go for the Grex TS3.

I'm sorry but I checked acronymfinder.com, and Bare Metal Foil doesn't appear on their list so it must mean something else. Bad M#^*!#%?)(#%**# is on the list and therefore must be considered to be more correct.http://www.acronymfinder.com/BMF.html

What he said right there!!! At one time or another I'll use just about any glue or filler under the sun. Right now my favorite filler for most things is straight super glue! But the bottom line is that there's more to those questions than can be discussed in this space and they get rehashed on a regular basis. If you find a club, the members will be glad to discuss any question you have for as long as it takes and in the exact situations you're facing. The boards (like especially this one!) are great sources also and a lot of different people who know a lot of different things will get to see your questions. Of course, number 3 is the most important. HAVE FUN! Use any kind of glue you want if you feel like it! They're only plastic models! And, WELCOME BACK! I took years off, too, and the learning curve was steep for a while but you'll be amazed at how soon you're on top of it!

Building a paint booth isn't voodoo - it can be done perfectly safely - but I have to agree with the above poster. If you have to ask how connect the cord then either seek some expert help (and make sure it's really expert) or purchase a professionally made paint booth (simpler solution). I'm saying this as someone who has built two spray booths and never had a problem but I'm a mechanical engineer by profession and have a good electrical background also. Know when you know something and when you don't know!

Modelhaus also sells a '61 Fury resin kit. I haven't seen it but I have to think that the quality would be excellent.