1320wayne

Rob I can't really answer what's going on with Chris. I spoke to him a couple of weeks ago and he is going through some personal and family health issues that is keeping him from staying involved and focused on the resin business. I sent him five bodies to do and at this point he is waiting until the new year to decide if he is going to continue or call it quits or maybe even take a long break from it all. I am in the same boat as everyone else that is wondering and will simply have to wait.

Greg, first you need to make sure that your printer settings are on the highest print quality. That is something you will find in your printer program. Second, if you are printing out test sheets on regular print paper then the images will look a bit dull or flat. Once you print them out onto decal film they should take on a crisper and shinier appearance. Although, the overall quality of decal film matters as well. I have some white decal paper that I bought off Ebay that came from China that printed flat but took on a shine once I added the clear coat.

Yeah, that is an amazing finish. Cleanly built and detailed model as well.

That's really looking sharp Brad.

Looks good Brett. The stance is right there also.

Just a good point of interest for all. I went into my local hobby/diecast collectible store two days ago to follow up on when they were going to start receiving the mag. as I put them onto the publisher to start carrying it going forward. Well, the owners wife made a call to Golden Bell while I was standing there and was told that they didn't realize that they wanted to start with the October issue (which they are now sending out) but was fully prepared to start sending them the November issue, which was going to print that day. So, it would appear that the next issue should be ready to go a short time after the October issue.

I'm pretty sure that anyone has the ability to do this, if you have a printer hooked up to your computer. No fancy or costly graphics programs, not that they're not worth it, I just don't have the extra money to invest. This is as simple as finding the images you want, (the easiest way I have found is to simply access Google and type in "whatever, logo images" and that should access a seperate listing for the title image and countless images to access and save) save them to a folder in your computer, once you're set with enough images open a Word document, and start exporting the images into the document. Once you open a Word document size your margins to where you want them ( I use the full page) and starting at the top left of the page access the insert link at the top of your screeen, access the file where your images are stored and click on each image, one at a time and that will insert them into the document. Once you have inserted the document it will transfer as the size that you saved the image; and then you simply click on the image which will now outline the image with a box. Place your curser over any of the corners of the box, left click and hold and resize the image to what you want. If you then want multiples of that image then all you have to do from there is to continue to click on your resized image, right click and copy/paste the next image at the same size. It takes some time at playing with this to get good at laying out an entire page. I've been messing around with this for more than a year now and I'm still learning little tricks to help get a better layout. Once you have a page suitable for printing you simply ensure that your printer settings are the highest for color and clarity, insert a blank decal sheet and print. Be careful not to touch any of the printed image on your finished sheet right out of the printer as the ink will be wet and will smudge easily. I would wait at least 10 minutes before handling and still be careful from there not to leave finger prints or smudges on your images. After a day or so I spray each sheet with clear lacquer and once that dries you're ready to apply your own custom decals. Mind you, this is not any kind of professional decal application as you can only print onto either clear or white decal film. The images printed onto clear film will only show on lighter painted surfaces and the images printed onto white film will need to be trimmed right up to the edge of the image. Sometimes printing onto white is not feasible for the image(s) you have. Hopefully this wasn't too long winded and helps anyone understand how they can do this for themselves.

Andy, I didn't post these for you or anyone to print out. This is my work. I posted to show you what you can do. Besides, I reduced the size of the image so if you do print them out the clarity won't be the greatest.

O.K. Tyrone, thought I would help you out with an idea for a paint scheme. I know that you tend to lean towards just a basic one color scheme for most of your builds (which is cool) but I was looking at this mockup and for some reason the following came to mind. The car looks good in white, albeit a brighter painted white than what is seen here in resin. Paint the body some form of bright white but with some mild graphics added to it. To contrast, the hood could be a bright blue to set it off from the rest of the car. And, this image below could be added to the hood along with a string of matching skulls running along the rocker panels, and even around the front valence and lower rear area as well. Ultimately it's your build to create your own paint scheme but I thought I'd throw this idea out there. If you like I can put it all together on a sheet for you.

Here are two new decal sheets that I just created. Just wanted to show you what you can do with a simple inkjet printer and a little time.

Yeah, another Tyrone build.

Wow! Amazing paint job. It looks absolutely flawless.

Looks great Tyrone. You now have the total package for superb builds with the finish work greatly improved. Can't wait to see more.

Very nicely done Mark. You are a man of mystery when it comes to model building. Never realized you were into these style of builds.

Excellent way to finish this one Tyrone. This came out great. Love all the details and the final finish is definitely your best yet.

I am by no means a master at this but here is what I do. Heat the mold in the microwave before pouring the resin. Sprinkle the powder onto the mold and shake off the excess. Apply the resin to the mold using a syringe (minus the needle) this allows you to get resin into hard to reach places. Use toothpicks to pop any known air bubbles before the resin sets up. Sand the end of the toothpicks flat or else the sharp end could eventually damage your mold. And a couple of best practices that will help you to keep from wasting valuable resin. If you are pouring a deeper one piece mold you can try to pour the piece in segments. Also, after your piece sets up and you think it's ready to pop out of the mold pry the mold open first and check to see if the part is fully poured. This works really good with wheels to check to see if the top edge of the wheel poured successfully. If you see that the part didn't fully cast then pour some extra resin from a new batch into the mold to finish the piece. So far I have never had any issues with new resin attaching to semi cured resin. Hope this helps.

That article says nothing about Al-Anabi pulling out.

Throw Reliable out of the equation and then flip a coin between Comp resins and Speed City. You would be fine with either of them.

It is the back half of a resin chassis for an AWB piece.

I purchase all of my Pro Track wheels from Ebay. Two different users who are quality sellers. Mickeyvegas and Fast Eddie (user names). All of their wheels come with tires but are most likely o-rings for the fronts and sponge tires for the rears. They all go in the trash.

Thanks guys for the comments. Charlie, I intended on using your Demon carbs. on this one but I ran out and couldn't get an order in to you on time. I did pick up a few this past weekend in Atlanta from Mike Dowd but I still need to get you a decent order for supplies.

Thanks guys. More Super Stocks to come like Darryl said. Plenty of decals for more projects.

This project is looking great, Brett. I'm really digging the look of the red rollbar padding. Looks very real.

And then, low and behold, this one is complete. I'm not 100% pleased with the final outcome as I did rush the final steps on this one just a bit so I could have it complete to bring with me to Atlanta. However, I learned a lot about this kit and it's little difficulties with the final fit so the outcome of the next one will be just a bit different. Thanks for looking.

Well, the final updates to this one. The dash is done and installed. I scratchbuilt an onboard digital computer for the dash as well as added parts box pedals with photo-etched tops for the pedals. And, the batteries are wired and the final details for the engine are complete.