eviltwincustoms

Hey Greg, buddy I know what you mean when you do all that detailed tub work and find out it isn't going to work. My latest venture was with the Main tube back after finally getting my 4link set up mounted. I found out that I was to wide to mount up my Anti-sway bar set up and not hit my frame when it moves... I guess this is the set back when you make things functional. If I would have just glued it in place, I wouldn't have had to worry about it. I just had to set my project to the side for some time, and I think after having done that, I have completed more work on it in the last couple of days than I did over the last 45 days or so total. Can't wait to see what you have planned on your 70 Camaro.... I will be taking your idea's and applying them to my next build be it the TDR Camaro or my Corvette.

Greg, I think I can help you out buddy! There are actually two different sets that can be used and will give you a bit of a difference in measurement. The ones I used, I will supply you the measurement Center to Center of top and bottom tubing = .7670" Or the Top to Bottom you requested is 0.6525" On the other set the Top to bottom is 0.6825", I didn't use these because the holes are to small and to close together for the 00-90 threaded screws. Hope this helps!

Sounds like you are in Heaven... I went to all but last years ADRL races in Topeka Kansas when they had the tour. Fun packed 2 days of spending time in the pits with the drivers and shooting the bull with them. I talked to Jason Skruggs and his father when they running the 69 camaro, very nice car! If anything check out this site for the 2012 Rule Book, it wont let me download it.. but I have the 2011 book. http://www.adrl.us/competition/rules/ You can do a Max of 2 batteries, and must have an external "Push Off" switch. And you can only run one Mag! So max of one spark plug per cylinder on all supercharged and turbo cars.

Thanks Dave, I almost wan'ted to scrap my entire project and start over! LOL... j/k, I thought I was gonna have to find a smiley Icon slapping a face for Joe. LOL Now Rom.... you know you can't set back for to long... you have a NEW project that you have to get to work on very soon! Hey now Jack that isn't fair! lol.... just kidding, if anything that I have done helps you out in any way please feel free to steal/copy away! On a side note, DirtModeler pinged me and I provided him with some measurements of the printed MW 11" Modular rear end housing. So he is working on some updated 4 link housing brackets to fit this piece.

That they do! My favorite class, light weight and super fast!

So Ken, I see the subtle differences in just the body panels. Now is there any differences in the chassis set up being this one is pavement vs. dirt? I can see some chassis bracing a bit different, but more curious about how they are built one vs. the other to withstand, I would think a different type of torque on the chassis.

Sounds like you are getting closer!

You know Scott, even a sheet of different brackets would be cool. This way you could mix and match and just use what you need off of a sheet.

I agree, you said so yourself they are each a little different. It would be nice for you to point out the differences and educate those of us that are not familiar with the sprint cars... such as myself! This is how I learn, watching others build and point out the little different things about the builds. Thanks Ken.

Thanks guys for checking in and providing the complements, I feel good about the changes and how things are rolling. I have high hopes to have most of the chassis back together again, where I was originally and on its own feet in the coming days. Hopefully in the next couple of days, but we will see. Joe that is a great question, one that I knew I needed to have a mounting point on the rear end housing but totally forgot about where it would go. So I have remedied that issue and have my mount on the chassis with the set up pretty much complete. Just have to get my Rod ends from Rob. If all if it comes together without a hitch it should look like I meant to do what I did... lol

Like Mike said, nice start... I am sure you will knock this one out of the park as well..

I have to come back and make some minor adjustments to the lengths to get the rear end clocked right. But getting closer.

I agree with everyone else x2! Jim's work is really outstanding and his wheels are very easy to polish up. I just use 3M medium grit Automotive buffing compound and my dremel and then finish it off with detail polish and then you can see reflection. No need for sandpaper.

I still see them in my local hobby store, so I think they are still available. I see them advertised in the other Model Car Magazine all the time.

Thanks Guys for the very positive feedback, Phantom1 - Thanks Henry! You and me both, I can't wait to get some paint on that rear housing. As soon as I finish up getting my ride height set and my rear end complete I will be shooting it with paint. I want to make sure I dont need to touch in very much once I put paint on it. That darn Alclad paint rubs off way to easy. Prostreet - Joe, talk about shaky hands.... that is me as well. I had my small tweezers and just going to town. That Zap a Gap CA, with these small pieces doesn't set up fast enough! LOL I was getting frustrated because I would end up with CA on my brass parts and my tweezers wouldn't open up. Thanks for the complement, you know me I spend way to much time worrying about the small details! Dragracer - Richard, Thanks for the kind words and thinking about my health... when I was younger, I always told my dad I would never be like him and get my back injured. Being young and naive doesn't help...lol having worked in the warehouse environment for way to many years before my current job kinda drove my back problems. Tyrone - not sure how you do it, but man I have a hard enough time trying to keep up with you and your skills. Thanks bud for the complement! Mooneyzs - Chris, Thanks much for the positive reinforcement, you know it gets frustrating at times having to tear things back apart. I think that is some of the reason why I have slowed down on this project... Read on for what I had to do below. LOL As for the brass, I used K&S .015" thickness which puts me really close to that 1/4" thickness on a 1:1. I am really psyched about my next update to show everyone... but I will wait till I get my tubing built back up for everything I had to tear back out. Maybe I will take some pics of what it torn apart... LOL Baddgas - Derrick, Thanks man I am glad you like what you see!.... I know I am slow on update.. but what about your build? Any updates for the rest of us followers? Comp1839 - Dave, Thanks, man I guess I should have asked you some time back to be more specific about that dimension you provided to me when you were building your Camaro... So I wouldn't have had to tear my chassis back apart. LOL... I sort of knew it looked to wide in the back, and feared that I was gonna have to tear into it sooner or later. Memysel - Thanks for stopping in! You ask how I sleep at night, some times I have to ask myself that question because I have idea's running through my head on how I am going to try and do something. Just like last night I was up way past my regular bed time... didn't get to bed until 1:00am which is unusual for me. Had my car torn down way to far and wanted my rear end mounted up with Shocks in place... so I kept saying just 30 more minutes.... and when I looked up I say ######... it is late, but I have to finish getting my shocks mounted! parr7226 - Rick, Thank you for your kind words and your advice. I completely understand what you are saying, I have been seeing a chiropractor for the last 4 months and I am doing better. I think that having to look down for long periods of time does aggravate my issue. I stare at multiple monitor screens over 10hrs a day, 5 days a week and have to be mindful of not slouching, just because of my neck and back. Very frustrating that something so small plays such an important in your daily life can turn things upside down. Just a small update, no pics sorry! I have been pounding my head up against the wall after putting the rear end in my chassis. Needless to say I had to tear the entire back half off and rebuild most of it due to being to wide. I also wanted to swap out my 4 link brackets for the brass ones, and had to make some changes to my Main HOOP causing me to rip out my entire funny car cage. So back to the drawing board I go... But hey, I got my Rear end set at ride height with all 4 links mounted and even my rear Shocks mounted up after redoing the back half! So at least I have made some movement... LOL I think you can call it movement, after having to redo 35% of my chassis work.

This is a TOP notch build Tyrone, and if you can get the decal on that Brad made up for you, you will be in like Flinn! That will just put the finishing touches on it! outstanding job on the detailing on this build, you definitely took this one up a couple notches from the previous builds. Now get to moving on MY NOVA!

Then it would be worth of the title "Muscle Machine"!

Well, I think it is time for a much needed update on this thread. I thought I would post of a small update for everyone before it goes off to primer and paint to finish off the housing and brackets. I have been working effortlessly on trying to cut the proper 4 link housing brackets for this TDR Mark Williams 11" rear end. Finally after numerous failed attempts equaling countless hrs I was able to turn out something that I am satisfied with. Just so everyone is aware...lol... I am not lucky either in getting things right the first try. The first set I made was out of aluminum and they were more for a 9" fabricated housing and didn't look right at all on the Mark Williams rear end.I had been dreading having to remake the brackets. So I started over with my 2nd attempt (upper left) in brass, I really liked them but after drilling the holes I immediately found out that the holes were to small for the 00-90 bolt. I couldn't ream the hole out because they were to close together. So off to the side they went and I started over. Third attempt (upper right) I them cut out and started drilling the holes the proper size and they were not lined up, so I stopped. Then after finally getting my Mark Williams Enterprises catalog, I found exact measurements for the brackets. With that being said I set out to try and replicate them just like the 1:1. Then determined that the .0100 brass I was using was to thin, so I went back to the drawing board. Finally after the 6th attempt, I was able to turn out what you see below. I fabbed up some brass brackets and made my wheelie bar mount, then topped it off with some of the "Dirt Modeler" smaller brackets to finish off my mounts for the wheelie bar. Then I turned to making the bottom mount, so that I would have something to mount my Wishbone to.

jay8allday Jerry - Thanks for the complement, it is a great challenge getting things to move. I think I have grown fond of 1/16th scale vs. 1/24. I question how I could ever see some of those small details outside of what I am working with now. pharr7226 Rick - I have to agree, Jim (MicroNitro) does an awesome job and turning these struts out. ybsluos Thanks Mark, I am not worthy myself of the complements I just try and show others what can be done. In hopes that it encourages others to challenge themselves with their own projects. If anyone finds parts of my build of use, I encourage them to steal the concept and use as they would like. Man ROM, I am not sure I can live up to your Daytona.... I had to stop and enjoy your progress pics. I haven't done much with this project because I have been beating myself up over this update for everyone.... plus having my upper back go out I was in pain for a couple weeks until the chiropractor was able to get my back and neck aligned again. Now I can only work for about 2 hrs in looking down at the parts before my neck and back begin to have shooting pain. I am always being told that I need to quit doing this stuff, but I just can't get myself to stop. I find it to much of a way to relax from the daily stress of my job.

Oh ok, that looks very similar to the one I just finished building based on the Mark Williams pic I have from their Catalog.

Nice wheelie bar set up Joe, looks like it is ready to hook up to a 1:1 and give it a test run! Curious where did you end up setting up your top connecting points?

Just ridiculously crazy, loving the pulley assembly and that trigger wheel just pops right out on that balancer and looks like a million bucks!

Great update, really like those wheels!

WOW, I feel really incompetent right now just seeing this work is just spectacular! I will need to take a look at the R2B2 chassis closer, because this was a feature I definitely over looked from a detail perspective. Great execution Clay, man I am learning something new every time I see your updates!

I have to agree with Wayne, I have seen the Fairmont body at the Heartland Nationals last year. Very slick body, I would say that Scott took a lot of time and consideration in making sure it was as accurate as possible.