Modelmartin

Clint and I are working on it. It will be a conversion including the tire, outer rims to widen the Revell wheels, a fender, extensions to move the drivetrain out, and widened frame halves. It will be a turn key set-up to put some "FAT" in the back of your bike. It will probably be a few weeks yet. We will announce when they are ready. Thanks to all of you for your interest.

Both this tool and the sedan delivery were typical of Revell's late 60s early 70s tooling. AWFUL! The subjects are great but it takes a lot of work to just bring these kits up to the OK level. It's great that they are available again. Perhaps the guts from an AMT 51 can go in and some detail parts can come from Monograms version. Too much work!

I love Ts. Here are a few of mine.

I dab unthinned primer into the joints with a small brush. I will dab one round spot on the joint with the brush, wait a few seconds for it to skin over and then dab the next circle overlapping the first...etc. It looks quite good.

That is correct, Randy. I would add that the pressure actually gets rid of 99.99% of the bubbles. I have cut up molds to use for filler and I just can not find bubbles in the rubber if it has cured under pressure. It has to be kept under pressure the whole time. On occasion I will find a bubble that is pressurized in a casting but it is rare and easily prevented by getting the filled mold under pressure ASAP. If the resin is starting to kick it is harder for the bubble to leave the building! In the early days when I still screwed with vacuum I would get resin filling the bubbles in the mold's surface and then pressing into the surface of subsequent castings and I would get dimples on the surface of the castings. Pressurizing the molds and castings solved 90% of my casting problems. After that it is all part lines, sprues, vents, layout, and resin flow. Good luck Aaron! You are almost there.

I have been resin casting for over 25 years and swore off of vacuum after my first experience with pressure casting about 20 years ago. Basically you need only a commercially available paint pot and an air compressor. When you pour the rubber for your mold and when you pour your castings you put it into the pot and pump it up to 30-40 psi and wait until it cures. All bubbles will be gone if you got it in before the resin kicks. It is easy and reliable and produces superior castings. With a slower resin you can cast finned cylinder heads with boltheads all over it and not get a single bubble. Vacuum sucks! :shock:

You have a great eye! That looks really good.

I actually can't stand the real car but your model makes it look real good! It tempts me to get one! Fabulous build there.

I like it. Nice and clean, not too much flash. Looks like you had fun building it.

I think it looks good! Hypodermic tubing works real good for the nozzle too. How about a Replica's and Miniatures Wizrd's Os and some crystal clear over the pressure gauge decal that you're going to put on it? keep up the good work!

Thanks guys! It was fun seeing all of you. Bill - I love that Chrysler Turbine car. It's great to see a kit as old and neglected as that one getting the Geary treatment. Very cool! Randy - Great job on the Otto. I did get in to the NNL room finally and checked it out! Very Nice! Barbo, Billy and Bill, the Firebird should be ready in a week or two. I will post in the resin section when it is ready. Zeb! :? I have no idea!

Sigh! OK!

They haven't used that logo since the 60s, mine does not say Monogram, nobody thinks I am Monogram, and no losses could be proven anyway. Nobody cares. It was a cool look and we updated and modified it to look like a serial # plate. I think it looks good.

I always loved those close coupled Caprice coupes from 66-68. Very cool car and very nice build-up.

Very cool project, Art. I will look forward to seeing that one done. It looks like you overcome a problem that was halting progress and you will now speed your way to completion!

The Hussein comes from King Hussein of Jordan who was quite a car guy and did sponsor the car and knew John Mecom from the oil biz. No relation to Saddam, the name Hussein over there is like Smith to us.

Hey Mr. Mark-ari! I am not quite set-up to donate machined parts but I certainly would donate some resin for the benefit of the Museum. Let me know where to send it. See you in May!

I highly recommend that whatever you get make sure it has a tank. It smooths out the delivery and it's nice to not have it running all the time you are using it.

I would cut as far from the window trim as possible in order to preserve the trim when you are filling and sanding. I would consider swapping the whole trunk lid area at the same time in one piece. The name of the game is to put the seams in the easiest areas to refinish and away from panel lines , trim and detail. good luck.

This was my first NNL East(only 1100 miles from home!) and I hope to make it to more of them. I have been going to NNLs and contests for over 25 years now and I have to say that I thought it was one of the best organized and run shows I have seen. 8) I was very impressed and had a great time. I hope next year I can creep out from behind my vendor table for longer periods of time. My thanks go out to all the Tri-State guys! You were great!

Oh Heck! I used to remove those "safety caps" with a hammer! It worked great until I broke off a couple of nozzles and didn't have a spare. Can anyone tell that some of us are unrepentant hacks :twisted: !

Please stop by the Aardvark Models/Modelmartin table and introduce yourselves to me. It will be my 1st NNL East and I am pretty excited about it.

Cool! I always decant paint from 1/2 empty spray cans. I fold over a paper towel a number of times ,hold it on the side of the can while holding it down horizontal and jab :twisted: the can with an exacto through the towel. I let the pressure bleed out and then let the can sit for a while for the paint to de-gas. Then I pour it into a wide mouth jar from the hole in the side of the can. Never had a problem with that. What I did have a problem with was opening one of said jars several weeks after decanting. I unscrewed the lid and the paint (gloss black Rustoleum- my basecoat for Alclad chrome) came rushing out the gap and all over my hand and all over several painted bodies nearby ruining them. :oops: :cry:

It all started with the Rio 1/14th Atlantic to celebrate their 100th model which was a 1/43rd Atlantic. They make their patterns in 1/14th so they can pantagraph down 3-1 to get 1/43 (all rounded off). Weird, Huh! Some of the other Eye-talians started to chime in in the same scale. I have no idea how 1/28th(Japanese) or 1/22(Togi Alfa kits from Italy) or all the other weird scales started. My brain is full :shock: and it is full of mostly useless stuff. A mind is a terrible thing to waste. I bet Art Anderson knows though ! Take care, Dave!

Cool model! You wouldn't want to follow that car with your brights on! :shock: