Modelmartin

Everybody has given a lot of good advice here. The only thing I will add is that polishing is the key to that crazy shine you are looking for. Some guys use the polishing kits with all of the different grits. I usually start at 3600 and go all the way to 12000. The other way is to polish with compound. Novus #2 will give you a real nice gloss. I use the kit and the compound. Use soft cotton like t-shirt material and be gentle and support the underside of the surface you are polishing. I don't use wax myself but might give it a try one of these days. Good luck and remember the first 100 paint jobs are the hardest - it gets easier after that!!!

I second Dragnrods. The clear styrene is way better then any kit windows. Evergreen makes differnt thicknesses and is cheap and looks fantastic. It is optical clearer and makes the cars look more real. Later model cars with more radically curved windows are harder to do but your 40 Ford should be a piece of cake! Good luck.

Bill, I saw your 58 and the Corvette last summer in the Museum in Stamford. I always enjoy seeing your work. My most fun builds are either the wacky stuff I do or some of the restored gluebombs I have done recently These were FUN builds. I build a lot of serious stuff, too. I get a different satisfaction from the replicas.

www.rpmmodelclub.com We are in Minneapolis/St.Paul, Minnesota and have a great club and a kickass website! Please enjoy.

98% of my kits are here "in case" I decide to build them. I have very few kits that I would not want to build. I don't have time-specific plans for too many of them. I like to do series of builds like I am on a Dune Buggy kick right now. I have always been on a Porsche kick, classic cars, moto GP, Minis, 60s-70s drag cars,etc.etc. I need blinders but the point is I have them in case I decide to build them. I try to avoid collecting because I feel it takes energy away from building. I do have some diecast but have recently begun a zinc abatement project. Almost all zinc based model forms will be leaving the building! Except for my minis. I have a 1/1 '60 Austin 7 in my garage and I couldn't part with my minis!

Can you get scale gas for it? That is a very, very, very well done model.

Mike, In June come on down to the Twin Cities for our GMO-NNL show. You can check out the details at our website www.rpmmodelclub.com We have 1 guy who comes from Fargo every year - Junior Berg. The show is within blocks of the Mall of America which will nicely entertain your wife and son while you are hanging out with the model car guys. It's a really nice show. We are in our 9th year of putting it on.

I have shipped hundreds of built models. I can't recommend tying it down to the base. Any impact could pull your axles/wheels off of the rest of the car. :cry: If it is loose the whole car will move slightly and the cushioning will do it's job. Wrap it around and around with T.P. or paper towels. Double boxing is essential. Don't use styro peanuts when you double box. They are too rigid and unforgiving. The best thing is crushed newspaper. Good luck.

Jimmy Flintstone puts out a resin copy of the AMT Meyers Manx body which could be adapted to the Barris chassis. Look on Ebay.

I will be vending my latest resin. I will try to break awy and see the models. I really enjoy the east coast guys.

Don't you hate it when Bob goes down that paeth!

It came out of a 1965 issue of OLD MOTOR and VINTAGE COMMERCIAL magazine, an English magazine for antique auto enthusiasts. I assume the price is in shillings and pence but have no idea how it compares.

The more prep you do on every aspect of the model the better it will all turn out and the final assembly will go real fast and easy. I am building a mild custom 59 El Camino gasser and spent months prepping the body before I even layed on the first coat of primer. Of course, a reissue off of a 40 year old AMT tool presents a different task than a Tamiya molding. When I flattened out the ripples on the body I lost some of the door lines. Over the years the flow of plastic wore down the door lines in the mold which project into the mold cavity. To restore(!?)the door lines the mold guy grinds and blends the material away on each side of the line thereby raising the sides out on the molding. I spent hours with flat files and sanding sticks to fix this one up. OY!

To control dust in your paint area get a trigger spray bottle of water and mist the area a minute or so before you paint. Do it in your spray booth too. I find it really helps.

WOW! There is some wacked out stuff over there! We are talking serious downforce here!

Hey Ismael, I use regular old clay to hold brass pieces in position while soldering. It makes a great heat sink, too. If your solder joints are a little heavy just use some clay to hold your pieces together, then put some paste flux on the areas near the join and heat it up. The excess solder will flow away from the joint and then you can sand it all smooth. The solder is soft enough to sand. The wirewheel may grab your part and fling it to oblivion. I have built up some complex roll cages (6-point with crossbraces) this way.

I vote for 27 T body. Way cooler! 8)

I bought one of those new in 1982! It was silver with a gray and blue interior. I loved that thing! I autocrossed it and the only thing that beat me were Scirrocos and GTIs. I actually drove it coast to coast and many times to Toledo NNL. The cool thing about the Rabbit P-U was that it was developed and built first in the US in Pennyslvania at the former Chrysler plant that Chrysler used for payment to VW for all of those VW engines that went in the Early Omni/ Horizons!!! Myself and family members ran the mileage up to almost 200K before economics of replacing EVERYTHING possible on the vehicle doomed it :cry: . Ah memories!

Is this a great country or what??!! Where else on this planet can a Swedish :twisted: mobster and a shadowy 8) German named Dieter wreck a million dollar Italian car bought with funds from a company called Gizmondo!! Oh say can you see........... Andy

The pics that Zeb posted are on Wrecked Exotics and they say Malibu, California........160 mph..............utility pole. Some kind of fun!

Go to wreckedexotics.com for page after page after page of wrecked everything. They have 3 pages of wrecked Enzos including the above pics. They have Mr. Bean's wrecked Mclaren F1 :shock: . It is a real fun site. Andy

It looks like VW's answer to the Smart Car. When is that new V-Dub Bus coming out?

I will chime in. I machined the wheel rim and tire for Steamboy aka Clint W. He is going to carve the tread in it and then we are considering casting them if there is enough interest. It scales to 300 mm wide measured at the sidewall.

I hope to have these avilable at NNL East. I just shot the 1st coat of primer. These will come with the scoop, tires, slicks, interior tin, and a body prop rod. You supply the top fuel flathead!!! Thanks for looking.

Add my vote for the Paasche H. You won't find a more reliable, easy to use, and adjustable airbrush. Mine is going on 25+ years now. Gerald Wingrove used a Paasche H. 'Nuff said.