Rodent

wearing house slippers

Well yeah, Dad painted my first few for me, then I was allowed to try. In the name of economy, I learned to stretch a single 69 cent can of Testors to as many as three bodies, LOL. The 5 and Dime also had Pactra, and I really liked them.

It's cool that this is happening after so long. The jury is out whether or not I will get one. I am sure they will sell well, at least the first run.

I am actually a little hesitant to see David jump in with an airbrush if he is having so much trouble with rattle cans. I have never had the pleasure to experience Model Master Lacquer (colors) that behave as badly as he describes, but I have experienced it from the clear. It came out a foamy mess, much to my surprise. The bumpers came out a mess and I had to strip them. There are basic things with temperature, humidity, application, etc. that are just Painting 101. When you add in pressure, thinning, type of thinner, how far to open the airbrush, etc. to the cocktail, it seems like even more of a recipe for disaster than rattle cans. Like most have said, I suggest that you practice, maybe even get some plastic "For Sale" signs at the dollar store and use them to adjust the pressure and pattern of the airbrush before moving on to a model body. And once you do, I suggest that the flat silver livestock trailer be first. As I said before, I think that the H5 needle setup will be better for a semi trailer, but YMMV. Silver will be easier to spray and the livestock body should be somewhat forgiving. Since you like purple so much, it's time to build a purple pond. Big plastic tub with a semi-airtight lid from WalMart, Target, Dollar Tree, whatever. Gallon of the real deal. We all mess up or want to redo something old, so it's part of the modeling tools. Yellow oven cleaner is nasty stuff, but it works as well on larger parts. Don't get me started with novice 911 drivers who try to autocross. My old club in the 1980s banned me from designing courses when the local PCA chapter was going to join us. I designed three along the same theme. 1. Reasonably wide fast straight/sweeper. 2. A slalom with an odd number of pylons (5-9), each about three feet closer to each other than the last. 3. A low speed 90+degree corner at the end. These folks were too smart to walk the course in the morning because they knew everything and were having brunch at the country club at that hour anyway, so the first view of the slalom was through the windshield, usually at way too fast a speed. Since there was an odd number of pylons, the side you chose to enter on was important so you were on the right line for the slow speed corner on the end. It also took most of them at least three pylons to figure out they were getting progressively closer together, and with how tail-happy 1980s 911s were, the outcome was consistently predictable. I think one guy took out around 23 pylons. Corner workers were not amused in 100+ degree heat, so I was usually banished to do that duty. A Corvette guy called me an evil genius and it made me proud to hear him say that.

borrowed from horses

Lawn Darts too

How about cricket?

It looks pretty good to me proportionally. It's not like you are going replica stock with it.

If I ever see it at the LHS I will give it a try. I am not sure they carry it.

I like old-school Testors Dullcote, and I believe that it is still available. You may have to go to Michaels or some place like that to get it now.

Not to introduce another variable to this, but what about Press N Seal? I have never tried it, but it sounds like it may work for what Peteski is explaining above?

Yes, my friend John had a survivor 2-door post 'pest with a 215. He wound up selling it in the downturn of 2009-2010. Nice solid Sacramento Valley car that spend most of its life in someone's grandma's garage. I am pretty sure that the buyer wanted a solid car to make a GTO clone from.

It is a very nice kit. I am glad that I managed to snag one during the last round. The only complaint I have is that whoever made the master missed the mark several places in the interior. Of course, I owned a 1:1 68 Mustang for over 23 years. and yes, I know that some of the interior is a direct copy of the AMT '68 GT500.

Seems to match the 1:1 emblems I am seeing online for all of the E-Types. Looks more like a "G" on the emblem than the decal though.

see that anyway

not usually visible

In my climate, I find that the first pass paint tends to dry a bit before the second pass with the H3, and the H5 seems to help with that. Again, experiment and see what happens. Maybe I need more thinner? Honestly, I have never painted a semi-trailer with an airbrush, but a Galaxy car trailer frustrated the H. E. double hockey sticks out of me even during cooler weather. I wish I could remember who suggested the H5. It was a long time ago, but it may have been my fellow Mazda pilot Bob Downie. Anyway, we are getting in the weeds again.

Yes, this. My original H3 stuff had been dropped a few too many times. Someone on the Scale Auto board suggested that I buy H5 replacement parts and I did. IMHO they work better overall than the H3 on larger parts, even 1:24/25 bodies. As always, what works for me in California won't always work for folks in New Jersey, Alberta, Netherlands, Brazil, Hawaii, or even Oklahoma.

Here is my c.1980 H, its original cloth-covered hose, and the water trap that the friend at the hobby shop made me buy at the time. The rest is a filter, regulator, and fittings from an auto parts shop to allow me to attach it to the hose on my garage compressor and dial the pressure back. Opening up a whole 'nother can of worms here, but IMHO you can't paint a semi-trailer or anything large with an H3 needle setup. Discussion welcome.

Some time ago, I painted a Revell '68 Mustang with 1:1 Diamond Blue and gave it a light overcoat of TS-13. The whole thing dried for at least a month. Instead of using the kit stripe decals for the Cobra Jet hood/cowl stripes, I masked them off with Tamiya tape and shot the stripes with Tamiya semi-gloss black. As soon as possible, I removed the tape, but it had made some weird markings in the hood. I let the whole thing dry for a few weeks, carefully cleaned up the marks with 2000 and gave it another light coat of TS-13. It came out fine, but it definitely is possible for Tamiya tape to leave marks on paint that should be long since dry. Never really had any bleeding through, but I am a firm believer in the "light coat of clear between colors" method whenever possible.

You got me there Joe.

Thanks, but I am not enthused about converting a 68 body to a 69. I wish that a caster would do a proper 69 4-door.

I don't remember going to McDonald's until maybe 1967 or 1968. I don't think there were any around where I grew up until then. I was going to post that Snake should try my beloved Buttermilk Crispy Chicken Sandwich, but I just discovered that it has been discontinued. Sniff. I don't go there often enough I guess. (slight rant) What would the McDonald's franchisees of 1965 think if they got into a time machine to 2021 and saw that cars now have rotary shifters and electric parking brakes, primarily to leave room in the console for two 32+ ounce fountain drinks? That would have been enough for eight 1965 people.

The $2.00 MPC kits of my youth would only be $14.07.

sorry, they're permanent