Mr. Can Am Garage

Indeed it is. I'd love to know how I made THAT typo.. Sure wish I could fix it too.

Chris, I can't take credit for the vinyl top on this one. Revell molded it on. All I did was paint it with Tamiya acyrlic semi gloss black. As for the stripes, I'm of the opinion that anything went with Mopar. If you had the money, they'd do what you wanted. FWIW, the kit comes with three colours (black, white and red) of stripes. BTW, it came this close to having a white over black interior. Had it painted and it just didn't work for me. Thanks!

Finally got around to taking some pics. of the darn thing. It's been finished for about a week now. Current Quebec license plate. Vintage Grand Spaulding Dodge license plate frame.

I saw and thought the same thing about Google, Billy.

You can't buy carbon fiber paint. That was intended as an April Fool seeing as it was in the April issue. You can, however, buy carbon fiber decals from several companys.

Wide masking tape and some Evergreen strip is all you need to add a vinyl top. That's all I used to add a vinyl top to this '69 Chevelle.

Um,......WOW! Colour me Plum Crazy! Those two are to die for.

Typically, I change subjects. Sometimes that means a non-muscle car. Sometimes a snap kit. Sometimes, I get drastic and grab a Sci-Fi kit. This time, I'm over the top. All I wanna build is aircraft and in 1/72 scale! Go figure!

If you want rattle can paint, it's hard if not impossible to beat Tamiya Sprays. I've got an airbrush and I use Tamiya sprays for just about anything I can.

I don't normally do race cars but I may have to make an exception for that Ferrari.

So what's stopping you then? Thanks!

Wide masking tape with Evergreen strips for the chrome.

Thanks! I tend to agree that it's not that good of a kit but it just goes to show that anyone can make something decent out of it.

Painted Monaco Orange with black vinyl top over a black interior and redlines. I borrowed a technique from the military modelers and put a wash around all of the opening panels (doors, trunk basically). I think it adds a lot to the finished project.

I've got it and the required headset with microphone. You don't need to run out and buy one special for your computer. I got mine with a PS2 game (Navy SEALs) It works just fine. Now if I could convince some of my friends to get with it.

Our IZZY has written an article? Tres cool!

Started work on the winch today. All it needs now are end caps and some cable.

Worked on the headache rack today but didn't get much done as it's fiddly work.

Today was a fiddly day as I spent my time making the storage bins at the front of the bed. As you can see, the driver's side one didn't come out as nice as the passenger's side one. I could re-do it but not one is likely to see it on the finished model so I'll prolly just leave it alone.

Made an Evergreen "sandwich" to use as part of the slider assembly. The one on the left has been glued in place. The center section is separate and will be hinged to the chassis. The slider will slide on this. A test fit of the bed showed that it rubbed on the wheels so some to raise the height of it was necessary. Evergreen strip to the rescue! I had to notch those strips to fit around the back of the cab. Hard? No. Fiddly? You bet. The bed and subframe. It's not called a slider for nothing. As you can see, being positionable has it's advantages.

The tools can be ordered from http://www.walthers.com or from your local hobby shop and I believe that MicroMark carries some of them. You can also go to the NWSL website - http://www.nwsl.com/

As I'd hoped, I made more progress today. Broke out my Duplicutter II to make my life easier to cut my second sheet of treadplate down to size. Used both the Chopper and True Sander to get the angled ends of the bed's outside edges equal. That was not fun but it got done and that's what matters. Finished off the truck's frame rails or at least enough to make them look finished.

Finally got everything taken care that had to be taken care of. Time for some modeling! It's been a few days since I worked on the rollbed and in that time I've been trying to figure out how to finish off the end of the chassis and the sides of the chassis rails. The solution came to me last night while I was eating supper. I started by measuring the dimensions (length in other words) for a filler piece for the end of the chassis. I transferred that to my Chopper and set my stop (the black triangle). I found a suitably sized piece of Evergreen and proceeded to chop it down to size. I then transferred the freshly cut piece to my True Sander. I held it up against the fence and gave both ends a quick swipe or two of the sandpaper just to make sure that they're 100% square. Back to the shop. A perfect fit as you can see. I'm currently waiting to see if the black plastic of the truck's frame/chassis can be glued with model cement. If it doesn't work, I'll resort to super glue.

A while back (OK, YEARS), I bought one of the DG Productions Internationals (the stake bed) with the intention of building a replica of a neighbour's box van. That just never happened. Late last year, I decided to draw up a set of plans based on the info. from Jerr-Dans website and using a Modelhaus rollbed as reference. Earlier this week, I finally decided to go for it seeing as I had the required Evergreen plus some newly acquired NWSL tools. I scratchbuilt the white plastic frame in maybe 10 minutes last night. Eventually, it will be hinged to the International's frame and the loadbed will slide on it. FYI, I'm basing my rollbed on a 22' model offered by Jerr-Dan. Had I mentioned that the bed will be poseable? This should be fun. For anyone who's considering scratchbuilding, may I suggest you invest in some the KILLER tools made by North West Short Line (NWSL)? I've acquired three of them since the beginning of the year and I couldn't have made the frame as quickly and as easily without my trusty Chopper and TrueSander.

That's a nice surprise. Got a friend who'll go nuts over it.