eviltwincustoms

Looking good Greg, it looks like you have made some nice progress. I really like your 3port hat, I think I am going to build my own now because I don't quite like the one from Flashpoint. It is a little off center and I would have to drill out the holes anyway. The line you are using looks like stuff from the Craft Section like at "Hobby Lobby". I know they have stuff that looks like that in Black already. Is this like what you are using possibly?

Thanks Joe, I see the 1/8 and 1/12 u-joints but nothing in 1/16 yet. Either I missed it or he hasn't put them up yet. Patiently waiting and Thanks for the update!

Good to hear... I have the tubs ordered not sure if I will use them or not, but we will see. I saw the Lenco tranny sections, plan on buying them, but kinda expensive for 4 parts, but Dave says they are pretty detailed stuff with the materials they are using. I was going to send them an email about making some Ujoints in 1/16 as well. I would like to have a set, and shouldn't be to hard for them since they already have them in 1/8 scale. My rear section is pretty much complete, just need to get my Wishbone mounts in place (need to decide do I want it above or below my rear end on the Mark Williams 11") and my mounts for my two bottles (fire suppression) mounted up. Waiting on my first order from Jim L, so I can wrap up some of the details and possibly have him work on cutting a few more things for me. Then wrap up the tranny mounts, Tranny tunnel and pedal mounts... Chute Pulls, pulls for fire suppression system, and NOS bottle mounts. and stuff like that in the drivers area.

Nice Start!... what wheels are those off of? They look like an old Centerline Wheel.

Joe, it looks pretty darn good to me from here. Very impressive for your first go round, I applaud you taking this on as your first chassis build! What rear end will you be using? The Mark Williams 11" or the Fabricated 9" rear? The best thing for you to do unless you have already done this is set up your chassis at ride height, set the rear end in at Ride Height. This way you can tell if your rear section is kicked up high enough. As well as being far enough apart to accept the 4 Link once mounted to the rear axle section. And last but not least your rear shocks will line up perpendicular to your rear axle and mount in the right spot. If you have those things all aligned and your tongue sticking out just right and the stars aligned you should be good. Don't worry I tore my rear section off multiple times because of the above things... And of course not liking how it was coming together. May I suggest as well, to cut your Access Hole in the Rear Deck lid of your 57. This way you can look down in side and make sure the chassis isn't riding anything on the body. I like to draw a center line on the front of my car and the rear on the inside. This is how I know the chassis is staying aligned with the body as well.

Thanks Wayne, I will go hunt down a TrueValue Hardware store and see if they may have something. If not i will be getting in touch.

Thanks for the complement Scott... it is very simplistic. ... I say Steal AWAY!!! Anything I can do to help another customizer, I feel privileged.

Thanks for the TIP... I will have to check it out!

Nice project, I would have to say that FC Chassis would be the first thing to go in the parts bin and build something more realistic. The flat sides just kills that piece what a shame.

badgass, krazyglu, and Batzilla, Thank you for the complements, it is greatly appreciated. If anyone has an suggestions on where I can search for a miniature spring, it would be much appreciated. Found some on the Bay, but could go smaller possibly. My next project, I am sure others will get a kick out of as I begin moving forward on the build! So many plans for this build, just hoping I can pull them all off. Joe you are correct, it could be used in many places. It is pulled directly from a 1:1 door handle mechanism where it attaches to the door/rod. That little "Z" section... only difference is that on the 1:1 they have a little plastic piece that would drop down over the bar and snap to secure it from falling off of the door handle.

Well I for one think it looks pretty much spot on, and darn cool! About the only thing you could have done would have been to either raise the back of the body up further or shorten the mechanism from the frame out to the part that holds the weight. And figure if you were to do that it just wouldn't look right.

Very cool looking, I was searching on ebay and saw a Japanese model company (dont think it was Tamiya) 1/16 motorized car. The guy took photo's of the instructions and it shows the motor and tranny built into the styrene engine block and the axles and pinion. Any way I digressed. Awesome pics of how you are getting it to all come together!

This is a great idea, thanks for posting this. I would need to brush up on my electronics unless you are planning on posting all the values that would be needed for each part. Basically just buy an electronics peg board and run small wire connectors to each and solder. Brings me back to my High School days building a basic computer.

The Stang2 looks amazing, love the details just enough to not be all out of control.

This is a cool looking build, I can see Rooster tails coming off of all 4 tires from running across the Mud Bog.

I was going to say there are a few NASCAR drivers that actually drive short track, so I don't see any concern with it posted here.

Ok, some of you have asked to see the inner workings of the door. This is DEFCON 5 here and very confidential like "Area 51" stuff.... Here is a better pic of the hinge on the front of the door with the inner door skin in Primer. Almost done just a few touchup spots and it will be finished. As you can see I also have the inner door fire retardant sound barrier in place and this will be how it will look when buttoned up. This pic if you look close in the locked position you can see the piano wire protruding out in the locked position. And last but not least... the Class 6 TOP SECRET part everyone has been asking for. The spring I had was to small and didn't allow enough movement, so on a search for a different one. I have my eye on one now, just need to break down and buy them. You can see where I had to dig out some of the resin for the Piano wire, because of the door panel protruding inward, it started to interfere with the movement of the locking mechanism. Like I said, it is very simplistic and does the required job. I just have to notch the end to accept the opposite pin that is mounted on the chassis.

No problem, just trying to remember if my Brushless Motor I used on my 1/10 scale got hot or not. One thing I do remember is having a battery pack blow up on me due to over charging it. Was not a good sight, the cells were so hot I had to rip my Hilux off of the frame before my custom interior melted and caught fire. oops...

So Joe, in looking at the pic it looks like your resin engine block is resting right up against the 65turn CAN of the RC motor. Any worries about the CAN getting hot and warping the resin?

..... As I get my shovel out to pry your jaw off of the floor and the wet mop to clean up the drool... as I don't want to slip and fall as I might break something. Thanks Steven for the complement. I appreciate it Scott, I am glad that I am able to show case some of my many talents and share with others on this Board. I just wanted to say that I enjoyed getting to talk to you at the KC Slammers a couple months back. I have to say your new PE parts you are putting out are really nice, now I just need to put them to use on my 66 Nova project.

Paul, the 1/16 FC's on ebay are going for $40-$80 each, I would say just go with the Flashpoint Motorsport 1/16 Pro Mod slicks and they are only $15 for the pair. Much cheaper alternative and that is what I am using as well, then you can either stencil or use decals from M/T, Hoosier or Goodyear on them and put a flat clear on the tire over the decal and you will be good to go.

I have to ask, I was on your forum and saw you have a 1/16 40 Willys in Resin. Where did you find this and how can I go about acquiring one?

Chris if you don't mind me asking what size "Scale Hardware" bolts did you use to detail out the timing chain cover and pan?

Thanks Robert! And to think that it was your fault that spawned the whole Tube Chassis building, from your "Chassis 101" thread! I have just taken your basics and just built onto it from there with Reference Pics. So I have to say, a BIG Thank You goes out to you as well.

Try using Cork board, the light brown/tan of the board will contract quite nicely against the white or light grey resin parts.