eviltwincustoms

Joe, I am sure you have already worked with Dave on the Header situation... but I was using my calipers to calculate the difference from 5/32" to the Plastruct 1/8", the difference is only 0.0295" between the two. Which looks to be very small, however when scaled up works out to almost 1/2" difference. It would be close enough for Government work! Looking for some awesome updates from you soon... break out that camera when you can buddy..

Looking good Bill. This one looks like it is falling right into place. You have a knack for making things look easy.

Nice looking car.. As for the from end scraping, quite a few pro touring cars run air ride suspension. So this would raise the front end from scraping on those bumps.

Clay... and I thought you couldn't already out do yourself and you continually show us why you are one of the TOP builders we all look to for great execution! Just impressive with every update!

Exactly.... That is just out frikin standing! Just amazing work all around, and the decals just top it off. It looks like you shrunk down the original.

Just a small update for everyone, thought I would share before I wrap up the front and move on to the Corvette stinger hood. I shot some filler primer to see what pin holes I had in the front and so everyone could see the recessed front valance with the bumperettes (sp) on.

man Scott... do you think you will have any of this done by the Heartland Nats this year?

That would be correct, but I think Henry's original question was Blown or Turbo? Because you can run NOS on Turbo as well in PX.

Very cool looking wheels Jim, nice job on the Magnum. Are you up for doing a set of 1/12 scale wheels? Because I am going to need a set cut, thinking of doing another different style that hasn't been done yet by others.

Well very interesting... I have exact measurements from my wheels. They are 1.6905" to the outer lip. Inner Tire diameter when not stretched over the wheel is 1.6365" which scales out to be a 19" wheel/tire combo. I get the width somewhere around .8565" when scaled is a 10" wheel but that is measuring with the wheels still in the plastic and not put together. Based on my google search it says that is a Size: 19" x 9.5", 5 Lug, 4.5" Bolt Pattern with a "Hyper Silver" finish. They also make the wheel in an 18" wheel factory stock. So with all that said, LOL... I would venture to say they are a scale 19" wheel. I hope this helps out.

It is really about what you like most. I say don't build what others say... Build what you want! Even in 1:1, they run either blower or turbo based on how much money they want to spend. Blowers are more expensive and maintenance is much higher based on what I am reading on Yellowbullet. Turbo's sound like they are much more cost effective for the amount of Horsepower they put out, and cause less damage to your internals over time I guess.

Looking good Brett, nice "Chop, Cut, Rebuild" of that 55 into a FC! Keep them updates coming, excited to see what you have planned for a paint job as well.

Thanks Rom for thinking about me! This is just amazing work.... very impressed with your skills! I think you have been holding out on all of us with your brass work. Plus it sounds like you have thought of everything, because I was thinking as well... how are you going to cast that puppy with all those holes? So does Aquarium epoxy let loose so you can take it out of the holes? How are you going to get it out of your block you are creating once you have a cast? I only ask because I know nothing about Resin and Casting things, so I am just asking all kinds of stupid questions to help me understand how it works.

You know it is funny that Chris showed us how to make that Jig, because in SAE this months issue has a Jig in how to center holes in rod as well! How they show it is using two different size tubes. One just a size larger to fit over the rod you are going to drill and one sized down to go inside the larger tube to use as your guide. This way you know it is not only centered but also the exact same angle. This is usually where I screw up and drill down at the wrong angle and come out the side even if I am centered. LOL

I am only aware of 1 Mustang, 1 Daytona and no one has built a Corvette... so that excuse doesn't hold up. You just need to bite the bullet and make it happen! I say double... I wouldn't say it is the norm it really depends on the driver, I have seen quite a few blown cars with dual wheelies.

So are you putting this old style centerline wheel on a 10.5 car or a different build?

Dalton, you may want to really use this link that Robert posted for your 10.5 build. Based on the pictures that I looked at in the link below, the chassis in the back doesn't loop up and over. It should be more based off of a Pro Mod style rear section with a stock section from the firewall forward. Have you reached out to Robert for some input on the best way to get started on this daunting project? He is a wealth of knowledge and it sounds like he is open to help anyone out in their venture! http://www.skinnykidracecars.com/gallery/Steve+Nodiff/

Hum.... that is a bummer! I know Clay was saying he was going to do something with detailing welds as well. Sounds like the two of them are creating a conspiracy in the modeling community! LOL I did a quick Google Search and look what I came up with... http://www.bigscalemodels.com/tips/tipsfiles/scaleweld.pdf

I'm seeing twins here... You and Tyrone should put the two together for a photo shoot! I am more of a blower kinda guy, so seeing you put that down between the rails just looks sweet. But at the same time you don't see many turbo builds, so anything different does kinda stand out in the crowd. Keep up the great work Joe! Oh and those new HUB's look sweet, congrats on turning those yourself! Next is doing the wheels, Jim better watch out!

Man, this sure looks mean! Not only the stance but that blower sticking out of the hood really just adds to the effect.

Chris, I think you are on the right track.... but need to determine what direction you want to go... LOL I would even suggest using something like a silicone instead of a gasket. Take and make a gap in the part and put some RTV in between the parts. This way you can say it actually resembles a 1:1. Besides having that gap will give you the ability for some of it to squeeze out and show that Blue.

Sweet 67 Chevy II! I am still wanting to get one of these and chop the heck out of the interior and tub one out and fit it with a 454 and make it shine with an 8-71 blower sitting on top. Maybe some day, when I grow up and all the kids are gone... Darryl, that is a lot of stickers you have all along the bottom of your car! Do you still have the Nova in your possession?

Nice chopped top on that 55.. I wonder how he hot that dent in the upper part of the quarter panel?

Hey Luc I hope Tim gets back with you.. Just as an FYI most of the parts are created by modelers and provided to TDR to sell. A good example is the engine parts and the screw blowers were all created by Dave Smith in true scale 1:1. I know Dave and even Phantom1 is spending or spent many dollars in having stuff created such as scale 1:1 pro mod bodies.. Just to have them done up in 3D before they could be printed in 3D. Really for us, it is about going out and either using cad and creating the things we want or find someone to do them. Then reach out to Tim to see of it is something he would be interested in putting on his site.

I'm thinking you May have to make some out of styrene and then just carve in the tread as needed... Just like Ken does for his 1/8 sprint cars.