eviltwincustoms

Yep then you are good. a scale 2" behind the front wheel and in front it will need to be 3". I will have to check out harbor freight then.

Very cool Joe... Question did you change out the springs or are those the new springs from Jim? My other question since you are asking about ride height.. What are your measurements? Then I can tell you if you are good or not.

Interesting... That poor gremlin is going to get some steroids it looks like! I agree, step int any of the bigger scales that will give you a challenge.

Cool little idea you have their... Only issue I see is the hinge is suppose to be in front of the build out of your door panel not on it. You need to put your hinge off of the chassis further forward. If you make that minor adjustment you should be fine.

Very cool looking flopper.... would really like to see better pictures of it.

Looking good, and that Candy Red and Blue stripes are going to set if off!

That's right, much nicer aftermarket wheels that are not OEM... LOL you couldn't get me to pay $250 for a factory wheel when I can spend a bit more and get something 10s' better. But to each their own, those that don't know better will always spend their money foolishly.

Thanks Dave for the feedback, I really appreciate the feedback you have been providing! My intentions are to get this thing as close to the real thing as possible.... As long as my skills will let it happen. lol.. I never gave it much thought but getting re-popped, but it would be cool to have it cast. I wouldn't have to worry about it as the body ages.

Here is a small update after going back and completely taking things back apart. Since the first mod of just extending the front fenders was WAY OFF! I had to take it apart and follow the more extensive way of just doing an accurate reproduction of the 63 Vette. So after extending the Doors and going back and reducing the extension of the front fenders I am now sitting at 115" wheelbase and I have to say it looks much better with the changes. I have made some slight changes to the body thus far in addition to extending it. Rear fenders have been opened up for tires to fit, started to mold the rear fender well, so the tire will sit in its resting place. Also made a slight change in the trailing end of the passengers side window and adjusting the doorline. Next is to address the A-Pillar by laying them back and bringing the top down to be more Horizontal to the main plane and not slope back as much. Then address the front fender in front of the front wheel.

That is a mean paint scheme..... I say go for it! What decals are you asking to have made, the decal on the back quarter panel? The graphic is probably one of the easier to pull off since it is only 3 main colors. Start out with laying down the white and fade in the blue on the nose and goes solid Blue from the wheel well back. Then mask off over top of the fade and finish out with something like HOK Sunset or Sunrise Orange and Bang, you will have an outstanding paint job.

Greg, any updates on this master piece.... I would love to see what progress you have made.

Nice job on the door ROM... getting those things thinned down is a chore in itself! Anxious to see how you do up that door panel.

Looks pretty darn cool with the update to the header tubes! Not sure if they are in their final resting place and mounted to the bends, but the vertical part of the tubes looks to throw it off. I really good reference I am going to use Dave's pic. These headers run diagonally back, I think this might help alleviate that large offset (the flat part after your first bend, shorten this up some possibly?) then lay your main part diagonally you should be fine.

Thanks Guys for the complements and checking in on my New Build progress. Well needless to say I have removed the front clip and Thanks to Dave (Comp1839), he has set me straight and now I am down the road to an extensive "Accurate Reproduction" of the 63 Pro Mod Corvette (The way it should have been done in the first place. LOL.. ). If I am going to go to this much trouble, I might as well do it right. In less than three day's I think I have learned a crash course in 1:1 Pro Mod body modification and what exactly goes into stretching these Vette bodies out to the 115" wheelbase that most are running these days. Like the old adage goes, Measure twice and cut once... Well I think I have measured 5X's that in every direction, that I have numbers running out my ears just to make sure I am scaling this thing out to be as accurate as possible. You realize Chris, that once your Funny Car goes to the side and you start working on the Pro Mod. That will be it! You will be hooked. Hey Niko, I use to like the smaller scale a lot better as well due to more parts and bodies to choose from. However... this is the BIG "BUT".. The larger 1/16 and up, is such a great challenge, it may be easier to see, but you have more room for details that the smaller scale doesn't lend itself to. In addition to that, the larger scale is more like working with 1:1. I have found this out first hand with this build. I can't just extend the nose on my Vette, like I could have done in 1/25th scale and still look right. I have to do much more to my car, and I will point those things out in this thread as I go. Rick (pharr7226), Thanks for the complement, I really appreciate it because the positive reinforcement will keep me focused on this new side project. Actually at this current stage, I have updated pictures just need to get them posted. But I have removed the nose, due to other modifications I have to make before getting to the front of the car. I will try and get my latest pic's up for everyone!

I really like the RED Paint! 3 coats of clear should be a nice base to really rub that out and have an awesome polished shine, if it hasn't been done. I gotta ask, what technique did you use to get the vents into the front fenders? Nice touch.

Interesting, I have been thinking about buying those elbows as well for a Turbo or supercharger build. I know my Hobby shop doesn't carry them, did you do a special order directly from Plastruct? If you don't mind me asking Derrek, what is the wheelbase of your car, out of curiosity? I don't recall seeing the other part of of your chassis, but can you move your front wheel forward if you are under the 115" Max wheelbase, to remove that bend in the headers? Or possibly your firewall is to far forward causing you the grief with your headers.

Gotta love the dealerships, they will charge you an arm and a leg for wheels. I wouldn't have paid that kinda money for stock optional rims. I really like the color of the plumb crazy, great job on the detail of the under carriage and the engine. If it is a super bee, it needs the rear quarter decal. Not quite sure the wheel and tire combo is right. It looks like a 65 or 70 series tire.

I agree with Chris, nice job on the wishbone. I admire you using brass and giving soldering a go.

Man, I might have to crack open my wallet a little wider and dig deeper to come up with money for a Sherline Lathe, so I can try and spit some of these parts out on my own.

Chassie tubs - You need to build these yourself! Go to the "How to" Section and do some searching. Some use Pill bottles or you can look at "FutureAttractions" How to he just posted up.... Let's make sure to use your tools! Engines - You need to be much more specific as to what you are looking for. Pro Mods, most will use the Pro Sportsman motors out of the current kits or a Ross Gibson Engine. If you are looking for something like a 572, there is a site that has some really nice Resin kits. Wheels - Again.... more specific. I flunked Mind Reading and couldn't graduate past reading facial expressions! LOL as for wheels, we need to know what you are building. Pro Mod, 10.5 car what type of wheels are you looking for? This will help us point you in the right direction. Again, those like Tyrone uses the new Hawaiian flopper front and rear wheels and tires. Others use the Pro Track Aluminum Drag Slot Car wheels with kit bashing tires off of one of the Sportsman cars to fit. Even the websites listed just after you posted has resin 1/24 and 1/25 scale drag wheels and tires. Help us Help you, buy being a little more detailed in what you are looking for. Not only will this help us in pointing you in the right direction, it will help you in getting a much more educated response from us.

Dave curious, what is the overall length of the Camaro in 1/8th scale?

Thanks Joe, the only thing that I see is just the picture of the shocks (Week 33). You are right, the shocks should mount Vertically, sorry if I confused things. My question is more around the mounting of the 4Link bracket to the axle housing and the picture doesn't show it very well. I want to say I recall seeing pictures of it clocked forward, but this would make the lower links longer and the top ones shorter. I think you said they should be the same length? Right now the issue I see with your rear end, and mine as well if mounted this way would be the shock body hitting the 4link bracket before it would mount up with the bottom hole mount that you have a bolt through. So by clocking the bracket forward the shock body will miss the bracket and mount up like it should. Unless...... here is the "BUT", unless I am way off and the shock doesn't mount where I am thinking it should. Then this would solve my dilemma. Hummmmm...

Cool idea for someone that doesn't have an airbrush. But I wouldn't pay that much especially for their 2 part spray can set up for clear. Way to expensive, and once you puncture the bottom to mix the catalyst/hardner you only have a certain amount of time before the can is rendered useless. If you already spray Automotive paints and 2 part Auto Clear, my suggestion would be to go with House of Kolor's Kosmic Krome. 2oz bottle is $24.95 expensive for the small amount. But much cheaper, unless you don't have the Clear, Reducer and Catalyst to then go over it.

I am stoked, got money burning a hole in my pocket! I guess the deciding factor will be what scale? Dave is the body made from the White Strong Flexible Material, wondering if you have to seal it off with something like Superglue or something so it isn't course before primer?

Thanks Chris, I hope it turns out as well as the images in my head and the reference pictures I have. That is my problem... I hate body work like others on here but yet always find myself diving in head first in territory I dislike the most! LOL I am telling ya... you really need to get started on a Pro Mod build.. how about you go on a hiatus with your FED and Army build? I appreciate the nice complement Niko! You do some pretty outstanding work yourself! Especially in the smaller scale, my eyes don't seem to be as good as they use to. I think they are telling me, they appreciate me working on bigger subjects so they don't have to strain as much any more.... I use to build Custom 1/64 Diecast, maybe that is what caused my eye sight to not be like it use to. Thanks Joe (prostreet), I really like the 63 Corvette probably because of the Split windows... they are just a cool body style. I thought I would post a quick Update for everyone, since work is slowing down as I wrap up the week. Made some progress in getting my wheelbase set up. Of course you need a gratuitous shot of the body with wheels under it right? Keep in mind the rear fenders will be redone to get the wheel in its natural resting place. She now sits at 112" center to center, next up is cutting the front nose off and segmenting it to get my 45" to center of front wheel hub. Oh one other thing... Should I go Blown Supercharger, Turbo or Belt or Crank mounted Super Charger to be different?