eviltwincustoms

Joe - Thanks man for complement! I have my fingers crossed and my thoughts are that based on the way I did the full styrene and then cut out the window, I hopefully wont have any fitment issues. Time will tell in the end, because I may have to use some pretty fast drying glue. Chris - Keep digging the body..... because that lets me know I am at least doing something right. If this changes please let me know if something needs to be tweaked and changed up... because it is everyone's feedback that lets me know I missed or overlooked something that should be changed. Thanks for the props, much appreciated! Bill - I can only hope it will look awesome the closer I get to that primer stage! You and me both, I can't wait either... because this body work is the most hated stage for me. I am a very visual person, and struggle seeing the end result in my head! I have to have the changes made on the car so I can see what it looks like. The issue with this process, is if it doesn't work for me and looks wrong... then I have to tear it completely down and start over. As always I really appreciate everyone sticking with me on this slow going process.. I don't consider myself a body man, so I am struggling through this process, with my fingers and toes crossed in hopes that everything will turn out to look as close as possible to the Pro Mod Vette's that are running down the tracks currently.

Joe, Tyrone, Chris... Thanks man for checking in, I appreciate you looking in and checking out my updates. I am starting to feel like something is getting accomplished as it starts to look like something other than slabs of plastic from multiple cars. lol. Quick update for those that have been checking in... I spent time tonight cutting the windows out, she is starting to look like a car again! Not like a floating top or a white stryrene bubble top... Ok, enough babble... one with the pictures...

I thought I would show a small update on my project, kind of a precursor to me cutting the windows back out and adding the inner window lips to the windshield and side windows. I decided to fill the windows in and then cut them back out, this way I get a really nice smooth transition from the windows and windshield do the body of the car. I cut the ugly front windshield lip off and now it transitions like it was a fiberglass/carbon fiber window very smooth transition from the A-Pillars down to the body. I took some time to reshape the doors so they are rounded from the top down more unlike the kit it was a bit of a drop off and not a very smooth transition from the roof to the side. It is a bit hard to see with all the white styrene, especially since I didn't draw the window's back in but you get the gist of what I have accomplished so far. Thanks for checking in.

I will be keeping my eye on this build as well... great to see another 1/16th build taking place. Welcome to the family of Pro Mod builds.

Greg.... that be the one I use, I really like it because it is nice and slow but does a really nice job at getting a pretty parallel smooth surface. I have never tried the round ball that you have, and at my local hobby store they have one that is a bit bigger than the one you showed. I have been wondering if it would work very well, especially on the compound curves on the inside of the body. May have to give it a try! Oh, a tip for you... may not be as good with the ground out resin. But if you use the finer stuff you sand down, if you have a hole you can throw some on the hole and put some CA glue on it, and it will heat up and melt right back down in that hole. Some sanding will be needed and possibly a file due to it being a bit harder due to the CA, but it will work and not have to worry about it popping back out later on.

Joe sounds like you are growing down some money on a nice motor kit as,well... Let me know what it looks like once you have it in hand. I really want the blower intake manifold. Very curious how close to scale it is.

Very cool... Looks like it is taking shape. Just wish it was a 70 Duster or a Cuda. Those are some that I would like to see next.

Wow Greg you have quite a mess on your hands...... LOL. Curious what bits are you using to clean the inside? The one I use looks like a cylinder with vertical teeth and it is flat on the bottom. This is what I used to clean out the trunk area and the tail light section. I should have done the same with the roof but didn't want to deal with the mess. That main hoop with that drop bar is definitely something I don't see all the time. curious to see what other differences you have planned with your chassis.

Great pics, I see quite a few models were dwarfed by Dave Smiths 1/8th scale stuff. It's a shame don't see much in the way of 1/16th or bigger. I am sure there was a lot to choose from in the way of deciding on what to shoot for others to see... I wouldnt have known where to start.

Man Tyrone that looks sick! I saw that motor in there and had to take a second look at your post. I was like, Tyrone you were holding out on us! The front clip looks right at home all cut out. Shame to hear about your Mustang that was another nice build. At least you can salvage parts from it for this one.

Great reference pics Jack! Looks like you had some fun in the pits taking pictures... Hopefully you got the opportunity to talk with some of the drivers.

Great job so far Nick! Keep those progress pics coming. As for color, I like the orange idea. Not sure if you have an airbrush, but if you do you might want to think about a HOK Tangelo or Sunrise Pearl. Both are really nice bright oranges that House of Kolor mixes. You can get them from Coast Airbrush in a 2oz bottle for on the cheap. Then you can use an automotive clear in a paint bomb and clear it and be fine. Say on your 10.5 tires, you may want to look up a couple other threads on here. We have a forum member that casts rubber 10.5 tires and from what I am seeing posted they are really good. If that is something you decide to do, just send MicroNitro the tire and he can cut them to fit. This way you don't have to worry about getting the wrong size. Jim will take care of you!

Very interesting, Thanks Louie for the picks. I know a bunch of people have been asking about it in the General Section as well. So $50 for the plating kit, isn't bad but what amount of product is used to plate that whole PE you did? Did it take much of the plating solution to do one sheet?

Richard - Thanks for the complement, much appreciated! I wouldn't want one of the moderators to censor the thread talking about my rear end! LOL Tyrone, thanks for the KUDO's it keeps me going. I like to show updates so others have plenty of reference materials. You are on your way to an awesome chassis build on your 57 Chevy as well my man!

Thanks Clay for the props! The tubing I am using is from my old Slot Car Drag racing days.... I had some left over 0.072 and 0.082, so I used both since they are really close to the 1 1/4" and the 1 3/8" tubing I am seeing in Quartermax Racing catalog for the Heavy Duty Pro 4link bar kit.

Just a small update for everyone, after redoing the rear chassis and the funny car cage I started working on the Anti sway bar linkage. I have one side mocked up and will leave the other side off so I can get the tube out for paint and clear. I mocked up my Brass arms after the Quartermax Pro Series Anti-sway bar kit they sell. Thanks to Dirtmodeler's brass 4 link brackets, I was able to modify them to work for what I needed. Then the usual RB Motion Rod ends and stainless tubing and this is what I ended up with.

You can either heat it or use friction and bend to shape. The only issue with the second method is it will want to spring back. To help with deforming, use a candle so you can hold the piece with both hands and rotate the rod and go from side to side to heat up the section you are wanting to bend. This will help so it doesn't deform, when this happens you are getting that part of the rod to hot so it will swell or not hot enough and it looks like one side smashes in like the old way of bending your tail pipe on a car... LOL

Very nice set up on the master cylinder and mount, looks like it was made for your car... You are doing some great work on your lathe, sounds like pretty soon you will be turning your own wheels and milling the centers out on your own soon!

You are sort of correct, it does state the above but it doesn't specifically state the material on the passengers side, it says "Drivers Compartment", meaning the drivers side of the car. I know the rules change, so not sure how the 2012 is interpreted compared to 2009 but I have a picture of Jason Skruggs 67/68 Camaro he ran in the ADRL and he has Carbon Fiber on the passengers side floor.

Clay this is just amazing! I have been following your stuff for quite some time, before the "Blackbeard Camaro" my all time favorite was your Richie Stevens Jr's NHRA Mopar Pro Stock Dodge Stratus in the October 2009 edition of SA. That car had some amazing details in the multi disc clutch and the pigment to simulate Clutch dust... that was just crazy! With this being 1/16th, I am looking forward to see what you post every time. You are just knocking this one out of the Ball Park with a Home Run on every update.

Oh man... what a sight for sore eyes.... seeing your chassis in primer! Look at all those TAB's sticking out.

It does look like a nice car, but without having it in hand it looks to be a bit out of whack for today's 63 Corvette's that are running. The front nose looks spot on and the rear end looks good as well, I just struggle with the doors and the A-pillar's they look like they are still the original length and angle. Now GREGG.... If you come up with the MOOLAH... to do a 3D venture to do the 63 Vette and or a Duster, I would be all over those bodies in a heart beat! I would have to let mine set and even the 69 Camaro continue to set in the box, because I would want to build one of these instead... LOL

I'm intrigued by your mock up thus far... keep it going looking good Greg! I thought I saw an email for Paul Rowe as well on the 1/16th Facebook group... if anyone is interested you may be able to get Paul that way as well.

Man Chris, this is just AMAZING... to see this much work into the frame and you are just about to shoot it with some primer. You have already heard this from us, but what a shame to hit it with paint now. LOL I hope the details pop even more once you have the paint on it. What an accomplishment to get this project this far and finally be out of the woods with Tabs and more Tabs!

Looking pretty darn good if I do say so myself! You are kicking some butt and taking names Tyrone... keep up the great work.