eviltwincustoms

Derrick, nice mod to the 3port Hat... can't even tell it was cut and a section taken out.

I commend you using brass on something that small... not much room to get around in the cockpit with all those bars going every which way! Looking good, really like those back shocks very realistic. Keep up the great work.

Thanks john for looking at my pain staking task that has caused me to have numb finger tips.. To shape them was Dremel (cut off discs, sanding drums (course and fine grit), Jeweler's files, and sand paper) and A LOT of PATIENCE.... more than I wanted to put into it. LOL I think I spent over 10-12hrs on them in just cutting and shaping and checking hole alignment.

badgass, brett... thanks for the complements! I is much appreciated, I was beginning to wonder how I was going to pull it off because it started out to be a pain in the you know what! Joe, I am using K&S sheet aluminum that is .032" thick which works out to be roughly a little over 1/2" thick. In 1:1 they are 1/4" thick but the .015" stuff is really flimsy so I bumped up the thickness. I have a local Hobby shop in in Kansas City called "Hobby Haven" and I think Hobby Lobby may have some back in the hobby section where the Pine Wood Derby and Rocket section is located.

First off I want to say, "Thank you All" for the kind words... and of course any feedback on accuracy. I have a small update for everyone, been working on the 4 link mounts for the chassis and the rear end. Done up in aluminum and mounted up to the chassis. After two day's of cutting/grinding/sanding and fitting they finally fit to my liking. The biggest headache was getting the width and the holes to line up when mounted. NOW my fingers tips are numb!!

Yep you are both correct, just divide by what ever scale you are working with not rocket science. I find myself with a regular old calculator next to my build all the time now. Crunching numbers to see if I need to either up or down size depending on the size of the object and the medium I am using.

Joe this looks amazing... curious to know what paint did you use on the tanks?

Very impressive, I may have to spend some money with these RBMotion connectors. I have to ask, where did you get the 1/16 scale decals? Do you have an Alps Printer? ROM in looking at your Pic, where you have your electronics I don't see your two 10 lb fire suppression bottles up against the passengers side. Are you planning on putting these some where else?

That is just an outstanding job you have done!

Joe, do you have it set up so both sets of front wheel sets turn to help with the radius?

Rickard, so I have to ask what are you using to turn the styrene down? It looks like they are Xacto blades that are broken off or are you suing something different? What are you using to make the concave section of the Mag towards the bottom?

I'm jones'in here Derrick.... gotta see some updated progress pics! Having a 5yr old Son, he doesn't let me spend much time on my project. As soon as I get off work, gotta go outside and play soccer with him. Plus my 17yr old daughter is coming up to see me this weekend, so no time to myself to work on my car. I need to live vicariously through your build.... LOL

This thing is crazy HUGE! Just how long is the tanker? and What did you say you were going to build the tank part out of? This would be one fun RC to take out on a Trials course...

I know in the slot drag cars most dont use the kit glass and I think a few on here possibly dont. If you mod your own out of thin clear bubble plastic you shouldn't run into this thickness concern.

Nice start, I will have to keep a look out for updates on this. Keep us posted on the progress!

I am glad it was an easy fix, and my intentions were not to highlight, "all the flaws". But more of how the pictures were captured, remember the ole addage "A picture is worth a thousand words." As for the sagging, I wasn't worried about your frame for that specific reason "being built out of brass". Wasn't sure if your shocks and struts were functional, if so the thought was that maybe your springs are not heavy enough making the suspension sag. My bad in not saying what I meant. Being that I am in the process of building a Pro Mod myself these were all things I had to research during the building process. So it wasn't something that I searched out specifically for your build. Just another one of those detail nuts, this seems to always get me on my own builds.

Wow... I just came across this build. I have to say those laced bicycle wheels look fanfrikintastic! I am extremely amazed at your attention to detail with the brass hubs and half axles. As Wayne said "Hack" shouldn't be in your vocab... because you have noticed area's for improvement and even went back and made changes. This is why I like to post in forums.. Other can help with catching things I may have overlooked. So when I get feedback it is always welcomed.

I have to agree with the others, your hood is to high. But on the other end of the stick taking the bulge out, is not going to get the blower to sit where it looks right based on reference photos. I am sure this is ROM's dilemma. I would think you are going for scale and accuracy with all the detail you have in your car with that engine and chassis. Dont MUK it up with the hood now, press forward and fix the real cause. Without looking at it closer, to me it looks like you need to take consideration more around how your block mounts to the chassis. The motor is sitting up way to high and needs to be dropped. I saw another of your posts and it looks like you are using a Flashpoint resin HEMI Promod motor. Did you add anything of significance that is raising the roots blower up even higher than stock? ROM from the oil pan to the ground how many scale Inches is it from hitting the ground? The oil pan in ADRL can be less than the 3" requirement for the main chassis. The other thing I see, I know you have spent a lot of time on the motor, and it may correct itself once the block is lowered. But your Hood is cut way to wide, I have a feeling this is due to all the details making the blower opening in the hood to wide. Check to make sure your hoses and such are tucked in as close to the blower as possible. The drivers side hood opening should be close to the blower with just enough room for the tie down strap. Then the passengers side would be close to the blower with the exception of the MDS 44 Pro Mag cut out next to the blower belt. I was looking at some more pic, maybe with all that weight your chassis is sagging some now, and falling past the 3-3.5" scale ride height it should be sitting at. Your headers look really close to that top bar on the chassis in the pics. Can't really tell, if this is the case your block is sitting up to high.

It just kills me to hear how people complain about the winters in Florida. It drops down to 55 degree's and everyone is pulling out their Long Johns and Heavy Winter coats! You can tell when someone has lived in a state so long they don't realize what cold really is. Same thing when I was living in Kansas and moved to Colorado for 8yrs. Everyone was complaining about it being cold, yet I was waiting for the temp to drop. Gotta love that Humidity, it makes everything seem colder and work that much harder to cool things down.

That tanker you are building you might as well add the small castle receiver and a lipo battery and a small servo for steering, put it all up under the cab or inside the tank. You are building an awesome scale RC. You should post that up on some of the RC sites as well, there are a lot of great Scale scratch builders on them as well. Your Tanker looks like a MANN... Check out RCRockcrawler.com, The "Large Scale" They have a bunch of MANN trucks that are extremely detailed! This is where I use to always hang out when I did 1/10 scale custom 4WD crawler/Truggies all the time.

Nice work, are you using original Tamiya TLT axles or are those after market from RC4WD.com? If you aren't aware of this site, they make all kinds of aftermarket SCALE axles ranging from Scale RC 1.9-2.2 and even the BigBoy stuff in 1/8 scale. When I was in RC, I use to purchase stuff from them quite a bit, so I can vouch for their product. Nice work on both the Drag truck and the tanker! I never could get into the RC Semi's, to rich for my blood.

Very impressive, you make it look so easy. I am almost half tempted to pull out my 70 cuda and start working on the body again.

I have to say that this build is outstanding! I keep looking at it all the time. Dave, can you tell me what size NOS bottles do most ADRL Xtreme Pro Mods run? Are they running twin 10, 15 or 20lb bottles?

Derrick, the other thing that I just noticed is it looks like you are tying off the chute hold downs up high if I am looking at this right. The actual place for the tie off is on the rear diff. At least this is where I have noticed them being mounted on the cars I have viewed at the ADRL Independence Drags. I stand corrected, anyone know what or how it is determined where the tie off is for chutes? What determines if it is mounted off of the rear end or on the mount off of the chassis?

I really like that early model Stang and the Willys, they look like a lot of work went into them to get them more accurate.