eviltwincustoms

Rom are you sure, or are you just referring to only the Pro Mod tires. In looking at the funny car ones, they look similar. Especially the 1/16 Fuel Altered slicks and the 1/16 Funny Car slicks might be similar. I don't know the scale 1:1 measurements but I would have to question if the Revell stuff is even scale?

NO problem, it is a bit difficult to explain. So where your Clutch CAN "Bell Housing" is sitting. You see that you have a chassis bar at the top and bottom of the CAN and on each side to form the firewall right? So the one on each side you can see it just clears the CAN for the proper width. However at the top and bottom, your Can "Lip" touches the top and bottom bars. On a real 1:1 this could never happen, because you have to be able to mount the "Bell Housing" to the Mid Plate that mounts to the firewall. That Mid plate mounts to the back of the Engine block first then your Multi disc clutch mounts to the mid plate then the Mid Plate should mount up tight against the chassis firewall. The way it is currently, you would be mounting the bell housing up against the chassis frame section and your Mid plate would stick out further away from the frame. I hope that helps.

I agree with everyone, it looks like the second execution came out exceptionally well! Great Job Tyrone... getting excited to see this one completed, so you can finish up my Nova and send it to me! Just let me know when you need my address.

Looking good Jack! Since I know nothing about brass and solder, I have a very novice question for you. When you solder each joint are you putting some sort of heat sink close by? Or by using the flux and something like "Tix" solder creating the sweat joint fast enough the other joints don't come loose? The other thing, you may have noticed and already taken note. If that is the clutch can you will be using, you may want to go back and raise that top bar a bit. You don't want to sandwich the Clutch Can between the chassis and our block mid plate. It should be in between the uprights and the top and bottom bars, and then you should be good to go! I really like how you made the front clip slip in and out of the rest of your frame. My understanding based on what Dave has mentioned, the front clip tubing should be smaller anyway. So you can actually down size from the firewall going forward!

I really like that duster, I wish I wasn't working on so many different projects I would add that one to my list as well. You say you don't like to use Drawings, but I sure hope you are using some sort of Reference Photo's especially since this is your first Pro Mod build. Just free handing away may not be the best way of building one, since you are going to the expense of using brass. Are you just starting out on the Chassis and you happened to just start with the Windshield/A-Pillars? If so, that is kind of an odd place to pick a starting point. Usually you want to start with the main floor shape (Pics of an actual 70 Duster Pro Mod build up): Then build up the Main HOOP: Then move forward into the A-Pillars. Most chassis builders will make the A-Pillar all one piece running from the main hoop to the front. Here is a Pic to show what I am referring to. Some will even go as far as to build out the floor first then go up with the main hoop, and then put in the cross braces last so you have room to put all the interior details.

Interesting color choice, I am excited to see what artistic flavor you end up kissing this body with.

You can try Flashpoint Motorsports! They have some really nice FC and Pro Mod tires that are solid rubber.

Watch out ROM!!!! That Solder Cobra Snake is coiled and ready to strike! Or are you playing your magical flute?

Amazing work as always Chris, we both must have been thinking the same thing. I set down at the bench last night as well for a couple hours, only to get 2 of the 4 brackets I am making completed. Drilling holes and cutting shapes out is very time consuming!

Looks good Joe, but it looks like your exhaust outlet is a little anemic. What size diameter tube is that you are using? Curious, are you going to get enough flex in that Resin Nose to bow it out to get the fender over the exhaust outlets?

Not this year, I think 2010 or 2011 was the last year for the Topeka, Kansas to sponsor ADRL during the Independence Drags. I was hoping I could catch something like the Midwest Outlaws or something in like Branson Missouri or Springfield MO area...

Very interesting about the Braswell Carb (B-7520) Pulled from Braswell.com's website: The B-7520 2 bbl has become the standard for multiple carburetion in high horsepower racing engines. It was the first in our 7000 series of carburetors. Designed from start to finish as a racing carburetor, drawing on our over 4 decades of experience in the manufacturing of carburetors for motorsports. It was introduced to the market in 2007 to fill the demand for multiple carburetor applications using the 2 bbl format. This new carburetor eliminated the former requirement of having to take a 4 bbl carburetor and cut it in half to make a "split". Even when split, the available carburetors which were based on a 40+ year old design have been proven inadequate for today's modern racing engines. The performance of the B-7520 speaks for itself, holding current naturally aspirated and N2O records for the quickest and fastest carbureted runs around the world. Popular with Mountain Motor Pro Stock, Pro-Mod, Competition Eliminator, Top Sportsman, 10.5 Outlaw and Quick-8 classes. So Dave, are more racers then going to this Carb versus the split 2 barrel that looks more like a 4 barrel carburetor then?

I believe he said they are going on his 1/8th scale 69 Camaro Pro Mod build he is working on.

I see where you are coming from and I am sure there are plenty more just like you that love to build this was as well. But I would have to ask, if you are building a Braille battery if it didn't have the decal (art work) would it actually be built as you say, a "Well Detailed or perfectly" built part or even an "Accurate" part at that point? In my opinion I would have to say "no". This is why it is important to go that extra mile and capture the proper decal images as necessary to complete your scratch parts, so they look like the real thing. The Optima batter is very distinctive with its cylindrical cells, but without the oval "Optima" decal it still isn't "Well Detailed" or "Accurate" either. It sure would make things easier if we did have someone making new decals in 1/16th scale, for those of us without an Alps Printer for white and metallic decals.

Dave you have a superb memory, all that racing and reading up serves you well. For those of us, less fortunate that are not aware of the Sanctioning Rules for ADRL, Just a quick glance at the ADRL site for the New Pro Modified 2012 Rules it says the following about Ballasts: "Ballast: Permitted. Any ballast mounted on, or in front of, forward crossmember is limited to 30 lbs maximum, including bracket. Maximum length of bracket 12", measured from the front of the crossmember. Maximum distance from front motor plate to front of bracket is 36". Bracket may be constructed of either min 1 1/4" x .058" wall round chromoly tubing with min four 3/8" diameter SAE grade 8 bolts for attachment. Other designs for mounting weight forward of front crossmember must be ADRL accepted prior to use. All other weight bars, pucks, etc. must use minimum 1/2" diameter SAE grade 8 bolts for attachment." As for Batteries in this Class: Maximum of 2 batteries allowed. All batteries must be securely fastened. Batteries (including battery box) must weight less than 100lbs. An external master electrical shut off clearly labled "Push Off" is required. Pro Nitros doesn't have the weight limit outlined in the 2012 specs. Oh and the potential reason for 2 batteries is possibly due to the mandatory onboard starter required that all cars in this class be self starting in the new ADRL/NHRA Pro Mod class. But like Dave said, lighter is better in the ADRL only class. Very interesting if you are building an NHRA Pro Mod, some things to keep in mind when building it up around the "Ballasts" to be accurate.

Yep and only 14-71 Roots blowers as well, so they couldn't run anything bigger.

IMHO, I would just leave the headers the way they are. I don't see any other weathering on the build, so I would suggest leaving the bluing off of them. To me it looks like a brand new rebuild of the engine and paint job ready for its first maiden voyage down the strip!

Joe, I was going through my turbo pictures on my hard drive and came across this one. Figured it may help you out with placement!

Yep I was reading about this new classification. In fact it was either you or another person posted something about the new class. Very interesting for sure.. Weight, cubic inches, wheelbase are the obvious ones. Oh and of course no power adders on superchargers I am sure. So Dave with the NHRA/ADRL pro mod class do the only run 1/8th mile or the full quarter mile? Oh I remember now, it was on a racing forum I was reading about the new classification.

Thanks for the close up pics, beautiful piece of art! Actually in the first picture on the right side it looks like you are building something with a curved body panel.

I have the rules for ADRL for extreme pro mod and extreme 10.5. It would be good to have the NHRA book, but it looks like you have to be either a member or pay for the book.

That is funny.... nice find! Gotta love the photoshop mishaps!

Great story, and really like the build up pictures they are very helpful for anyone building a scratch chassis for bar placement. I wish I had parents that could loan me money like that. Then I would have to learn how to drive something that powerful down the strip.

Ken, you do a fantastic job on the tires. I still can't believe that they are scratch built! Can I get a closer picture of what that part is that is formed with all the braces in it? It looks like a curved body piece, but not sure.

Very interesting Gregg, I like how you mounted up the Wishbone to the 4Link instead of off the chassis. I see you also went off of the center bar mount between the 4 link by the rear end housing instead of mounted to the housing. NICE Job!