eviltwincustoms

Joe, his site says he is going to release the 1/16th stuff and that would be it for him until his inventory runs out of everything.

Hey Mark, by chance have you used Microscale "Micro Metal Foil Adhesive"? I have used that with some really thin foil not the Bare Metal foil stuff, similar to what others are saying about using aluminum foil. I found this to work in a semi OK fashion and still give you a decent result. However... this is my fancy "Butt" I did find it to not last long, as the adhesion wasn't as good as it could have been. I found it to let go after awhile.

Ah... man, sorry to hear that Niko, that has got to be quite a pain in the neck. I am sure without that problem, you would be in heaven knowing you only needed to clear and polish to have a final product. Well keep us posted on your paint job, I have my fingers crossed for ya.

Mark is right, you will find a lot of imperfections and even major mold lines on the Ertl and Maisto stuff. So for me I like to strip them all the way down, fix the concerns and shoot them with my base. Then use the Clear to build back up to what would have been the factory thickness, because your cars with opening doors I find leaving the paint on and shooting over it, your door lines will be very close together. Which could cause you to pop the paint off if they two hit due to not enough clearance.

Thanks for clearing that up.... Let me see if I can answer some of your questions.. No keep in mind these are my ways of doing things, and others my do something different. Just like anything... You don't bring a Pocket Knife to a Gun fight... lol so you are correct to cut a diecast the #11 xacto knife wont work. Same as with working on a 1:1 car same principles apply. Some sort of Rotary tool "Air or Electric", so depending on what you have access to. Most here if you don't work on 1:1's for body work, then you are more than likely going to use a dremel moto tool. As for Cut off wheels for the dremel, I use the Dremel Cut-Off wheels #409, the container comes with 36 pieces. Dremel makes a thicker cut off wheel but I don't recommend those because they take out a much larger relief when cutting something. Or you can use a Diamond Cut-off wheel. I like the first option, even if they do break more often, due to not needing to continually keep your parts cooled down. Because the Diamond wheel, needs to be cooled or it will wear off the coating fairly quickly. Question: What tool do you recommend to remove things like high-relief rivets and other exterior parts that are cast as part of the body? My suggestion is to use the Dremel Moto tool and either a sanding drum or Cut-off disc and use it just like a Grinder you would use on a 1:1 car or truck. You would grind it down to almost to the body and use a fine metal file and file down and sand rest of the way down with 120 Grit paper. Then fill with body glaze as needed and primer and paint. Question: What to Drill Holes with? This depends on the size of the Hole... I will usually use a cordless drill, because my dremel moto tool with a keyless chuck has a really bad run out and makes the hole oblong. Question: What about chopping a top? Dremel Moto Tool... Not a surgeon, just use the old adage, "Measure twice and cut once". Question: What about stripping of the baked on paint? I have access to a friend that has a Sandblaster, so I strip all mine the same was as a 1:1. You can also use Laquer Thinner or even a regular automotive paint stripper (or the Aircraft Stripper you mentioned) that you apply with a brush and wipe off. You don't want to paint directly over the original paint, because the factory paint is really thicker than it should be and when you strip the paint off you will see exactly how much detail is lost from the factory. Question: What about the primer, should I use self-etching?This is really up to you, myself I have never used the self-etching primer. I will either use House of Kolor Base white primer or the Walmart Grey self filling primer in the automotive isle. I have never had any issues with the paint lifting off of the cars that I have done. Really it is about making sure all the oils are off of the metal, so by using a Tack Rag on the body and don't touch it after that during paint. you will be fine. I hope this helps.

This is so true... not only Detail but more attention to the DETAIL's. A great example is if you are doing a pro mod, it isn't like 1/25 where you can fudge the dimensions and just add to the nose of the car. In the larger scale your body mods become just like in 1:1.

What??? Why would you need to remove the red paint? Are you going to repaint the NOVA again then? The polishing set is use to polish the clear coat that goes on top of the paint.... am I missing something?

Not quite sure what you mean by Typical Sandpapers.... because the same automotive sandpaper used for diecast I use on my plastic models. The only difference is the GRIT you use... Of course you are not going to use 80 GRIT paper on a plastic model because you would be digging groves in the body. There seems to be this misconception that Diecast is so much different in working with than with plastic/styrene.... this couldn't be further from the truth. The same principles apply. All the way from body work to the final product and color sanding and buffing, you are using different courses of sandpaper to get to your final product. As for welding the metal pieces together, Diecast can be some what delicate because with the Pop Metal you really can't "Weld" per say. I use 5 Minute Epoxy (JB Quick) to weld my two parts together and if needed I will pin the two parts with brass rod and epoxy. All my body work is done with Automotive Bondo preferably "EverCoat Euro-soft" Polyester glazing 2 part Automotive putty. It is much easier to work with and seems to have less pin holes you have to go back and fill in. This is the same stuff I use on my Plastic Models as well and use the Tamiya green glaze putty as my final block sanding if needed.

Ok.... I am glad someone else feels the same way, I didn't want to crush any feelings from anyone that may have thought differently.

I am sure Reliable Resins has had one for some time. But Resin is a pain, knowing it will be thicker that needed and would have to thin it down. I am sure Jeff can turn out a much better product, as some of the pro mod stuff is out of scale.

Hey Terry, no one said you didn't know about the distributor placement. Dave was actually informing those of us that don't know how it works. I am pointing the finger directly at myself here!

Man that is a bummer! I guess I will have to put in a large order now for the 1/25th stuff and then another order for the 1/16th stuff when finished.

Sure we can take it off into a PM or discuss here since this is about Diecast, either way!

Nice start, I hope you have done some dry fitting on your chassis to the body or you may be a little upset the further you get. I am hearing that these chassis are not set up at the proper Ride Height with the wheels and the body on. Most are finding they are having to drop the rear axle mount and cut some of the top Roll Cage down to fit. This way the body will set where it looks scale to the real car.

Jack, very cool build! MAS has changed hands a couple times now.... Don't get me wrong MAS has some nice stuff, but their PE wheels are not the base for accuracy. If you want something that looking like the real thing in 1/16. You should read up on some of the guys posts that are lacing their own wheels either from styrene or scale diameter size SS rod or Aluminum or Brass rod... They look a thousand times more realistic then any 2D PE part could come out after layering the spokes together.

LOL... what like this? I started with 3 of the Maisto 1/18 62 Bel Air Pro Rods and ended up with two cars. My Custom 62 Bel Air 2 door wagon with single pane back glass as my puller and a 62 Pro Touring car... it has been over 5 yrs in the making because I stopped building and boxed it up in its acrylic case and forgot about it. It just needs to be detailed to high heaven. My plans are a Viper V10 in the Wagon and a Blown 572 in the Pro touring car. Working tailgate on the wagon. Here it is painted, I decided to do it up with the exact same colors that Boyd Coddington used on that 61 or 62 bubble top he did. When I lived in Denver Colorado, I went to the same paint shop and asked for the same colors. This is why, when I hear someone say that Diecast is not a Model, I have to beg to differ with them because they are way off Base! Here is my 1/64th set that I built first from 5 Hotwheels to just make 2 cars.

I just found this awesome site, and it even had dimensions of this car if you want it to be spot on.... Use as needed. http://vfnfiberglass.com/site.htm Click on the 2012 Camaro and scroll to the bottom, where the Pro Mod parts are and it has this Hand Drawn photo

Looks good, and I must say nice touch on opening up those vents. Probably something some wouldn't take the time to do! Keep them progress pics coming!

Looks pretty darn cool Jeff! Here are some photo's I pulled really quick, to get you back to that 45" really if anything you just need to pull your Chin back because they are pretty much straight up and down. It looks like the prelim photos of your car your top is cut to short, vs. the way these are set up. A suggestion may be to Sag that back end down some more and that will reduce your wedge some as well. And I think, not sure I would have to spend more time but that darn back window looks laid down. This Camaro is one heck of a modified Ride.... so I commend you, on taking this thing on full fledged. With one nice start... I always cringe when I cut into a body, because that is the point of no return! Now keep in mind these are NHRA Pro Mod's so the wheelbase is only 100" vs. if they were going to be ADRL, I am sure they would be pulling them out to the 115" wheelbase Max number. Keep up the Awesome work, and excited to get your work to the point where you can possibly do some 3D modelling I will have to keep an eye out for that! Keep them progress pics coming!

Ken by chance do you have another picture of that car with better rendering of the back. Because to me it looks like it drops down, instead of adding that extra piece on to make the back window smaller. The reason why I say this, is looking at the rear sides of the window section, the lighter pieces on each side look like it makes it go downward from where the actual trunk lid would have been. But this could be an optical illusion, not sure.

Oh... Oh... sounds like you have been infected by the the TDR bug! Now the excitement of the new parts and that dreaded wait to get them in your hands.. ROM you will be pleasantly surprised when you get the parts, they have great detail and well worth every penny due to the fact that they are 100% Scale... not like some of the Resin parts I have found to be out of scale.

Yep What Rob said! Beautiful work!..... I need to get to work on mine and stop bouncing back and forth on my Corvette Body. Just waiting on some more parts from TDR.

Oh Come on Chris, I thought I talked you into making them functional! you are no fun at all...

I say you should have what you need from two of the top guys here that use some aspect or all of the sportsman chassis. If anyone can do it, it is definitely Tyrone and Brett.... I really like Brett's Chevelle, that is one mean GREEN Machine!

Wow thanks for that bit of info Dave, I have always wondered how they worked being mounted in a vertical position like that about even with the top of the block.