eviltwincustoms

Lookin good Niko, that fuel pump looks sweet all in its place and having the braided line coming out of it. Nice job and keep them updates coming!

Now the wheelbase, you commented it being 115" but you moved it back a 1/16". Your actual scale for the wheelbase is 114", which still puts you at a nice length, just not the max that most run. So I took the liberty to do some calculating and scaling out a Chris Isaacs chassis from that 70 Duster Pro Mod build. Just in case.... I have already calculated the plotted drawing, it works out to be roughly 1/50th scale. I suggest that you use it for reference for your main intersect points since you aren't building to scale. If I am reading what you are saying and interpreting it correctly you have 2" from the front of your block to the front of the chassis. Correct? If this is accurate, you are only 5 thousandth's off from being where you need to be! See measurements below for accurate 1:1 scaled down to 1/16th. Now here is what you should have in place on your chassis vs. wheelbase set up and this will tell if your chassis is accurate and your body needs adjusted. On the 1:1 chassis/car you should have 26.5625" (1/16th scale = 1.66") from your windshield leading edge to the front wheel centerline. Then in 1:1 you will need 37.5" (1/16th scale 2.34") from the front wheel centerline to the leading edge of the front bumper. Or specific to your chassis you should have 32.8125" (1/16th scale =2.05") from the centerline of front wheel to the front of your chassis

Jim has some really good stuff. Another thing you can do is use the Aluminum slot car wheels made by Pro Track. You can pick them up off of Ebay, and get the aluminum beadlock to finish off the look on the Magnum wheel, make sure to strip the foam tire off and use one from the 1/24 or 1/25 pro stock kits. Also you can look at Pegasus (sp) they have them as well. I think they are for funny cars, but they would work.

Great build ROM, it looks amazing! I would love to see this thing in person especially out in the sunlight with that HOK and a slick polished out clear coat, I bet it looks out of this world.

Looks good, you are clipping right along on this project. I am confused, which isn't very hard to do these days with me. So are you saying your front clip of the chassis is to short or the actual resin body/front clip is now to short? Because I thought you said you had the wheelbase set at 115", so the body shouldn't be too short based on the measurement of the wheelbase you set up....

Well for my own jealous reasons.... I like the 4 hole hat that sits right down on top the screw blower, not sticking way up in the air.

Man ROM that door looks killer, I really like that smooth clean circular cut for the opening to the door latch. Care to share with us how you made the cut so precise?

Man Clay, this looks very awesome and I really like how you have your R2B2 set up. Looks much cleaner than the reference photo's that I used for my build. By chance do you have photo's of how the lap belts and such are mounted up? I like that set up you have for the restraints, been wondering how that should look. Lou, if interested you can go here for my 70.5 ADRL Camaro build http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=47419&st=0 Post number 184 is where the video is located that Clay is referring to.

Jack actually HOK doesn't make an Orion Blue. What ROM used was Orion Silver metallic for a base then laid down Oriental Blue Kandy. Post #1047 says the blue color.

Hey fellas, I have been lurking and posting on everyone's threads and putting in some bench time here and there whenever possible. It isn't much time but any little bit sure helps especially when it is dealing with body work. I have been working on the passengers side of the car smoothing it out and getting it proportioned so it doesn't look like a ridiculous wedge of plastic. LOL I thought I would post up a few pictures of some of the modifications that I have made. Finally finished the rockers and outlined where the door would open so everyone can see where the lines will be cut back into the body. Plus, formed in the one A-pillar just need to narrow the window openings back out to look like they are suppose to. I officially have my regulation 3" from the nose to the leading edge of the front wheel well. Then my 2" at the trailing end all the way back. I think I will wrap up the drivers side A-pillar then get the front bumper ette's (things on the front) molded in and then begin working on the Yenko hood scoop. Let me know what you think of these slight but much needed updates. Thanks for checking in.

Nice car Albert, looks like you are running a PSI screw blower? That darn guard rail is in the way.... As for Decals, some members are buying the 8x10.5" white decal sheets off of ebay and then using either the Testers Decal Clear or using an Auto 2 part clear dusting it before laying down a wetter coat.

Nice job, those door skins really finish it off. I am sure having them in carbon looks really nice up close. The pictures definitely don't do them any justice, they just look like black/grey pieces on the door. Tyrone, you really have out done yourself with this project it came out really nice that second time around! Looks like you may have a couple dimples in the clear on your deck lid... I have gotten to the point where I hate the Macro setting on my camera, because it will capture all the fine details that the naked eye can't see. So when are you going to put out your "Scale Pro Mod How To - DVD"? I am sure a bunch of people on here would be willing to see all of your little tips and techniques that you use in building your projects.

Wayne, you are a bigger man than I am... I don't think I could have brought myself to cut the nose off and the hole in the hood after painting it. :D Nice job on getting that front nose cut off with no casualties to the paint! Those Ross Gibson blocks are sure nice, but some times I think they create more work for us.

Man Clay, I am glued to the screen with this build you are playing in my sandbox and ready to learn from someone I have been following for quite a long time. I would like to know what type of photo box you are using. Plus that chassis is to die for, definitely be taking notes as you put this one together.

Man ROM that paint job is outstanding! That is the icing on the cake. You did a great job pulling it all together.

LoL.... I guess we all missed the boat on that one! Chris, don't you just love when you open the mail box and you have a package just waiting for you? Popping the tape and cracking open the box to see what is inside is the best part! Awesome parts as always Jim, does a bang up job!

Interesting, looks like something happened Roberts post is deleted now... The best way to post pictures is through photobucket or something similar. You can upload pics into the forum but I think their is a limit. If you have a photobucket account I can look at the pics that way as well. Curious, did you build your chassis for your vette?

Welcome to the forum Albert! First off we really should know what scale you are working with before providing you diameter sizes for tubing because we could be giving you the wrong size. Will you be working in 1/24 or 1/25, or the bigger scale of 1/16 or larger? If it is the smaller scale use what Robert provided to you. Now if you are jumping into the 1/16 scale you will need to use .100, .080 and .060. I have to ask, out of curiosity you have the location of MO. is this by chance Missouri? If so are you anywhere around the Branson or Springfield area? I am actually building a 1/16 scale 63 pro mod vette body from scratch and scaling it off of pictures of Jason Skrugg's car. I could really use some more reference pictures as I move around to some of the details and Chassis work. Thanks,

Very cool, it will be important for those not familiar with Pro Mod and Pro Stock that it is very clear which nose is which.

Most shops will use the same Clear with the same paint company. Such as DuPont paint they will most likely use DuPont ChromaClear. As with anything it is really about the chemicals in the clear coat not crazing and messing up your paint you laid down. This is why most will just stay with the same company they are using for base coats. As for primer same thing here you don't want to lay down a primer that will not work with your base coat or you will end up with issues in the end. I have gotten a little lazy and have been using Paint Bomb Auto Primer under my DuPont and House of Kolor base coats and it works fine no issues. The big thing is that using an auto primer, it is much thinner or you can mix to whatever consistency you need to spray at. With another plus you can use a faster drying reducer and move things along or slow down the drying time with a slower reducer. As for Clear's HOK doesn't make a 2K Clear..... You either have USC01 Kosmic Urethane Show Klear which is a fine polymer clear coat with a very high D.O.I (Distinctness of Image) for a high gloss shine. USCC01 - Kosmic Acrylic Urethane Kustom Klear - this is a middle ground clear coat and easy to buff out but yet hardens and becomes pretty tough. Then you have your Urethane/Polyurethane Enamels I have went to the TPC site a few times, but find Coast Airbrush a much better place and paint is cheaper, PLUS they also will mix it already reduced or you can reduce the paint yourself.

Now this is a cool looking truck! I would take this in a heartbeat, it looks like you could drive it away.

Scott, I received my Mark Williams catalogue and it has the 1:1 dimensions for the proper 4 link brackets for the 11" modular rear end if interested in making them for 1/16. I am using the measurements currently to make some out of brass for my Camaro.

Holly smokes those things are huge compared to the dominators. Very cool looking.

How about someone measure the Minor side of the Compressor like on a 1:1 and get the true dimensions this way? This would help everyone know exactly what MM not only the 3"and the 2.5" TDR Turbo actually are in a 1:1 application. Or by chance are these spec's that TRD uses, the actual scaled down dimensions for the compressor?

Hey Thanks Rom, if the Bell Housing is Flat on the top and bottom then you are correct Jack is good to go! I guess I can say my eyes are not adjusting the the picture because, to me..... the CAN doesn't look like it has flat spots on the top and bottom. My mistake, maybe I should by me a pair of those magnifying glasses on the hood like Chris has and that will help me out.