eviltwincustoms

Brent, nice little job you got going on here. Your truck reminds me of my 1/64 Willys pickup Tow Car I built for my 40 willys 2door sedan pro street I was working on. Got tired of working on such small stuff, I stopped working on the 2 car set. Opening up the doors and hinging is hard on the fingers on that small stuff. That is why I started working on larger scale stuff again after an 8 yr hiatus.

Ewaskew, Prostreet and Tyrone, thank you all for the complements it is greatly appreciated. Any time that I can inspire or help someone step it up that next notch based on my work I feel blessed. Prostreet, anytime that I can help just ping me and I will do my best. Thanks Chris for the complement on the hinges. So the hanger on the chassis is Piano Wire (steel rod .039") bent in a 90 degree angle. Then the hinge on the door is styrene .080" styrene rod, drilled out with a .039 drill bit. Then took some .040 styrene rod and welded it to the .080 tube I made. Drill my holes into the door and insert and weld to the door, then put a 3rd leg from the .080 tub out to the side of the door. Very sold for being styrene!

Niko, very impressive work! I was thinking about picking up a falcon and doing something like this as well. You make me want to hunt one down even more. For the Tubs, have you thought about just using an Aluminum POP/soda or Beer can? Much cheaper and something you are more likely to already have around the house! Then just back it with styrene sheet and you are good to go. If interested let me know and I can take closer pics and show you the ones I made for my 66 Nova.

Very impressive work Chris.. I would hate to even imagine the amount of money you have in bolt studs and such for all the details. I cringe in thinking that I will have to do the same soon enough.

WOW Randy is all I can say. That rear end looks amazing taking styling queues from the Mark Williams Modular 9" rear end! All that detail and the scratch built 4 Link and Hubs is incredible, would have never thought to use washers to build on.

Here is an update on the Drivers door, hung and in its resting place. Now on to the mechanics in the door and then get the latch mounted to the chassis.

Thanks just purchased a set... very confused as to why these are not on the actual TDR website and on Shapeways.

If that is the case, I will be in for purchasing some of the different large scales and maybe even a Monster 1/8th to try and push myself that extra bit since I have never done anything over 1/10 scale.

Joe....nice start, I will be keeping an eye on this build up especially since you are doing turbos 80 mm I presume?

Very interesting concoction you came up with to weather the wheel/tire combo. I need to find a site to read up on all these paint detail hints! I have never been that good at the painting part of models, to make them look more realistic and "Used".

OK Greg.... holding out on us... SO I have to ask, can anyone get a hold of those 1/16 Tubs or were they a special one time deal?

Chris if I didn't know better, those headers look like they are store bought with the extra touches of the drilled holes. You have out done yourself on making those!

Thanks everyone for the complements... Joe... the great thing about using a dremel with a sanding drum, is it makes sanding painless with resin. You just have to be extremely cautious, because one slip and you will work right through the material and it will look like swiss cheese!.

That is a really nice car... but I would rather see you do a Blown motor! I would like to see some other pics of this car.

Thought I would post up some progress pics on the drivers door. Getting ready to mount it, just have to buy some some Steel rod since it is much more durable and wont bend easily when mounting and taking off the doors. I still have to build out the top of the door and add the functional latch lever and my functioning door mechanism to lock and unlock the door.... I have it all thought out, just need to make it happen. Here are some pics based off of a pro mod door that I have been modeling after. The final pic is so you can see just how the door mates up with the Firewall and closes everything off really nicely. one of the things about using Resin... is the darn thickness I hate that, so I thinned the door edges down to be more realistic. (left is original thickness... one on the right is thinned down) Pic of the inner door panel with the weight savings, and I will painting back behind a black and putting a fiber inside the door panel. With the door panel on.

Sweet.... that box is pretty big, what are your plans for hiding that bulky thing?

Darn, I thought you had some Jedi Mind trick thing that maybe a young padawan could learn . I find that when I bend the styrene, it still likes to flex back to a point where when I use flame once it cools you are golden because it doesn't try and reshape itself.

Joe are you going to use the F350 or Semi sound/light box for controlling your lights and sounds for the truck? I ask because I see you are wiring it up, and that would be cool because you would hear the blinkers flash and have your engine sound.

Now are you using 3/16" Rod or Styrene tubing? Is there somewhere I can read up on this Friction/Body Heat technique? Because I use flame and you have to know where to hold the plastic and how far from the flame or you get a limp section and have to start all over again. This process sounds intriguing..... inquiring minds want to know more!

Nice project, I will be keeping an eye on this. I really like when someone takes the time to build a ground up chassis for his project. Question, is there any special reason you went with half aluminum and half styrene on the main section?

Sorry I just noticed part of his chassis is aluminum.. so I am sure epoxy is the right thing to use here. If it was all styrene something like Plastruct Weld or Ambroid Pro Weld liquid cement. This stuff actually welds the styrene together as if it was one piece. I use the latter on all of my styrene projects.

Like Steven stated, I would say your Intake runners are to high unless going "Pro Street". If you look your block is sitting on the ground without an Oilpan. So you would need to raise the block a good scale 6-12" off of the ground. Then another 1-2" for ground clearance under the pan. If you make these changes, with that new intake you have modified your carbs are going to stick way up out of the Hood (Like a Blower). This engine should be under the cowl hood and the carbs should just begin protruding into the Cowl section.

Very interesting, don't think I have seen anything quite like this. What type of body will be luck enough to graze the curves of this Art Form?

My80malibu.... a little of both. I use a lot of reference photos and scan in 1/24scale stuff and resize print out and use as a templates. Just depends on what is needed.

Thanks Joe, I actually have a brand new can of the Tamiya silver leaf and may use it on my Chassis... Those tanks are shiney... stupid question did you then clear the tanks or is that just the shine from the Rattle Can?