eviltwincustoms

2" (1:1) = .125" (1/16) and 3" = .1875 That looks HOT!!! Makes me want to purchase one now. I am very excited for you in this build, this is going to look fantastic! First off I want to say, build the chassis how you like and to what makes you happy because I don't want to create any bad feels with you or anyone else on the forum. I am here just to help others achieve that next level, if scale realism is what you would like to go after. With that being said, if you are interested here is my feedback. If you are looking to build your chassis close to scale, my suggestion would be to roll your rear wheel forward and shorten that wheelbase. Your 7 9/16" works out to be a scale 121" which is longer than the Maximum requirements. If you can my suggestion would be to shorten it up by 3/8 and you will be right at the Max 115 inches for the scale requirements or you can go even smaller. Each car is different, as mine is sitting right at 112" wheelbase.

Thanks, Joe and Chris for the complements... Now a magician never shows how he does his tricks... Let me wrap up some of the rough edges on the inner door panel and get the spring pinned and in place. Then I will shoot some final pics of the door with the latch plate installed and let you see the inner workings/guts. It isn't rocket science, as I always say, due to using the "KISS" (Keep It Simple Stupid) method. Because once completed the door panel will be all welded shut and I wont have access to take it back apart. So I tried to limit as much as possible the working parts.

Very impressive, I am a fan of anything that functions and moves with the model!

Looks good from here... what is the distance from the front center to the rear center hub? If you have this distance and it sets the rear wheel in the right place for the rear tub, you should be good to go!

Please excuse the bad pictures, due to taking them in the evening and poor lighting I may need to take some better ones. But I wanted to share this small update. I made my own Photo Etched Aluminum door handles and the drivers side actually is functioning now, just need to add the spring. This way it will spring back into its original position when not held. When I cut out my 4" Hole in the plexi window and add the trim ring, it will just finish this door off really nicely. Drivers door with Handle in place and door locked.

No Problem Chris... any time I can help out! Thanks Dave, that means a lot coming from someone that just finished a 1/8th scale monster build!

Please take some close up pics, as I would really like to see not only the paint details but also your work on the hinges and details you did to the actual car. The video is great but not like having up close pics to view. Very impressive work you do I must say!

It looks cool.... I like the idea this is back in my territory as I use to do Custom Hotwheels all the time for the annual Irvine Convention. Looks like you are going for that sort of "Rat Fink" way out of per portion look. My suggestion would be to use the 100% Hotwheels line up and find the 57 plymouth fury and pull the Pro Stock wheels off and use the front spoked wheels off of the Blue 100% Clay smith cams Henery J Willys gasser, it even has a nice scale moon tank! Pull that front clip off and use the 100% Boyd Coddington 36/37 ford grille or the grille out of that Semi that looks like it has a 34 -36 ford grille. I think it would really set off that wild Cab/Roof line you have going on.

Outstanding job! So when you sent the body out for paint, did you take it all back apart? The hinges look pretty tight, any concerns with over spray or clear coat, making the clearances even tighter or making it so the hinged parts dont work?

Jeff, any updates on this Pro Mod Japanese Import?

Joe... I had to bust up laughing on this one! How about calling it a Rear Differential/Axle housing or Rear Axle assembly (since he has the rotors and calipers mounted)?

Niko, I actually think for your project the square tubing looks much better! It just fits the Pro Street much better and seems to be what I see more of with this type of build up than the round tubing. Keep up the awesome work!

No problem Niko, here are those pic's you requested. Wheel Tub built from Aluminum Can with the styrene back to hold its shape. I find that it is plenty thick, not sure why you are saying it is weak. Maybe you are doing it differently. Then here is a pic with them floating on the chassis, not mounted solid yet. Can't get much more scale than the thickness of the aluminum can.

I agree, that is with any body and chassis manufacturer that you look at. I think the biggest thing will be determining your center lines for your axle and spindles. This will help you set up your engine block as to where it should be mounted. This is where I had to redo my chassis a couple times to get the firewall proportioned to where the motor was suppose to call home.

Joe, LOOKING GOOD! Here is a reference pic for you. This guys car the firewall looks pretty shallow, but it will give you some reference for the front section. As an FYI for some measurements to help with the front build out, my suggestion is to put the body back on the chassis and identify where your center lines are for the front and rear wheels keeping the 100" minimum - 115" Max distance. This will help you determine where your rear end will line up and the front spindles will layout on your board. Then from there you can either mount the motor timing chain at that center point or set it back no more than 10% of the total vehicle wheel base measured off of the centerline of front spindle to the center of front spark plug hole. Using these measurements, it will help you better determine if your Firewall is ok as is or if it needs to be set back some more.

Paul welcome to the Big boyz section... I have to say that 1/16 scale is much easier with us guys with big fingers as well. As you said it makes things easier on the eyes and I have to completely agree. I would say build what you like! We have a lot of Pro Mod stuff from 1/24 all the way up to 1/8 scale going on these days. So if this is something you would like to give a spin, I am sure you can find a lot of helpful posts to get you started. The biggest thing is just have fun with your project and enjoy!

Thanks Chris for letting us know... by chance can you PM me with your current list of 1/16 stuff you are carrying that is not listed on your site? When I checked I didn't see anything for large scale.

I can respect that, but I have to say that each RC is a Model in themselves the only difference is they are controlled by a radio and have working differentials and driveshafts. You are still using the same materials and building from scratch just as you would with any Big Scale Model. Like the HiLux I have as my Avatar, it was a scale build with scratch built dash and fully detailed bed interior with working tailgate latches just like the original. The original Tamiya Bruiser didnt have any of these things from a true detailed Rockcrawler.

Nice Scale 1.9 RC rock crawler you have there Joe! I use to build scale 1/10 stuff all the time... I was big in the Tamiya Bruiser/Moutaineer's turning them into Hilux crawlers.

What... you have been turning out all this work and not showing Pics?

Welcome any time Chris! Ya I will probably use Epoxy due to it having a longer curing time. CA is just to quick, unless I head over to the hobby store and get the slow curing CA glue. Thanks Joe! I think patience is a virtue and wonder if I have enough of it at times.

Nice job on the Double Dragster kit, I have been looking at this set in the TIN Can(box)

Chris, I use to do this with my other projects and end the end, it was way to scary to see how much money I would put into a project. So I just stopped calculating the cost, and just build to what I want in a model and enjoy the end result. Because if I knew what I put into them these days, I would cry once it was all done. Then knowing I could never get out of it what I put into the model, if I was ever to sell it... I would be completely frustrated.

Joe... any more amazing updates for us on your build?

LOL... Thanks Dave! If you get a chance jump on over to the "Drag Racing Model" forum and take a peak at my 1/16" pro mod thread. I would love to get some of your "Big Scale" experienced feedback! One of the things I thrive on is things I should do differently to improve on my skills. Thanks again!